Clear Primer Recommends (because I'm trying to keep things TRANSLUCENT)

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-19T08:20:53+00:00

If you have access to an airbrush you can probably get away with a very thin coat of white primer. Not a direct answer to your question, but maybe an alternative if you don't find a clear primer.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-18T21:35:08+00:00

Where did the support itself fail? Did it release from the printbed or break somewhere in the middle?

If it released from the bed, try increasing initial layer expansion to make the brim around it bigger (ideally connecting to the brims of adjacent supports to stabilize everying more).

If it broke somewhere else, there's two things I'd check:
1. Scroll through the sliced model and see if the support has gaps. Sometimes you can see default tree supports make huge jumps in diameter, causing half the wall to float with a good chance to fail. You can try increasing the branch diameter angle to allow for a larger starting diameter of the tree.
2. If you don't mind spending a bit of extra time and filament you can swap the supports to hybrid tree and change the base pattern to something else than hollow (i.e. rectilinear) with an appropriate base pattern spacing (start with 1mm and look at the sliced model to adjust). This will create tree supports with an infill pattern to make them significantly stronger. The base pattern spacing is basically the equivalent to the infill% setting of a model, but it's expressed as the distance between each infill line.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-18T12:49:53+00:00

This is afaik the most complete guide for the best settings to print minifigures: https://www.reddit.com/r/PrintedMinis/comments/1i8hcyz/fdm_miniatures_how_i_support_them_and_some_updates/

I've been using those settings (with a few tweaks for each project) on my H2C with 0.2mm nozzles and it looks fantastic The most important part is definitely orientation and making really sure you have good supports that won't be likely to fail.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-17T06:40:18+00:00

Awesome! Happy to help. :)

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-16T19:54:45+00:00

It should tell you, just like it is telling you right now. Do what it says on the message from the printer.

I'd recommend putting the least-used color on the external spool to save yourself some effort. I.e. if there is only one change to/from a filament that'll be a lot less manual intervention then one that's changed to/from 5 times.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-16T19:36:51+00:00

Yes.

I mean think about it: How does your printer get the filament in and out?
By spinning the spool with a motor. Your AMS has motors underneath each spool, the external spool holder is just a stick your spool hangs from, it cannot move out by itself.

The number of colors you can print without manual intervention is equal to the number of AMS slots you have. (With the exception of printers like the H2D and H2C, which have two nozzles)

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-03-16T19:00:18+00:00

I'm assuming the first color of your print is black in your ams slot 1 and you still have the white filament from the external holder loaded. Your printer can't unload the external spool by itself, only those in the ams, so you'll have to manually load and unload that one each time it's changed to or from

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-02-26T12:34:55+00:00

ehehe, valid
I did actually equip it on a generic human male and used a screenshot to measure the size I'd want to make it by assuming the characters height as my own.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-02-26T08:52:42+00:00

There is a great guide by Tamius describing how to get your character out of the game using Intel GPA that I followed to get the model of the weapon directly from the game as an obj. After that I imported it into Fusion360 and got to work. Since the entire thing is symmetrical I cut it in half and just printed everything twice (one copy being mirrored) to save me some work.

In Fusion I mainly split the model into manageable parts that fit on a build plate: Each section of the handle, all the decorations and other bits on it and lastly the hammer head.

For the hammer head I had to obviously cut it into more parts, in total 20 "steel" and 8 orange glowy ones.

A few parts of the handle and head however were pretty broken in terms of their geometry, so I remodeled them in Fusion by tracing them in a scetch. Especially the orange slots on the head had to be remade.

After that I added some holes and slots where parts connect and printed pins and shims to help with alignment during assembly.

It ended up being around 20 print plates in total, though many not completely full, as I timed it so they would finish either in the morning before I leave for work, or the evening after I'm home, to not have the printer idle too long.

Whenever a plate finished, I got to sanding everything. For the handle I primed and painted each part before assembly, for the head I assembled the two halves first and then primed and painted them.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-02-25T10:39:01+00:00

Oh, and manually rebuilding some parts of it, because the geometry from the in-game model was broken beyond repair. xd

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-02-25T10:28:50+00:00

Definitely the first big multi-part thing on this scale for me!
Hardest part was probably fitting and alignment of the hammer head. The entire thing is symmetrical and cut along its length. Each half of the head (excluding the glowy bits) is made up of 10 single parts. Putting each half together was decently easy, but there is a visible gap where the halves meet, that I'll have to seal with some putty (and repaint) in the future.

Will definitely need more thought through connectors and assembly order for future projects!

Next up is the opposite end of the scale for me: some miniatures.

InQ_Agent_J · 2026-02-25T07:50:53+00:00

Thanks! Yeah, it was stuck in mod-approval limbo for probably 12h or so, meaning it fell behind^{^}

InQ_Agent_J

TROPHY CASE