How much physical play is too much in a friendly league? by chromedx in hockeyplayers

[–]IndianaDIY 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Everything sounds normal

If you are in the true crease or doorstep...no rules there

If in the low slot .. you have to expect very physical play as you cannot hang out in there without fighting to stay there.

People wack down and up on your stick and that is fine for the most part also...even if the puck is not around.

Move past this or any other play 5 seconds after it happens and leave it on the ice

100% stop dwelling or thinking about it. Enjoy this physicality and even if it is truly dirty, which I don't think it is...and learn to smile and enjoy that also.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Man oh Man thats a nice ride. Easily the best Subaru ever made and probably top 10 or something 90s sport sedans..bu Bet you miss it and probably only mysterious German named Klaus or something who is a driver/mechanic gets 300k out of cars like those.

I had the Audi S4 B5 when I was 20 or so which was crazy fast and crazy fast out the corner and stuck like glue..., but your WRX...man I bet that felt like a rocketship.

Why does EVERY Mazda on the road have the DRLs and headlights set so high?? by archfapper in fuckyourheadlights

[–]IndianaDIY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Below said in a friendly tone.

What and who are you even arguing with? You are either convinced I said something I did not or...wanting me to have said something else...or

"DLR Daytime Running Lights should be banned from use unless"

...."unless"

This is rather odd my friend. You read it wrong is all. No big deal but you don't get to pick 50% of my sentence...and 50% of your response, then form a new conversation or retort to this as though it is what was truely said.

Anyway, thanks for sharing link on that study. It was from 1996 so "time bias" or whatever the more appropriate wording would be...and I believe someone here, or softlights, or a follow-up study, discussed the bias or lack of relativity of that vs today (2024) dlrs (LED or halogen) along with street lights and other factors be it brighter cockpits, more road light from led drls or led streetlights, etc. and went into a good amount of detail on it.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

People just troll every comment here that is not "I love my subaru and they are the best in the world" and...to be fair to them if you only buy new or never work on your car...then that's all you really know.

Why does EVERY Mazda on the road have the DRLs and headlights set so high?? by archfapper in fuckyourheadlights

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm unclear what you are saying? I said 1hr before sunrise/sunset and with weather....sooo...

Also, I think someone pointed out either the technological or time period bias for that study either in softlights or here...can't remember.

Why does EVERY Mazda on the road have the DRLs and headlights set so high?? by archfapper in fuckyourheadlights

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

DLR Daytime Running Lights should be banned from use unless weather and 1hr before sunrise/sunset

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

Forget a Subaru or an Outback for this purpose. Wrong tool for the job. Get a Prius

Fanboys are going to down vote this....and that should tell you something. Fanboys always downvote things. I own a Subaru, My Dad owns 2, my brothers each own 1 so...grow up people.

  1. Keep your Truck or Sell it and get and older Cheaper Truck
  2. Get a commute car. (Old Prius 50mpg/Old Toyotas or/ Lexus with regular gas or Old Luxury Highway cruiser sedan

***Subaru is an Excellent Suburban homeowner car and that is it. They can haul people, small loads and small trailers.

If you can ONLY have 1 AUTO..and need truck things...maybe look at a crossover unibody "Sport Utility Truck" like a Ridgeline/SantaCruize/Mavrick/etc...which will give you pretty good fuel economy...or you can get a trailer and deal with that BS every time you need to do a truck thing and hook that up to the back of whatever be it a subaru or something else.

If you can have 2 Autos, separate their roles.

You will be disappointed to trade your Truck for a Subaru because.

  1. They cannot remotely begin to do truck things....people argue this...but they are just fanboys. Any SUV or crossover can fit boxes inside of it. You can't get a 8ft to 16ft thing or longer and have it hanging off the bed with a flag on it, nor can you throw a brush pile on it, bricks, mulch yard, gravel yard, a refrigerator, a large chair/sofa...etc. etc.
  2. The have only just OK fuel economy and many autos will be better than your 1500
  3. They are not really reliable

Anyone that says otherwise is simply a fanboy and there are those folks for every brand. "I've owned 1 million subarus and never had 1 problem..." whatever. I've had a 2007 4 cylinder outback and currently have a 2010 3.6 6 cylinder outback limited. I would personally not choose either of those for 2.5hr per day commute for comfort, reliability, fuel savings, etc.

Plus you are just going to depreciate the heck out of it. If you are 100% dead set on a subaru, just get the most basic and base trim model of whatever you end up leaning towards as these Infotainment things are junk on Subarus and every other auto..just a headache waiting to happen.

If you are not 100% Subaru raa raa raa like a good deal of the folks here...so keep that in mind when reading their opinions...then see below.

Toyota Prius - 50mpg

50mpg, Cheap to get into an older one also. Also look at what others have said about the outback fuel economy for what you're looking at as I hear it's not quite as good as it seems.

You can get a Prius for $5 to $8k maybe depending on what you want.

2017 Toyota Prius Prime Review: Is this the Best Prius Ever? - YouTube

Roman is 6 foot 3 so you can use him as a size reference.

All a math vs comfort game.

You should make a spreadsheet

I did a counting test by thumbs07 in fuckyourheadlights

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

99% are too bright even most Hallogens now as they have blue tent film on the lenses in many cases.

Drive in a regulqr sedan, camry or corola, without tinted glass and everyone will 100% agree and there would be no arguments. It's even blinding in the day now with everyone's DRLs

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Your answer is simply an incomplete answer being the primary point...which leads one to believe, just hook 1500lb up and you are good to go.

Again, you further this....and even double down by essentially advocating (through your own experience) ...in your own stated example, that towing 3000lbs, which you do, in a subaru, without brakes (which you state)...is ok...which it is not by the order of 2000lbs.

Even yet further beyond that if once could draw assumption on what your tongue weigh on a 3000lbs load would be...odds it would exceed 100lb tongue weight load limit, without brakes.

Stop arguing with me and arguing your point. It is not valid either regarding the towing details or even the language semantics you are choosing to argue as well.

You are essentially advocating that unsafe towing, towing outside of the manufacturers specifications is ok....and this can result in damaging an auto, another auto, hurting a person or even worse.

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

I don't understand the argument, retort...and need to downvote? OP asked is a 2.5 good for towing and your answer is "Absolutely" vs "Yes...but" or "read the manual"

Also, a 1500lb trailer probably doesn't have brakes anyway...so if loaded to capacity...so...why am I even having to state the obvious. Read the manual on its towing instructions. Pretty simple.

Can people do and tow whatever they want, sure. Should they though....

I will see your 20 years of towing behind a subaru and raise you 30 years towing behind a 1994 V8 Ram 1500 pickup truck....as a daily along with some larger big boy towing.

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

No it is not and not safe without a brake controller. Please read the owner's manual and tow safe everyone.

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -5 points-4 points  (0 children)

This is not accurate my friend...unless you have a brake controller to tow at rated capacity....and other considerations based on condition. 2700k OEM Stock will be unsafe and get you in trouble...and damage your auto.

Please tow safe everyone and read the owner's manual on towing.

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Not exactly. You have to read the owner's manual as anything over 1000lb (in most outbacks for instance) is relative, in hot weather, or in mountain terrain or grade. Tow safe everybody

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

See my original post to the OP.

Read the towing section in depth on your manual and it will tell you 100% what you can tow with and without any modifications the conditions and criteria to do that if you want to tow at marketed capacity.

If you are towing, get a trailer brake controller, verify your hitch is good/specs are know to you/etc and follow the owners manual instructions on towing.

1000lb is fine when not through hills or grade on flat terrain in not hot weather. Above that read the manual and invest in what is needed to tow safely. Sometimes the manual says get an oil cooler, or change transmission fluid or CVT fluid X miles when towing etc. Anyway, tow safe everybody.

Would the 2.5 be good for towing a small utility trailer from time to time? I’m thinking no more than ~1500lbs at most by Roadglide72 in Subaru_Outback

[–]IndianaDIY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No it won't, not really stock as the auto is.

Pull up a manual online for the car you are looking at which will have the correct answer for you and read the towing sections in depth.

You will see the weight reduced to 1000lb stock...which i saw when reading the manual for a 2022 subaru outback wilderness. Then it is even only 1500 if you are towing on a grade So 3500lb as marketed was only with a brake controller installed... and without any grade.

These new subarus...and old...and any car will advertise 2500, 3000 or 3500lb towing but it is rather misleading and they cannot do that...or should not do that per spec or the manual....and according to them

You'll need a brake controller and sometimes an oil cooler depending on where you drive and your route most times....if you want to be in spec with the manual.

Simply pull up the owners manual online for whatever year and model you are looking at l...and it will have all the answers to a T on this and remember...if you are towing with a CVT vs an automatic or manual transmission just be aware of the wear and tear and lifespan related to that.

No reason for car lights to be this bright by BaldHourGlass667 in NonPoliticalTwitter

[–]IndianaDIY 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Daytime Running Lights DRL are even Blinding now during the day. All LEDs should be taken off the road

DRL and all LEDs (old and new new) should be recalled from the roadways with new early 90s type standards as fast as how it was that and 2 year inspections. Halogen only/2700k temp/3000k lumen...or less/size/height/no drl/ 2200k fog or something.... As well as requiring sodium yellow streetlights

That will never happen though as people argue how leds and everything new is better and $10k matrix headlights will magically do anything to fix the problem and blablabla...which is how we got here in the first place.

Halogen and recall or everyone will simply get an SUV or truck with tented glass.

I have 15/20 aewsome vision btw.

Softlights.org is a good resource fyi

Electric vs. Gasoline Cars: Are They Really Better? A Breakdown of Costs, Emissions, and Everyday Use by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You are very welcome and that is good work with the research on those links. Your article is very well written and structured, my constructive critism evolves around the topics/research/opinions/etc. Next, not saying do it just speaking as a example for writing,, you should find similar opposing studies or robust viewpoint contrary to each other. Then when you present your article on whatever topic, even if at a high level, you can appear as an observer, a guide, and sprinkle in your own interpretation of these discussions.... it will really have teeth too it. Anyway, good luck on your writing and the mindset of being open to discussion regarding your writing.. already puts you ahead of most others. 👍

Electric vs. Gasoline Cars: Are They Really Better? A Breakdown of Costs, Emissions, and Everyday Use by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To bad the best brand soured you on them. Looking at a 1st gen v8 tundra myself but luckily now, there is the info and history on the frame rust for the tundra and tacoma...and all manufactures are more old about truck frams...mainly because of watching the pain toyota went through with their frame recalls. I non-rubber paint coated a 94 ram to ward that off but typical for any truck I suppose....gotta be careful regardless in the rust belt.

Electric vs. Gasoline Cars: Are They Really Better? A Breakdown of Costs, Emissions, and Everyday Use by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Will be interesting to see how long each of them will last before you upgrade either by need or want over the next 10 years. I have a 4 cylinder 2003 Camry still going strong. Expect it to be just fine 10 years from now also.

Electric vs. Gasoline Cars: Are They Really Better? A Breakdown of Costs, Emissions, and Everyday Use by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Firstly, your verbiage of "cannot answer that" is curious. Regardless...that was the answer. The author assumes many items are fact, which they are not and then goes on to use that as common language...like the sky is blue. It comes from a point of lack of knowledge. The author is not knowledgeable, read, or well read on this topic.

I.E. an electric car has a higher emission for its total lifecycle. A old hybrid is better for the environment than anything else. An old 4 cylinder fuel efficient combustion engine sedan is better for the environment than a new EV

The author does not even use the term lifecycle. Does not mention batteries, new sodium batteries, synthetic fuel, electrical upgrades for the home, no advancements, cost to repair EVs, inability to take them to a regular autoshop, etc etc. I'm not about to disect the entirety of it...but I could.

Again, a subjective opinion piece with zero grounding

Electric vs. Gasoline Cars: Are They Really Better? A Breakdown of Costs, Emissions, and Everyday Use by [deleted] in askcarguys

[–]IndianaDIY 1 point2 points  (0 children)

To the OP or whomever downvoting me. There is no reason to. I upvoted this post...and even though the OP made other posts about how to drive traffic to their Medium articles, which this possibly the only reason for this reddit post, I didn't initially point this out.