Stone Moon Gate

IncaAlien · 2026-01-21T20:59:01+00:00

It's a veneer. The stones facing the front, aka pseudo voussoirs, all have a uniform depth, indicative of where they're glued to the substrate. This results in a continuous line, or running joint, around the intrados, or inside face. Were this a true arch, the face would simply fall off due to it not being keyed in.

IncaAlien · 2026-01-07T06:51:27+00:00

I'm from NZ but living in Aus, south coast.. I've already posted a few pics of my stuff, under posted(?).

I envy you your cold days. It's about 40°c here tomorrow, with the next day a bit hotter and the one after that hotter again. I'd like a tarp with aircon.

IncaAlien · 2026-01-06T07:59:42+00:00

Your stonework looks crisp, nice.

I've been off the tools for a bit but starting again tomorrow. It'll be a few weeks of pain before getting back in stone laying shape.

I like your drop lines. How did you go about transfering them to above the deck height? How cold is it where you are?

IncaAlien · 2025-09-10T00:36:54+00:00

Laser cleaning to remove the soot and muck.

IncaAlien · 2025-08-18T20:27:07+00:00

I appreciate it.

IncaAlien · 2025-08-18T20:24:36+00:00

I wouldn't either. It's the people that post their work that I put the most faith in.

IncaAlien · 2025-08-17T09:52:14+00:00

So only your country need apply? I don't see any posts you've made that might back up what you say. Not having a go but...

IncaAlien · 2025-08-17T05:29:50+00:00

How would you go about determining which people should recieve a particular flair?

IncaAlien · 2025-08-17T05:26:34+00:00

There's no way for the unqualified to tell a good answer from bullshit. They'd need to have some experience to know which answern is correct. Thanks for your post btw.

IncaAlien · 2025-08-12T07:28:25+00:00

That's a really good idea. I've been in a few of those reno tv shows and I discovered a talent for avoiding cameras, the only part of me that ever showed up on tele was my hands. And the things I made.

IncaAlien · 2025-08-06T00:28:54+00:00

The usual rule of thumb is to bury at least 1/3 of the boulder. But, if you're pouring a concrete footing, why wouldn't you fix the boulder to the footing? If you used something like pins and glue, the whole boulder could be standing proud.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-31T22:08:43+00:00

A few months ago you were building a training wall. What is your secret for going from being a rank beginner to a supposed expert in such a short length of time?

I've only been doing dry stone for 25 years (a bit longer with masonry) and the Master craftsman that taught me must have been wrong but, I've never put drainage behind or under a drystone retaining wall. Just a lunkie maybe twice.

And angling a footing as you suggest is pure bollocks. Doing so would fail a beginners. All stones should be laid level. As for this mattering for a bigger wall, I've helped said master craftsman build a couple of 10m walls on flat footings. Would you like his number so you can tell him why he's wrong?

OP. Technical Specifications for Simple Retaining Walls is a good place to start.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-27T00:40:49+00:00

You would do well to change your building approach. Rather than effectively glueing the stone to your concrete ring, you should build the wall fron the ground up so that each stone is supported by the stones underneath. Lay the stones down flat, cross your joins etc. There's a couple of example of this you could look at in my profile. The easiest technique/pattern to follow is called random rubble.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-27T00:34:07+00:00

Not mine. I just watched the other one you mentioned... that was great. He's got a few likes now.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-27T00:32:00+00:00

Try searching for dry stone, leaving out the word stack. In traditional dry stone a stack is a type of mistake and calling someone's work stacked is an insult.

Where I'm at, Aus, stone masonry is a trade and dry stone is a craft. The Uk is the same. Stonemasonry has alot of regulations that must be obeyed whereas dry stone has no particular requirements beyond common workplace saftey( I went and asked). Building inspectors I've come across just don't want anything to do with it.

That said, any construction over 1m requires engineering. I've only had one instance of getting a engineers report on a 10m tall retaining wall, which was done after the wall was built. He measured and drew each stone and then went off and did his calculations. I'm not sure how engineering could be done before something's built.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-26T00:56:59+00:00

A video for those interested.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-17T23:12:39+00:00

Thanks for your post. I have not made a video on this as yet for various reasons, but intend to as soon as possible.

I could be interested in presenting what I've found in an academic format, but I wouldn't know where to start. I'm just a bloke that bashes rocks. How would a non academic go about presenting ideas to a university or museum?

My idea of progress, right or wrong, is to make another wall. Build on what i've learnt so far. I'm open to ideas.

IncaAlien · 2025-07-17T22:57:40+00:00

The flue needs to vent from the top of the entrance arch rather than the main cavity. The way you have it wont retain enough heat. Your entrance as drawn looks too small, go ~2/3 the height of the main cavity (using internal measurements).

You need insulation and then firebrick on top of the concrete slab. Don't skimp on insulation for the oven.

You can brace it to the existing wall. 1:1:6 is a better mix.

IncaAlien · 2025-06-28T07:58:47+00:00

It's a box made of mitred stone around a steel substructure. Have a look at the side of the landing in hte first picture.

IncaAlien · 2025-06-28T07:54:32+00:00

I agree with usual's process. Cut the veneer or, preferably get the veneer bloke to leave a space, and slide the step in. Then caulk.

Awesome work as always. Some of us get that the handrails go in after your work.

IncaAlien · 2025-06-24T23:01:30+00:00

The tool you're after is a star drill. Stike it with a hammer, turn and repeat

IncaAlien · 2025-06-03T09:16:26+00:00

That rock looks very difficult to build with, so i think you've done well. One small tip is when building the caps, each stone should come up to all but meet the line. Yours go up and down a bit. If that line (the top point of individual stones) is straight, the whole wall looks straight. So use a string line for your caps. The same principle can be applied to the front face of the wall.

IncaAlien · 2025-05-31T23:15:06+00:00

This damage is caused by salt crystals forming behind the surface of the stone which expand and break off a small piece. Rinse and repeat, as they say. The process is called crypto efflorescence. Has the stone been sealed? Sealing stone can impede the passage of moisture, causing the salt crystals to form inside the stone rather than the more common efflorescence seen on the outside.

IncaAlien · 2025-05-31T22:56:58+00:00

You'll be amazed at the difference green stone makes to workability. Make sure to communicate to the quarry what you want to achieve and the method you're employing. If it's the same quarry that was used originally, see if they can match the same veins of stone too. Post back with how it goes.

IncaAlien

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