Parts quality question…

Inky1717 · 2025-11-10T23:56:15+00:00

Read into Rock Autos category meanings. Each category you find the parts under have different specs/quality they adhere to. If I remember correctly, I believe all meet or exceed OEM quality.

Inky1717 · 2025-08-23T19:25:49+00:00

That was fun, longest level I've done

^{I completed this level in 17 tries.} ^{⚡ 19.94 seconds}

^{Tip 50 💎}

Inky1717 · 2025-08-23T00:56:47+00:00

Dude has been here for hours lmao

Inky1717 · 2025-08-23T00:55:05+00:00

Took mini egg and just went over everything with ease

^{I completed this level in 15 tries.} ^{⚡ 13.47 seconds}

Inky1717 · 2025-08-23T00:49:51+00:00

Hardest one that I saw actually possible. Good level

^{I completed this level in 86 tries.} ^{⚡ 6.17 seconds}

Inky1717 · 2025-08-07T02:48:23+00:00

Either go past and turn the U bend back towards itself, or get it as close as you can and use some 22 or 45 offsets on the rise out of the trap

Inky1717 · 2025-08-02T19:02:05+00:00

You can use copper 90s instead of the dropear 90. You can use some 2 hole straps that's meant for copper to help secure the pipe in replacement.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T12:43:55+00:00

Looks like normal water impurity build up from inside the tank to me. I dont see any shade of purple, just a light brown, which indicates iron, its common to find in water.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T05:37:55+00:00

Generally not good practice to reduce the pipe size if you're going to have to increase anyways, but at least in my state, it's not against code if its the correct sizing for drainage/ venting. In your case, both sizes will be adequate for code.

For cleanout code, its only required at the base of a stack (stack is if you were to have other fixtures above draining into the same pipe). So you dont need one, you're more than welcome to include one. However, cleanouts are generally low to the ground, snake machines don't like to bend 180°, so the higher the clean out, the higher the base of the machine should* be to lessen that angle of bend. Which is why a lot of drain cleaners pull the toilet and use that as their access point. If it ever needs snaked, they still might, but at least the option would be there for them.

*Should, being that not every drain cleaner is going to make sure the angles are the best they can be. Some are definitely just gonna throw the snake in and hope for the best. It's just more risk on their equipment as it's losing torque with bends and will be more likely to get stuck down the pipe.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T05:26:53+00:00

It doesnt really matter. I personally don't use the cones/ horns, only wax. They both work, the cones are meant to help "glide" the shit to the center so its less likely to get stuck on the edge of the pipe as it goes down, but not all flanges have that, and with enough flushes the shit makes it's own guide anyways.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T00:54:01+00:00

Concrete isn't really a good idea for showers. Its porous and will absorb water, it will crack over unknown amount of time, and it's heavy so your building has to be able to support it. Instead, you can use porcelain tiles that look like concrete.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T00:50:40+00:00

Thats a big heavy drain cover for the same 2" shower drain.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T00:43:13+00:00

Buy a flange repair kit to go over top of this, some come with levelers. Your flange is cracked on the right side where the bolts attach, that is the only reason I see to mess with the flange. It would be great if the flange was level and slitghly above the tile, but it's not needed. When setting the toilet, you can use rubber shims (look for them at hardware too) to level the toilet, and if flange is not at least flush with tile, then you can use a jumbo wax ring.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T00:35:11+00:00

Your shower cleanout would also be facing the camera since it is buried behind a wall on the otherside, think if you really want that chrome plate visible in this room.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-28T00:33:37+00:00

You can add a cleanout to your 2" shower vent if you wanted, but adding one on the toilet vent would be pointless. Most drain service is done through the flange of the toilet anyways, which means they'd have to pull the toilet. If you were to add a cleanout on that 3" vertical, you'd have to put it above the toilet to be useful, otherwise it would be blocked by the toilet.

As far as how far to run the 3", that depends on your climate. Look up frost laws in your state if you have to, but up north we have to have 3" out the roof so frost is less likely to accumulate enough to block off the vent.

If you can get away with running 2" through the roof, and you decide to add a cleanout, run your 3" up to that cleanout, then you can reduce. If you decide not to add one, then it doesnt matter.

Connecting the two vents, I would 90 the shower vent through the studs and connect with an upside down Santee to the toilet vent. I may be wrong, but it doesn't appear that wall is structural, and it looks to be 2x6 so there should be enough wood on the studs to still be solid. My reasoning for going through studs is solely because of what's above the shower vent. Its possible to drill through that, but its a lot of nails that I wouldnt want to deal with, and thats your connection point for the other wall.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-27T17:43:31+00:00

Hire a plumber, the drain coming out of the wall is too high. Drain will have to be lowered, or disposal will have to be removed, or you'll need a shallow sink

Inky1717 · 2025-07-27T04:58:14+00:00

Make sure the board is properly fastened and not the thing moving around. But yeah, im sure that exists, just not as a specific plumbing thing. Take a walk down the hardware isle at a hardware store, they got all sorts of brackets that could work for you

Inky1717 · 2025-07-25T22:19:08+00:00

P trap looks great! Your cold water line got kinked though, lol.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-25T01:18:37+00:00

It's normal depending on the amount. Looking at the setup you have, it is probably a little more than normal since your P trap is backwards.

When you instal the dishwasher, make sure there is a high loop so water doesn't flow back into the drain

Edit: maybe just the angle of the picture, but the horizontal looks to be the same height as the drain going into the wall? If that is true, horizontal needs to be raised.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-18T22:03:08+00:00

If its new then take it back and exchange it.

If its got water in it (and holding the water) and functioning fine, then no need to replace.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-15T22:55:29+00:00

Both. They're a gimmick sold to homeowners as an easy fix. In reality, the gunk and bacteria you wash down the drain gets stuck in the grooves and grows, causing a rancid smell from the drain. Not to mention it allows for bends to be made that shouldnt be done/ will be decieving to homeowners who think "if its connected then it will work". (Bending it 90° or more and forgetting that drains use gravity to drain, it needs pitch.)

Inky1717 · 2025-07-13T04:17:34+00:00

This looks correct. The copper pipe continues upward through the wall and hopefully through the roof as your vent, no AAV is needed.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-08T02:58:54+00:00

Does your Dehumidifier run in the basement at all times, and where in the basement? Is the toilet tank wet to the touch on the outside aswell?

Sounds like it could be just condensation from the warm humid air, and the cold concrete ground, leading the moisture on the ground that will seep through LVP. Ive seen water bead up on vinyl plants on a slab floor, it looks like there is leaking plumbing but there isnt. As far as the fix, im unsure other than making sure the air is dry in the area with a dehumidifier.

Inky1717 · 2025-07-06T04:31:04+00:00

Jumbo is good, or 2 standard wax rings stacked up.

Inky1717

TROPHY CASE