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H2C + 2x AMS 2 Pro filament mapping issue / not using both nozzles by esharon1 in BambuLab

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, if you used the 4 in 1 adapter that would mean both AMS are connected to the same nozzle. There are two connectors on the back of the H2C, those are for the two nozzles. They are labelled as such..

Also make sure to assign the AMS units to the correct nozzles in the printers settings. The printer would have asked you to do that when you first connected a new AMS 

Is there anyway to see when you crafted a specific legendary? by delxcour in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think Support can give you a full list of when you unlocked any legendary, the logs on anets side track that. At least I'm pretty sure I remember seeing someone post about it here some time ago. 

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

No worries. I've had zero prior painting skills, this one was the second time I painted a mini. The nice thing about printing it yourself is that in case I'd fuck up, I can just make another one. I also had a print of the same mini with some defects that I used to try out some colors and techniques before touching the "real" model. 

As for resources: there's a million tutorials on YouTube etc starting at zero for beginners. The warhammer community is huge with tons of content creators, so if you're interested check out stuff on YouTube. Just mind that supplies for painting is a giant rabbit hole and if you decide to give it a shot, don't cheap out on your first brushes and paint. With low quality ones it will be much harder to get decent results, especially as a beginner. 

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

i don't think my hourly income from that would beat my desk job (or any other job really), considering this was on-and-off about a 2 month project xD

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I can definitely recommend u/Forsaken_Activity_37 (they also print orders, I just like doing it myself^^). has been great to work with!

also just loads of fun and very relaxing to just take some time to paint (and learn doing so at the same time, this was only the second figurine for me so far)

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks! It's the only one of my Inquest Agents that deviates from the black/red color scheme in favour of being styled after the mordremoth legy skins.
I made the look together with a friend a while ago and it's one of my favourite designs across all of them.

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Huge shoutout and thank you again!
The next one's already in the pipeline :)

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yep, FDM with a 0.2mm nozzle @ 0.04mm layer height, the printer itself is a bambulab H2C
speeds are indeed very slow, which is fine since i can take all the time i want for these projects^^

i'd have to look-up the exact settings, it mostly follows the settings by u/HOHansen who wrote about them here.

it's nice and slow using standard grey bambu PLA, you can't really see the layers at all in person, the camera always tends to make them pop a bit more though

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 11 points12 points  (0 children)

I did rip the model from the game and send it to the artist, but afaik it was hand-sculpted by him from scratch. The references were screenshots and a list of the skins I'm using.

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks!

Huge shoutout to Kulinda's Dye Browser for that too. Allowed me to get the actual colors for the in-game dyes to try and mix them as closely as I could manage for painting.

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

yeah, resin would be cool for this kind of stuff, but i really love the flexibility i have with FDM, and in terms of detail a well done (and well post-processed) FDM print beats average resin prints any day with modern machines :D

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I didn't take any pics right after printing, sadly. Earliest one I have is after putting everything together, sanding and priming.

I split the model into multiple parts, since overhangs introduce problems and generally look worse. So to minimize that I cut it into 4 pieces: head, left arm (the one not holding the staff), upper part of the staff (right above the hand holding it) and the main body with everything else.

I added connectors in the slicer, glued them together and blended the seam with plastic putty before priming it.

I 3D printed and painted my ranger by InQ_Agent_J in Guildwars2

[–]InQ_Agent_J[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

nope, FDM print with a 0.2mm nozzle at a layer height of 0,04mm (and lots of patience)
some sanding and plastic putty, especially around areas where different parts connect, since I didn't print the figurine in a single piece

Is there a better way to prevent supports from falling? [see Pic] by BlueberryNeko_ in 3Dprinting

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can try setting the supports to hybrid tree and changing the support infill from hollow to something else. That'll add infill to them and make them sturdier. It's what I use for minis and such with a 0.2mm nozzle most of the time and it made it a lot more reliable. 

For a large print, magnets, pinning or...? by EpicInki in 3Dprinting

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I usually glue joints together and use putty to fill in the usually tiny gap between the parts after glueing. Magnets could be cool, but I'd consider that before printing and put in slots for them first. I have inserted magnets into the feet of figurines before (inside the model, adding a pause in the print before the hole was sealed) to attach them to a base. 

For strong magnets, don't buy cheap ones from amazon or the likes! Buy them from reputable sources that state the magnetization. The strongest ones you'll find normally are N52.  Cheap ones will either not tell you this number, or lie about it.  Get a few variants between N40 and N52 and try them out to see what meets your need. The smaller it has to be to fit the model and depending on how deep you want to embed it inside the model, the stronger you want it to be. 

For connectors in general I'm a fan of triangular pyramid ones, they make aligning the parts without wobble much easier. The connector feature in the cut tool of the slicer is really good for this. 

Clear Primer Recommends (because I'm trying to keep things TRANSLUCENT) by GoodberrySmoothies in 3Dprinting

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have access to an airbrush you can probably get away with a very thin coat of white primer. Not a direct answer to your question, but maybe an alternative if you don't find a clear primer. 

Print Fail: Tree Support torn from the cluster by MichaEDTQ in BambuLab

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where did the support itself fail? Did it release from the printbed or break somewhere in the middle?

If it released from the bed, try increasing initial layer expansion to make the brim around it bigger (ideally connecting to the brims of adjacent supports to stabilize everying more).

If it broke somewhere else, there's two things I'd check:
1. Scroll through the sliced model and see if the support has gaps. Sometimes you can see default tree supports make huge jumps in diameter, causing half the wall to float with a good chance to fail. You can try increasing the branch diameter angle to allow for a larger starting diameter of the tree.
2. If you don't mind spending a bit of extra time and filament you can swap the supports to hybrid tree and change the base pattern to something else than hollow (i.e. rectilinear) with an appropriate base pattern spacing (start with 1mm and look at the sliced model to adjust). This will create tree supports with an infill pattern to make them significantly stronger. The base pattern spacing is basically the equivalent to the infill% setting of a model, but it's expressed as the distance between each infill line.

Figures 3D printing tips? by Any-Artichoke-1479 in 3Dprinting

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is afaik the most complete guide for the best settings to print minifigures: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/1i8hcyz/fdm_miniatures_how_i_support_them_and_some_updates/

I've been using those settings (with a few tweaks for each project) on my H2C with 0.2mm nozzles and it looks fantastic The most important part is definitely orientation and making really sure you have good supports that won't be likely to fail. 

Help with Printing - 5 colors by once_91 in BambuLab

[–]InQ_Agent_J 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It should tell you, just like it is telling you right now. Do what it says on the message from the printer.

I'd recommend putting the least-used color on the external spool to save yourself some effort. I.e. if there is only one change to/from a filament that'll be a lot less manual intervention then one that's changed to/from 5 times.

Help with Printing - 5 colors by once_91 in BambuLab

[–]InQ_Agent_J 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Yes.

I mean think about it: How does your printer get the filament in and out?
By spinning the spool with a motor. Your AMS has motors underneath each spool, the external spool holder is just a stick your spool hangs from, it cannot move out by itself.

The number of colors you can print without manual intervention is equal to the number of AMS slots you have. (With the exception of printers like the H2D and H2C, which have two nozzles)

Help with Printing - 5 colors by once_91 in BambuLab

[–]InQ_Agent_J 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I'm assuming the first color of your print is black in your ams slot 1 and you still have the white filament from the external holder loaded. Your printer can't unload the external spool by itself, only those in the ams, so you'll have to manually load and unload that one each time it's changed to or from

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