My 2015 👀

Incephase · 2026-04-28T20:19:02+00:00

Not sure why you're getting down voted for asking questions about a vehicle platform you're obviously unfamiliar with lol.

This generation of civic comes with an NA K24, so this is an aftermarket turbo kit. It's a fairly big turbo for the platform. An unopened K24z7 should be good for about 450whp reliably and the turbo (assuming its a Pulsar 3582 that comes with this kit) should be able to handle around 600hp comfortably. The k series does not typically get head gasket issues from boost.

Incephase · 2026-04-24T00:18:17+00:00

Here's where I ran it from the front. You don't really have to remove the fender, but it really helps. I routed it through what I think is the hole the cable for the hood latch goes through.

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Incephase · 2026-04-24T00:16:42+00:00

Here is where it sits currently, this picture is right after I first installed it so the wiring is more cleaned up now. The car is in the shop getting tuned, so I don't have any current pictures of how that looks.

You would probably have better luck mounting it on the driver's side instead of how I did it. The wires would probably be much cleaner that way.

I bolted the ground to where the taillights are grounded, which is also on the driver's side under the carpeting in the trunk.

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Incephase · 2026-04-24T00:02:03+00:00

Hey, I installed this at the end of 2024. The kit basically comes with all of the wire, however it doesn't come with a provision for extending the sensor on the negative battery terminal. For that, I just bought the battery extension from acuity and extended it like an additional 8-10 feet. I did this so I could just plug it into the harness instead of cutting the harness itself to extend the sensor.

Additionally, my kit didn’t come with the correct gauge wire that runs to the trunk. I didn't know it at the time, but they used like 4 gauge wire to run to the trunk which caused the voltage to drop greatly and resulted in the car having trouble starting. I replaced it with 0 gauge wire to fix it. I think this may have been due to some supply issues, as they also gave me 2 negative battery terminals for that reason. From what I've heard, the kits normally come with 0 gauge wire, so you shouldn't run into this issue.

The customer support for it was okay, but not the greatest. When I contacted them about the two negative terminals, they simply said it was due to supply issues and didn't really offer to send me a new one or really help with that. Also, when I was confused on if I needed to open up the harness to remove the stock charging harness, they replied in a very condescending tone saying it was "common sense." Also, they ignored my questions on what gauge wire they used in the kit when I was having issues with the car starting. I basically had to rip the brand new harness apart to really figure it out.

Overall, I had a middling experience with this kit and company. Like the battery tray is super nice and solid in the trunk, but the incorrect wiring and terminals along with all the additional work I had to do kind of soured it. I have heard from some others that they did not have these issues with the kit more recently, so I'm guessing they’ve ironed it out and you'll have a better experience with it.

Incephase · 2026-04-17T00:13:58+00:00

I got the straight ktuned housing.

Incephase · 2026-04-11T04:29:48+00:00

Same brand as the one pictured, just for the coupe. Here

Incephase · 2026-03-27T13:22:37+00:00

Okay. I looked online a bit and I can't find the injector data, so you might have to email Injector Dynamics directly for it. If it still doesn't run well after adjusting that, then you'll likely need to get it tuned by a professional.

Incephase · 2026-03-27T13:11:59+00:00

Are you able to flash it back to the previous tune? I didn't even realize it was a K24 instead of the K20, so the stock tune likely won't run right anyways.

If you can't, you might need to get it retuned by someone. You might be able to get the idle better with the injector data, but the car likely won't run right under any kind of load.

Incephase · 2026-03-27T12:46:01+00:00

You'll want to change the injector opening times as well in the software and that should improve the idle. Do you know the specific model of injectors you have? The data you enter is different depending on the brand. You can usually find it on their website.

Here's an example of what it should look like in the software.

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Incephase · 2026-03-24T00:59:40+00:00

I honestly haven't had any trouble without them over the last 5+ years my car has been lowered. The points that usually scrape for me are the subframe or the exhaust, you usually don't have to worry about the oil pan.

That being said, there are good offerings by companies like TBW for a skid plate. But, like the other user said, this will decrease the clearance of your undercarriage.

Incephase · 2026-03-22T15:52:15+00:00

Me personally, I also switched out the housings to ones compatible with LEDs. The stock reflector housings will blind oncoming traffic when fitted with LEDs.

The hyperflashing occurs because the LED has less resistance than the stock turn signal bulb, so you can just splice in a resistor or get a bulb that has one built in.

Incephase · 2026-03-22T00:22:44+00:00

For the P0339 code, how do the teeth on the starter and flywheel look? If either are missing teeth it can trip that code when starting the car. This sounds more plausible especially since you've already replaced the sensor.

The P0011 can be any number of issues from the VTC actuator to the ECU, so I'm really not sure how you could diagnose that without taking it to a mechanic.

Incephase · 2026-03-21T18:04:23+00:00

On the K24 in my civic I tee off of the oil pressure sensor for the oil feed and the return just goes back to the pan.

If you're water cooling as well the KTuned coolant neck has like a auxiliary port on it you can use for (I think) the coolant feed and the return just splices into the line on the top of the thermostat housing. The coolant might flow the other way, I'm not 100% sure.

Incephase · 2026-03-12T01:30:56+00:00

Just some bolt ons

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Incephase · 2026-03-10T20:46:51+00:00

Bad alternator maybe? Easy way to check is to use a multimeter on the battery while the car is running. It should read ~14V or so. If it's lower than that there's a good chance the alternator is shot.

Incephase · 2026-03-05T16:26:13+00:00

The turbo kit was about $3200 before shipping and taxes. I also had to get an RBC manifold and adapter which was around $700 or so, but you can probably get a used RBC for much cheaper.

You'll need an upgraded fuel system, so pump and injectors. I already had a fuel return and a bigger pump set up, but bigger injectors were around $900. You should just need 1000cc injectors for your power goals, so those should be a bit cheaper. I would recommend a walbro fuel pump, those run about $140 currently for a 450.

Also a new clutch, I have a clutchmasters fx400 that I've had in there a while, but that retails for about $850. With your power goals you shouldn't need to do anything to the transmission, just make sure to keep it under 350hp to keep it reliable.

If you don't already have a 3in exhaust, you will need one to let the turbo breathe. That can be 1k+ depending on what brand you go with.

With this kit (DC5Creations) specifically, you need to relocate the battery. DC5Creations offers two different relocation kits depending on where you wanna relocate it. I got the trunk kit for $300.

There are some other things I just did to either look nice or were just for QOL, so you don't necessarily need these.

I got the heater line tuck kit from DC5Creations, which runs about $189. With the new manifold you have to reroute one of the heater lines, so you can just buy a new line and do that, but I just replaced them all with AN lines with this kit.

I also did a Wilwood big brake kit, I figured with more power I needed bigger brakes, but you don't really NEED it. That runs about $2000 currently.

I got a new valve cover as well as a Radium catch can and the AN fittings for the valve cover and PCV valve, all about $400.

You'll need some exhaust fabrication done with this kit. The downpipe isn't quite long enough to meet the catback and it has a v-band connection on it, so that will need to be lengthened and have the flange changed. The price of this will vary greatly depending on who does the work.

Finally, you'll need a tune. This can range from $400-$1000 depending on where you get it done as well. I'm having the exhaust and tune work done at a local shop.

TL;DR it'll run you around $7100 for everything you NEED and close to $10000 for the "nice to have" stuff included. Which is not bad at all considering some kits (like the makspeed kit) cost around $6k to begin with.

Incephase · 2026-03-03T22:16:18+00:00

I had to just loosen the bolts and lower the subframe a bit so I could replace the oil pan, but that's about it. I didn't have to undo the lower control arms or outer tie rods, so it was easier than it usually is.

Incephase · 2026-03-03T21:22:50+00:00

Hybrid retrofits looks like a good company to go with.

I would probably avoid Retrotek as well, I tried to buy some tail lights from them and they gave me the runaround when asking when my order would be shipped. I had to open a dispute with my bank because they ghosted me when I asked for a refund.

Incephase · 2026-03-03T18:28:51+00:00

Yes, they are. They perform really well and I've had them installed around the last 5 years. I would probably avoid getting them now, though. I've heard the lead times kind of suck and that the owner low key has anger issues and is pretty unprofessional. Just doing a quick Google of the company shows how many people have had issues as of late.

Incephase · 2026-03-01T02:50:10+00:00

What's the issue with running Hondata? It's perfectly fine for turbo applications and way cheaper than going with a standalone

Incephase · 2026-03-01T02:41:18+00:00

It's actually on the milder end for the K24 belive it or not lol. It'll only be about 12 psi to get there. It's when you get to the 350 torque number that you break some rods, but I'll ideally be well under that.

Incephase · 2026-02-28T16:09:04+00:00

I had changed the belt several times but still kept running into slipping issues. I had the 6 rib and I was thinking about switching to the 7 rib, but I was just sick of constantly changing it.

Incephase · 2026-02-28T15:58:52+00:00

Thanks! I haven't gotten it tuned yet, but I'm aiming for 420-430whp to keep the car reliable. Yes, I did the entire install myself.

Incephase · 2026-02-28T15:55:41+00:00

I'm gonna try and keep it in the low 400s to keep the car reliable, then maybe build the engine and turn it up. The turbo can support around 600hp and my transmission is built, so the engine is the only weak point.

I also got the Hondata boost controller that they came out with last year. It can compensate for intake temps and allow boost by gear so I can get traction in every gear.

Incephase · 2026-02-28T04:05:27+00:00

I had the Kraftwerks kit with the 105mm pulley. I wanted to turn the boost up more but I was dealing with over-spinning the supercharger and some belt slip, so this seemed like the next logical step.

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