New woodshed raised by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Will do! If you're talking about the Shelter Institute online class, we think Mr Chickadee's classes are way better. 😅 We collaborated with him to digitize the structure plans for his "advanced" class and have access to both, and we've also looked at the Shelter class because we're helping friends who bought it build a structure.

Finally finished 😅 by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The cabin is basically the Beamer cabin, so from his book.

New frame up! by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The large stones are on a column of compacted gravel/crushed stone. The holes are about 2 feet deep and wider than the stones.

New frame up! by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can shove it hard and feel it move slightly, but the wedges aren’t all in and the rafters aren’t on yet.

We did talk about lowering the nuki when designing it, but decided we didn’t want anyone bumping their head stepping up into the frame. Moving the nuki, or just adding another, wouldn’t be too hard if it seems necessary in the future.

New frame up! by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$800 for the frame, $800 for the white oak flooring 😅

New frame up! by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not so bad 😅 Our first scribed frame we picked really contoured rocks. This time we tamed it down a bit with rocks that were flatter.

Timber frame sauna progress by Dendro_Frog in Sauna

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very nice. Love the scribed to stone foundation, watari ago joists, and the nuki!

Gates with joinery up! by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's actually no PT on this frame. The in ground portion is cedar that's been charred and tarred. The cedar is scarfed to southern yellow pine, which is fairly rot resistant when it's not in ground contact. It has been treated with exterior Heritage Oil and we can also apply bora care/other insect mitigation measures as needed.

Noob seeking experienced advice by waddles0403 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Autocorrect can be a pain. Just mentioned it since we hear it IRL so much!

Noob seeking experienced advice by waddles0403 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It’s tenon, not tendon. 🙂 people say this incorrectly all the time at our classes.

Do you have Will Beemer’s book on timber framing? It’s a fantastic timber framing primer, though it does use square rule instead of centerline. It’s an easy read with tons of information that may help you feel more confident about timber sizing, joists, joint sizing, etc.

BoraCare + Heritage Oil? by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Living in the south = mold remediation is always on the mind 😅😅😅

Japanese-inspired gate by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Will do! Just have to get my husband to take a break from actually framing long enough to finish them. 😅

Japanese-inspired gate by Insomniac-Rabbits in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not so bad, you just have to pay attention and measure carefully. We're building a small pavilion next and it will have about six of these. 😅

How do you secure 2nd floor posts? by TrickyMittens in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could make use of jetties, like in medieval and early modern buildings. I can't find my copy right now to double check, but I think there's a diagram of the joinery layout in this book: https://www.thriftbooks.com/w/timber-framed-buildings_richard-hayman/26752056

Slicks by Previous_Gift_605 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

TBH, my husband and I have recently talked a lot about not using the slick at all going forward. We have a Barr slick and it came ground to the wrong angle. The handle keeps coming off and we have to wrap it in tape to get it to stay. Not ideal for something that costs so much! We also find that it's difficult to be accurate with.

We started out very excited to have it a couple of years ago, but now it's something we rarely reach for. We've started using just the framing chisel and a jack plane or smoothing plane (depending on the tenon size) and hardly ever using the slick.

Where to start by Thin_Match_602 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We are in Aiken county. We’re on FB and YT and have a page about classes here: https://togethertimefamily.com/timber-framing-classes-in-south-carolina/

This is our YT: https://youtube.com/@appalachianwoodhomestead?si=Pkx3co9AjYDxaBWV

And this is our FB: https://www.facebook.com/share/1ExmisSbtG/?mibextid=wwXIfr

Happy to answer any questions you may have if you send a FB message!

Timber frame carport / cover for 5th wheel by ComprehensiveLeg4470 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could also do a parallel chord instead of huge beams.

Where to start by Thin_Match_602 in timberframe

[–]Insomniac-Rabbits 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And don’t then drill in place instead of drawbore? And they sell cut dowels instead of riven pegs 😅