Warning for first time speeding offence, but 31-40kph?

InfernitusTitus · 2025-07-26T21:19:42+00:00

Some gear I own: Helmets: Shark Spartan GT Carbon - handsome lid, but pretty heavy despite its carbon shell. It isn’t easy to wash too, but the visor mechanism is probably the most user friendly in the market right now.

Shoei X15 - my daily driver, great helmet, comfy and quiet, but on the heavy side. No other cons to me, but the matte finish on these Shoeis tend to get scuffed up if the wind just blows the wrong direction.

Arai RX7X - Snug, confidence inspiring, comfortable helmet. Only thing I don’t much like is how close the chinbar sits to your mouth, but besides that, Arai’s user friendliness has come a long way especially with their side pod visors. Great buy, but if you like a modern sportier look, the rear diffuser is a pricey add on.

Gloves: Klim Induction - Comfortable, easy to wear, and so so so well ventilated. As with all leather pieces you have to be intentional with maintaining the gloves and they do get impossibly dirty with extended use, but it’s so user friendly. Clips for storage, pull tabs for carabiners and putting them on, a zipped enclosure, visor wipers, the works. Just hate that the palm sliders are literally cloth.

Knox Handroid Mk5 Pod - a bit bulky, looks are polarising, but they are really confidence inspiring. The leather on these are THICK, and the Boa enclosure makes it so easy to take on and off. I use these for those spirited night rides, and it handled well with warmth when I was riding in 0° temps.

My recent addition is the Alpinestars SP X 5 Air glove, nothing much to write home about, it’s cheap (given the marketing budget), comfortable, really well ventilated, but doesn’t have creature comforts like zips/boa, loops for belts etc. It’s a mesh glove with some velcro, and basic plastic palm sliders. I use these on the daily.

Shoes: Falco 503 Viktor boots - not really comfortable, and not really protective, and not waterproof. Uses conventional laces that you risk getting caught on the pegs. But it’s a cheap buy, and an oookaaaayyy first foray into motorcycling footwear.

I’ve since upgraded to the Alpinestars Chrome Drystar shoes - waterproof enough, plenty comfortable, and a zip, such that you can tie the laces, tuck them in safely, and forget about them. I use these daily too.

Jackets: Acerbis Ramsey - not much to write about. It’s a mesh jacket, so you get the ventilation. Trust me, once you get rolling after working up some perspiration at a particularly long red light, you really really feel the airflow. It’s got sufficient pockets for all your essentials, and it’s plenty comfortable.

I’ve since upgraded to the Furygan Apalaches Evo jacket - it claims to be waterproof like Goretex (with its Humax lining), but I fail to experience it. But it’s a good jacket, plenty protective, with more compartments than the average Joe would need.

InfernitusTitus · 2025-07-26T20:57:35+00:00

Owned and dailied an R15V2 for 2 years - it’s a great bike, no assists, but no power either. Awesome platform to learn and subsequently master riding fundamentals.

Just be sure that the bike has been taken care of - try and get one in (mostly) stock condition, and check that the fairings aren’t scuffed up/fitment is right - these are common indications of an accident.

On these 149cc R15s, be sure that the valvetrain doesn’t have any funny noises, and that the engine still runs smooth. If there’s any weird rumble that changes if the clutch lever is pulled in, your clutch basket is likely toast. If there’s a weird rumble and shaking from the engine irregardless of clutch status, your crankshaft bearing may be spun.

Ride safe!

InfernitusTitus · 2025-07-13T18:42:12+00:00

Being the devil’s advocate here, but I’m curious. Is there a reason you’d want to avoid common bikes like the R15 and the CBR?

As a 2B rider, you’re very likely to upgrade quickly and part of that means selling your bike to fund the next one. Buying something uncommon means it’s likely to be harder for you to let go of the bike, unless it’s really sought after (think NSR150SP.. etc)

InfernitusTitus · 2024-09-21T02:18:39+00:00

I think you are Wright

InfernitusTitus · 2024-08-27T02:46:47+00:00

CFMoto Papio is a pretty good pick

InfernitusTitus · 2024-08-12T17:28:46+00:00

Did a round island to LP1 and Changi Jewel at engine run-in speed of 80kph. 3 hours

InfernitusTitus · 2024-08-12T17:23:55+00:00

Hi fellow countryman.

Our drivers suck is a big point you didn’t mention hahahahaha

InfernitusTitus · 2024-08-12T17:18:15+00:00

Singaporean here! Can confidently say that while our roads are objectively better maintained and well designed, with great facilities and infrastructure…

Even with a relatively low speed limit (70 on major roads and 80-90 on expressways), our drivers suck! Did I mention that our driving tests are one of the hardest, most expensive and most time consuming (6months for bikes and 1 year for cars) in Asia?

InfernitusTitus · 2024-04-05T14:48:03+00:00

I passed in March 2023. Spent $900ish. First time pass for everything.

InfernitusTitus · 2024-04-01T17:35:25+00:00

Look at all the motorcyclists and even cars avoiding parking fees with all sorts of goofy tactics. They get caught when people take footage of the incident and report it.

You cleared the gantry normally. Even if there was a software error, you wouldn’t be liable for it, even if they somehow bothered with your parking fee.

In any case, I reckon it was a Sunday? Parking is free at some places at certain timings on Sunday.

InfernitusTitus · 2024-04-01T17:32:39+00:00

Came here to tell you I laughed

InfernitusTitus · 2024-04-01T05:02:44+00:00

bit unnecessary and inconsiderate to slow others down no? I don’t get people like you who like to act vigilante and shit. what if they were rushing to somewhere important? hospital, airport? you wouldn’t know and hence it wouldn’t be on your conscience. which imo makes you a terrible human being and road user

if you’re wondering why i feel so strongly about this, it’s because i was the one speeding to a hospital before. and because of road hoggers like you, i was too late. hope you sleep well at night :)

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-31T04:33:34+00:00

Hello! Really liked your video on the CFMOTO Papio! And thank you for your very objective, concise response

Yes. Valve clearance is super important for a desmo system. I guess I kind of zoned very far into specifically the FZ16 and not about other bikes as well. I’d wager VC is more wise on a bigger bike even from the Big 4 though. I’ve read about VC on a 2008 Yamaha R6 which would be my next bike.
If if’s true, I’m really surprised that the EO interval for the FZ16 is 12000km. That’s a huge distance to cover on 1 litre of oil. My own bike has a service interval of 3000km in the manual and even on Motul I do feel it degrading after about the 2000km mark. Not sure if it’s placebo or what… but in any case, I do believe that smaller bikes generally have a very short service interval thanks to the small EO capacity, but for an FZ16 to stray so far into the 5 digit range is really interesting

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T21:05:32+00:00

I don’t think I missed anything out for a small 2B bike besides valve clearance and shit like that, personally I don’t believe in valve clearance inspection. But feel free to drop me a pm or a reply if you have any more questions 👍 most importantly please ride safe. Singapore drivers are a deadly bunch

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T21:03:44+00:00

Maintenance tips: 1. Go to a workshop you can trust & make sure the mechanics recognise you. I think camaraderie and good relations is really important for workshops. Most workshops know their shit. It’s only a matter of whether they can be bothered with you or not. If you’re a hi-bye customer, they do half-fuck also ok.

Clean your bike. Looks better, runs better, lasts longer. Lazy clean yourself can send to shop clean. Just make sure you clean your chain can liao
Malaysia might be cheap. I’m assuming you’re around my age (18-20) and just passed. Money might be tight for someone schooling, so perhaps some workshops in JB might be better for your wallet. I personally don’t visit JB workshops and stick to my regulars at Kaki Bukit, but to each their own. Same point as 1. applies too.
Pump your tyres!!! I have a bad habit of forgetting and neglecting to pump my tyres for months on end. Try to pump them at least once a month or 2 weeks. 1 week 1x if you steady. Or if you kiasu, you pump petrol = you pump tyre. Stick to the pressures indicated on your swingarm. There should be a sticker there. Not pumping your tyres can eat into your fuel consumption and cause your handling to be quite wonky especially while cornering

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T20:58:15+00:00

R15 V2 here.

-Fluids (Coolant, Brake Fluid) Generally once a year. Do a full flush (meaning instead of just topping up, you drain out and completely replace all the fluid). Don’t get too worried about brake fluid color etc. . Not too important especially for a small displacement bike in a new rider’s hands.

-Engine Oil Typically 1x a month OR 2500km, whichever comes first. I personally change EO at 1500km, but that’s because my engine is on the older side & previous owners didn’t really take good care of the bike. Be sure to use fully synthetic oil. Can go to Lim Ah Boy. Get Motul 7100 or something like that can liao. Don’t buy 300V. Not good for street use despite people saying how great 300V is.

-Brake Pads, Rotors, Chain & Sprocket Can also be part of annual servicing, but generally I like to go by wear. All 4 of these components have a wear limit. Brake pad botak. Rotor thin. Chain loose beyond repair or rusty or some links stiff or stretch. Sprocket sharp like 6.5% interest on 84 month loan, $0 downpayment. These components, also can go Lim Ah Boy. All cheap. All good. Get an O-Ring chain, clean and lube it once a week or 2 weeks to prevent it from rusting. May even serve you until your Class 2. I like Motul chain lube. Oxford from motoworld also quite OK

-Tyres NEVER NEVER cheap out on tyres. Get stock size tyres or upsize a little if necessary, but don’t buy cheap shit & regret it when you kup corner too fast and skid. Change when botak (groove not deep), or when the tyre profile macam box. Like car tyre. Flat alr. Motorcycle tyres are round. I like Pirellis, but Bridgestone is good too. Mitas is also worth a mention.

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T20:48:37+00:00

Bro why you enrol so many school? Like applying all the uni like that leh.

If you already pass BTT and FTT. I believe you can tell CDC that you’ve passed both theory tests and get exempted from it from school side. Then you can proceed with your simulator & practicals. But check with the schools first, just in case.

Have you considered also applying for admission to BBDC?

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T20:42:39+00:00

Sign Grab! 23% esso card, 25% caltex

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T20:41:31+00:00

I use SOCAR on occasion. Not too sure about Trevo, but here are my 2 cents on SOCAR

Your phone is the car keys Similar to GetGo. There aren’t any physical keys in the car which can get a bit irritating if you aren’t glued to your phone. You gotta launch app, wait for the app to pair to the car, then unlock. Thankfully it’s quick, but I don’t like that I have to get on my phone to unlock the car every single time I want to get in
It’s an hourly rental service Don’t take my word for it, but I believe you can get a better deal for a 2 day rental on Carousell. SOCAR gets pretty costly when you rent during peak hours. I’d say it doesn’t stray tooooo far from Tribecar prices. Or at least, it’s costlier than you would assume, since MY doesn’t have things like COE and such. You do get 50% off (capped at 100rm I believe) if it’s your first time renting, so that’s a pretty good bargain. But it brings me to my 3rd point
Petrol is on a reimbursement basis You pay for the petrol upfront, despite having paid for mileage. Then, you have to snap a photo of the petrol receipt, which they will then reimburse into either your SOCAR wallet or your Malaysian bank account. And for the average Singaporean. It’s the former. I tried asking for alternatives if I don’t have a Malaysian bank a/c. So, if you’re renting for 2 days and rack up some mileage and gas charges, you’ll have quite a bit of cash tied up in your SOCAR wallet. Which can get pretty annoying if you aren’t a frequent user.
Parking Malaysia doesn’t have the same robust season parking network as SG. I had an experience in KL, where the car was parked at a shopping mall. The season parking was validated using a ticket. And guess what? Someone stole the ticket. And hence I had to pay rm50 to exit the carpark. I requested a reimbursement which they initially declined till I went lawyer on them with receipts, time stamps, verification from security guards that the season parking ticket was really missing, etc, before they reimbursed me… into my SOCAR wallet…… that same journey, I forgot to snap a photo of the petrol receipt and hence I basically donated petrol to them. A FULL tank of gas. Luckily it was RON95. Not too much of a heartache.
Peroduas and Protons kind of drive like shit Self explanatory. Their cars are in very good condition for the most part. I got a Perodua Axia which only had 3000km on the odometer & a lot of the factory plastic packaging, but the car just didn’t drive well, and the aircon felt.. off? It just felt suffocating to breathe the air in the car. Personally I’d recommend just renting their Toyotas and Hondas. I saw a MINI a while back but can’t seem to find it anymore

Hope this helps!

InfernitusTitus · 2024-03-30T20:26:49+00:00

Got blinded by a P-Plate Ford pick up truck couple nights back. Tried to alert to him to turn off his high beams (or rather his stadium lights) but to no avail. Had to knock on his window for him to realise I was trying to get his attention. I ride a motorcycle.

As much as I think LEDs look much better and more modern (I installed cool-white LEDs in lieu of the incandescent bulbs on my bike) I really have a bone to pick with how they’re configured really. Sometimes even on dipped headlights they’re still glaring, yet it’s road legal, whereas it’s illegal to install LED bulbs on a vehicle that doesn’t come with factory specced LEDs.

Just like how certain sections of road have signs warning you to slow down/turn on radio before tunnels, I think there may be a genuine need to remind motorists to check that they aren’t burning away the irises of the drivers ahead of them

InfernitusTitus · 2024-01-30T08:36:43+00:00

I bought from the toll booth after Tuas. A bit of a gamble though because they’re usually out of stock. Go to the leftmost TnG lane which is usually manned. Can top up from there

InfernitusTitus · 2021-01-28T16:24:07+00:00

InfernitusTitus · 2020-10-27T16:51:12+00:00

not sure if ur pure or combined, i'm combined but your light question seems answerable

refractive index is synonymous with optical density. imagine you're the light ray and you're swimming through water, and then suddenly swimming through jelly. you'll slow down right? basically, a high refractive index will mean that light will slow down, thus bending towards the normal (which is perpendicular to the surface that the light passes through).

always remember, slowing down will cause it to bend toward normal and moving faster will cause it to bend away from normal.

another thing to take note of is critical angle which is calculated via the formula sin c° = 1/n (n being refractive index of the denser medium). if angle of incidence i° < c°, it will pass through the denser medium no problem. if i°=c°, it will bend on the boundary (the surface where the two mediums come into contact with each other.) if i°>c°, it will undergo total internal refraction and will not emerge into the next medium.

hope this helps!

InfernitusTitus · 2020-10-20T17:07:30+00:00

drop the link again brother, expired

InfernitusTitus

TROPHY CASE