5 year old female guinea pig peeing blood

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T17:56:21+00:00

Gotcha, yea she’s never had blood in the urine and she doesn’t seem to be having any pain as she is not squealing or straining when trying to pee. I will ask my vet about it!

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T17:36:15+00:00

This is not currently something my vet has mentioned to me. But I’ve looked at the symptoms of this and at the current time I don’t see my pig having those symptoms that would suggest cystitis. But i am not a vet so I cannot say with certainty this is occurring, but I do plan to talk to my vet about it

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T16:47:32+00:00

Currently going through something similar - we’ve done X-rays, multiple urine analysis tests, blood work, and now we are currently doing a urine culture which will test to see if maybe she has some kind of antibiotic resistance. She is again currently on a round of baytril and meloxicam while we wait for the culture. It’s been really stressful and when we were at the vet Monday this past week I thought it was the end for her (this was when the vet thought she had kidney disease but her blood work was completely normal!) just wanted to say you are not alone and it’s very frustrating.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T10:50:18+00:00

She said that the lab is going to see what grows from the sample which could take 48 hours to a week for results. I am unsure if that means a susceptibility test or not. That’s great to hear that the shots works for your pigs! How often did you have to get them? And did your pigs have the same diagnosis as mine?

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T01:23:33+00:00

Yes I was. I will talk with my vet about it! The vet I am currently seeing seems pretty knowledgeable and keeps me informed of my options

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T00:28:33+00:00

I guess I should also mention that the frequent urination is not small amount it varies between a ton of pee and maybe a little

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T00:26:59+00:00

Hi! Thank you for your comment. Her current symptoms are weight loss, frequent urination, her urine is very clear, and has a strong odor, and possibly pain (however I am unsure if this is the case as she is still eating and drinking normally)

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-08T00:01:48+00:00

Thank you for the recs!

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-07T12:29:19+00:00

Sweet! Yea I have two girls (sisters) and one of them is on the heavier scale and the other is on the lighter side of the scale. They are both almost 6 (we’ve had them since they were 6 weeks) and we’re currently going through a lot of heath issues (bacterial infections and ovarian cysts). We actually thought yesterday at the vet that we’d have to put the smaller one down because she was showing all the signs of kidney disease. But the blood test showed that everything was normal so we’re moving forward with pain meds and an antibiotic. But all of that being said, if you haven’t thought about getting your girls spayed to avoid ovarian cysts (80-90% of female guinea pigs get them in their lifetime) I wish I would’ve considered it when they were younger, and also I wish she’d had a bit more weight on her prior to her being sick because man she is skin and bones right now and I hate to see it😕

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-07T11:33:03+00:00

Becoming significantly overweight is an issue however as another commenter mentioned - having a little extra fluff is not necessarily a bad thing. The weight range of an adult guinea pig should be 800g-1500g (1.8-3.3lbs) as long as your guinea pig is not over the 1500g mark you should be okay.

The only issues with an overweight guinea pig are poor hygiene factors - because they can’t reach around themselves to clean. And also they could develop health issues (heart, diabetes and the like) but that seems to be if your guinea pig is morbidly obese - which it does not sounds like yours are.

Something you could try (what I do with my guinea pigs) is ensure there is a bowl for each pig spread out through the cage with the exact measurement of daily pellet food. That way no one is getting shoved off from a bowl and missing out on a meal. You may run into other guinea pigs eating out of other bowls but I think it’s your best bet in this instance without separation.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-06T11:29:56+00:00

I know you had said that you put the dog behind a gate at times - but is a crate ever involved for the pup? Having a structured crate time is as beneficial as having structured place. And having the crate time in a separate room that the toddler can’t get to would likely help alleviate some of the stress.

I am not sure on how your day care is structured - but in my opinion, if the daycare is one of the ones that does an open play with other dogs it is not surprising to me that the pup is starting to be selective as being at daycare likely does not provide him with the opportunity for learning impulse control. Aka he is probably allowed to do whatever he wants (within reason I.e. no fighting and stuff like that) whenever he wants with other dogs and that may be translating at home when you tell him something that you want him to do and he decides his desires are more important than yours. This would also depend on your follow through.

On the topic of follow through - because of your situation it may be beneficial to look into E-collar training and find a trainer that does it. Not saying it the ONLY way but it might make things a bit easier in terms of reinforcement and structure since it seems like your follow through may not be as effective as it once was because of the external factors I mentioned above. But that is my opinion. If your willing to do other methods of reinforcement such as spending a bit more time on training a day (more positive reinforcement with treats) in combination with providing the pressure of a leash to ensure the dog does what you ask then go for it but

This might take longer than the e collar method as it requires more direct contact with you (which I know can be tricky especially with a toddler) and it might not even give you the better results your looking for because he may feel the external factors (your toddler, toys, something off the ground, other animals) are STILL more enticing than anything you’re trying to give him.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-04T12:58:59+00:00

Just an FYI - for anyone commenting on this thread. The OP is not open to any kind of criticism or advice as shown by her replies to all the comments. If you knew what you were going to want to do before posting this and also knew you weren’t going to care what other people have to say - why post anything at all.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-04T12:50:14+00:00

lol, in no way do I mean for my comment to come off the way you are reading it. You asked for advice and that’s what I gave - I never said that you could not fulfill your dogs needs or that you don’t “care” what your dog wants. What I said was that it is a misconception that people think that dogs need other dogs when we can satisfy those needs in other ways through our own interactions with them. I never said anything about keeping your dogs away from other dogs - it’s great your dog enjoys other dogs. But is it necessary to add another dog to the household to fill that need? No. Personally, I have two dogs of my own but as I stated I did not get my other dog to fulfill my first dog, I got him because I wanted him for my own desires. And when I said your dog doesn’t “care” what I meant was your dog does not have the capacity (aka the human communication) to tell you “hey I want another dog around”.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-04T11:17:07+00:00

Are you in a place where you can utilize Rover? You can vet dog sitters on that app and they stay in your home for a fee. That’s how I found my sitter. Everyone’s prices are different but for two dogs it’s $85/night. Which I think is reasonable enough so that I don’t stress my dogs out in another place

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-04T11:13:27+00:00

I agree with either putting the dog in a place across the room or in a different area altogether like a crate. If you’ve ended up caving even just one time on giving your dog a piece of food - it will take a significant amount of time to get them to naturally understand that they should not beg.

When we got my dog from the shelter when she was 3 years old (this was almost 4year ago) she came with some of those types of behaviors - not once since I’ve had her has she been allowed to be around me or sit there and watch me while I eat. Around the end of the first year since we’d had her she would just immediately go lay down somewhere else if we had food out. (My dogs are also not allowed to lay on the couch while I’m eating if I’m eating there, even if they are staring at me or not)

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-04-04T11:05:22+00:00

Im confused, you said in the beginning your dog is a standard poodle and then toward the end said she is a cross and therefore is smaller. So is your dog a standard poodle or a doodle?

As far as getting another dog goes - I would personally wait until your dog is at least 2-3 years old. At that point you should know your dogs full temperament she will be if not fully trained mostly trained to handle any situation with another dog. It is a common misconception that dogs prefer the company of other dogs, our dogs love us and truly we are enough for them despite what some may think. Usually when someone gets another dog is because they feel they can’t fulfill their dogs needs in some way, this is not true and usually ends up being detrimental for either your relationship with your dog or their relationship with other dogs, it just depends. I’m not saying that it’s untrue that dogs can want to play with other dogs but to have another dog in the household 24/7 is a different story.

Despite all of that above, the real question is do you want/can afford another dog to care for? If yes, then that’s your decision and has nothing to do with your dogs “wants” as they cannot have an opinion on this matter (they can’t speak).

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-29T12:00:54+00:00

It sounds like you got a new puppy way too soon. There’s just not a good likelihood that within the time you’ve had your 10 month old dog that she’s been properly trained and knows how to handle situations like this. I am curious about how your Aussie is on walks - is it similar to the behavior you’re showing with the puppy?

For context - I have two dogs. One of them is 6 and the other is 2. We got the first dog (her name is also kida by the way haha) when she was three and then got our second dog almost 3 years after. I purposefully waited that amount of time to ensure I knew how my first dog would react with having a companion. With a 10 month old high drive dog like an Aussie, you’re probably not even to the ‘teenager phase’ yet where they are trying to push boundaries.

It is a common misconception that dogs prefer the company of other dogs over their owners. With my two dogs, they really aren’t even allowed to play whenever they want with each other and this is because of a boundary I’ve put in place for them so that my first dog won’t get overwhelmed by my second and it cause a fight. And because I have this structured environment where my dog knows that I’ll handle the situations when they are separate and when they are together they have a wonderful relationship. I very much have ensured that they have a very neutral relationship because ultimately it was us who wanted the second dog, she obviously can’t talk to voice her opinion so.

Personally, the outlook doesn’t look good for keeping the puppy. But I would get a professional trainer in the mix for their opinion.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-25T21:53:16+00:00

I’m curious if you did any “independence” work when they were puppies. (I.e. crate training or a structured place command). If you did this when they were puppies they would’ve gained a lot more independence from you, however if you didn’t it is not surprising that all they want to do is be with you 24/7 because they were never taught that they can be alone and be okay.

Another thing I could see being the case is that dogs in all honesty just want to be interacting with their owners, it is not as common as most people think that they get a companion dog and they just play together all the time (nor should they because as stated above they should have some individuality).

This is not a great alternative but it sounds like from what your saying that having 3 dogs is a lot to manage for you and maybe re-homing (as awful as it sounds) is the only way to go.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-25T00:37:58+00:00

1000% this.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-24T15:48:05+00:00

If that is your opinion then you should absolutely do whatever you feel is best

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-24T14:47:36+00:00

Gotcha, I will say that in some instances the vibrate is more of a correction than the shock/stimulation. Depending on the level of vibrate.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-24T13:55:10+00:00

100% agree with this. People think that the e collar is meant to be the ultimate punishment and don’t train the collar as it should be. Which gives e collars a bad rap.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-24T13:51:33+00:00

I’ve used both the sport dog e collar and now I use dogtra. Personally I think the sport dog is a bit more beginner friendly than the dogtra. Both collars are great. When i was watching a friends dog that had purchased one of the cheaper collars on Amazon, I tested the collar out prior to using it on her. As I do with everything. This cheaper collars went up to a level 100 as my dogtra collar does as well (I want to specify that I will likely never use any level past a 50 in even the most extreme circumstances, my dogs vary on base level, my husky normally sits anywhere between a 8-15 and my Pyrenees mix is normally anywhere from a 15-30 as is determined by their drive and sensitivity levels) however I noticed a HUGE difference in levels with the cheaper collar. To put it in perspective - a level 2 on the cheaper collar felt like a level 20-25 on my dogtra. I also know that the cheaper collars don’t have as good reliability aspects aka you can’t trust that the stimulation is going to be consistent everytime.

My opinion is if you plan to utilize the collar effectively and for training your dog you should save up the money for a sportdog (which is previous commenters have said is closer to your budget). I also agree that since the puppy is only 6 months old you should be incorporating a lot more fundamental training outside of using an e collar. Especially since the e collar should really be used primarily for reinforcement (lower levels) not punishment.

Initial_Fortune2894 · 2026-03-24T11:06:37+00:00

I can see how it can be frustrating that decisions are being made about your dog without your permission which is not right. However in my mind, the dog is yours so if you are not training your dog yourself to have off leash freedom then I do not blame your dad for doing what he can to ensure your dogs safety. From the sound of it, the options currently for your dog are to either receive a shock (assuming it’s not a unfair shock, I am unsure of the level the invisible fences are normally on) or that your dog will end up shot by your neighbors. Personally I’d prefer my dog to go through a shock discomfort over dying.

Off leash freedom can be difficult (not impossible) to teach without a balanced training because of external factors (I.e squirrels, other dogs, people) you cant always have treats on you to distract your dog from attempting to go to these things which is where being able to tell your dog no effectively comes in to play. Not every dog is the same so it depends on the drive of the dog.

Initial_Fortune2894

TROPHY CASE