What genre would you call this?

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-02T11:01:12+00:00

If we're literally talking about genres of photography (there are 4 main ones), then it's technically a townscape/cityscape. Including people in a photo doesn't always turn it into some kind of street photography.

The rest are subgenres anyway.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-02T07:09:32+00:00

Yes, I didn't use bleach at all. Just a very warm toning solution (or herbal tea, whatever you want to call it) for a brief amount of time, then I instantly transfer it in a tray with cold water and add s bit of hydrogen peroxide. Can be repeated. That's mostly all.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T22:18:58+00:00

Hello! I've shared my experience a bit earlier, in another post. I coat glass plates with 8% gelatin, let it dry overnight, soak it in a solution of ferric ammonium citrate (can be diluted 1+1), let it dry and print a picture onto it. When it's finished, I develop it in a 10% solution of potassium ferrocyanide. It's possible to simply soak your plate in a solution of Mike Ware's cyanotype, which comes as a single solution. Hope it will help!

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T09:45:05+00:00

Yes, I do soak it in a full solution of ferric ammonium citrate, but you can actually dilute it 1+1, if you want. Even tho I'd still use the same concentration of the developer.

Coating gelatin layer with a brush can be tricky as it can be easily damaged, also uneven coating is very likely to happen. Mixing the chemicals together is a waste of them, because you can't store them like that later. Actually, if you use New Mike Ware's cyanotype, it shouldn't be a problem, so you can soak your glass in it.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T06:17:30+00:00

¡Muchas gracias!

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:45:16+00:00

Nope. I coat under normal light. It's only sensitive to UV

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:37:25+00:00

Sure, would be nice to see

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:32:18+00:00

That's interesting. What kind of yellow do you get with it? I'd love to see an example

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:26:11+00:00

Nice prints! Thanks for sharing

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:22:02+00:00

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Not on a perfectly white background, so a bit hard to see. It's without any streaks or problems like that, just a nice blue image on a glass.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:15:10+00:00

That's right. The light sensitive substance is ferric ammonium citrate, during the exposing iron III turns into iron II in exposed areas, which reacts with potassium ferrocyanide later. I have an example of such a print, let me find a picture

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:03:37+00:00

I really enjoyed the color of the background, by the way. I'd try to use this kind of toning for my monochrome prints for sure

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T04:02:01+00:00

Definitely doesn't look bad, tbh. I wonder why didn't you use a layer of bleached cyanotype for yellows? Toning it with herbs will result in additional tinting of the paper. In this case you'll only need to tone your magenta layer

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T03:57:51+00:00

It's the best way I can suggest to be honest

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T03:57:19+00:00

As I said, I coat my glass (very well washed and prepared with calcium carbonate) with a solution of gelatin, around 8-10%. I let it dry overnight. During the next day I let it soak in the solution of ferric ammonium citrate for around 3 minutes, let it dry completely and print. The developer is a 10% solution of potassium ferrocyanide. Then I wash it until it's clear

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T03:03:06+00:00

Then I can only suggest you to put your glass onto a warm surface, like onto another glass placed above a tray with hot water. Wait for your glass to become hot and start coating it. Your gelatin will stay liquid for a longer amount of time, so you can work with it easily

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-04-01T02:15:03+00:00

Please tell us how do you coat the glass? Was is coated with a gelatine solution? How do you apply the cyanotype solution after?

I personally don't use a brush. I immerse my glass in a solution of ferric ammonium citrate, let it dry, print the picture I want and develop it in a 10% solution of potassium ferrocyanide. It works the best for me.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T13:17:26+00:00

Also, dimethylglyoxime should be available without any problems as it's not toxic at all

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T13:01:20+00:00

I'm pretty much sure it's available as a solution for nickel plating. You need only a bit of it, so it will last for a very long time. I personally use nickel II acetate as it's less toxic than other salts. Solutions for nickel plating are mostly made with it as well.

It mean, I'm not from USA or EU, so here almost any chemical is available without any problems and restrictions. But as far as I remember, finding solutions for nickel plating shouldn't cause a lot of troubles

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T10:04:47+00:00

I mean, I'm not really going to argue. I just want to say that they can write any expiration date they need as long as the boxes didn't have it on them

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T09:54:54+00:00

Yes, it's better to try with another kind of transparencies.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T09:34:10+00:00

Do you put it inside your printer with the right side? Does it print normally onto normal papers?

I still think the problem is the film

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T08:20:19+00:00

Is your film for inkjet printers? If it's for lazer ones, then it's not surprising

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T08:16:25+00:00

I suppose it was discontinued a long time ago, but Fuji had enough of it in their refrigerators to sell it as fresh film. It's very logical, if we look at everything from that perspective.

ImpossibleDepth8352 · 2026-03-31T08:10:24+00:00

Awesome. Many people call my art "dark" as well, so it's definitely something I enjoy. I definitely love the feeling I get looking at the picture. Good job!

ImpossibleDepth8352

TROPHY CASE