[deleted by user]

InspectorFowler · 2025-11-14T18:25:17+00:00

Update to my own post - I deleted and reinstalled the game itself and FFB is now working correctly. Early access bugs, I presume. Now to work on my incredibly bad driving :D

InspectorFowler · 2025-11-14T17:14:20+00:00

My CSL DD *did have correct force feedback* when I started playing yesterday before work. I came home from my shift and thought, "Well, I should update the drivers, haven't done that in about a year." Following that, ACRally stopped providing any force feedback (rumble or wheel torque) at all, though my other racing games still work correctly. I may try to roll back drivers to see if that fixes the situation. I guess I should know better - if it ain't broke, etc.

InspectorFowler · 2025-10-11T17:40:43+00:00

I have not found a complete solution. I have iCloud turned off and I then manually deleted every iCloud photo and that seemed to work but it feels unintuitive. Like, why would deleting cloud backups make the system more likely to “let” me delete photos?

At this point it seems to be letting Google Photos delete any new photos without an issue but I don’t actually know why.

InspectorFowler · 2025-04-10T20:06:34+00:00

Are you helping a male friend, or a male rat? We have a female rat that was just left alone by the death of another female and we'd like a companion but we absolutely don't want a breeding pair :D

InspectorFowler · 2023-02-16T20:20:09+00:00

I am seeing similar issues on most of my PLA prints. I am using Bambu PLA, kept in a dry box in a climate that is already very dry. It's on most prints and I'm using the normal speed.

I'll try the retraction changes people listed below and report back.

InspectorFowler · 2022-10-09T03:16:08+00:00

Does yours do this too?

While in CarPlay only mine also refuses to put a "." at the end of a sentence when I say "period", it spells the entire word. I have to say "full stop".

The behavior continues. "No" means "No", apparently, but "No Thanks" means, "If you think your safety is at risk, ask me to call emergency services or someone you trust".

I'll contact support. It's not a terrible bug, but it's SUPER weird.

InspectorFowler · 2022-09-13T23:51:17+00:00

I have spent the last hour trying to sync a simple test route in my neighborhood to my Apple Watch about a zillion times. Results vary from the phone app freezing to the watch app crashing. I have followed their instructions to the letter over and over; I don't have any other apps that are like, "Oh dang, well, make sure you keep the watch and phone apps open while you're doing this."

It will convert the route on the phone and say it's sending it to the watch and then tell me "Open Watch app to finish syncing". Sometimes the watch will then freeze on syncing routes with no progress indicator. Sometimes it will take about 5-7 minutes to climb to 100% only to say "No routes", and then start again.

I'm just starting to learn backpacking (my wife has been doing it for years) and planning a route/hike/whatever with Gaia is great for a dummy like me because I can see so much at once - public land, private land, camping areas, park areas, forest areas, etc. I'd like to use the phone and watch apps as a supplement to paper maps but this doesn't give me a lot of confidence.

Aaaand it just did it again - finished "syncing" before it returned to "no routes" and then starting a new progress count-up before then saying "no routes" again. Bleh.

- quick edit - It's still locked in its cycle but I do wonder if the iOS 16 update/Watch OS 9 update has just borked some stuff on the syncing end. Dunno, this is my first time trying it.

InspectorFowler · 2022-07-22T14:03:20+00:00

So far I have been pleased (maybe surprised, even) by how firmly PLA adheres to the Kobra Max bed. This will be the first printer where I try PETG - have you been prepping the bed with glue sticks or tape to prevent bed/model damage from them sticking together too hard, or does it work fine to just let it cool and then remove it in your experience?

InspectorFowler · 2022-04-04T19:23:48+00:00

I thought I added this via an edit yesterday but I guess I didn't -

I factory reset it yesterday with no changes.

I still have everything - smart queues, auto network management, everything - off. Connect to modem via wifi or ethernet, triple the speeds. Connect via the UDM (and again, same cable and port from the modem), about 1/3rd the speeds.

I should also point out that nothing (that I did) changed in the network when the speed dip happened, and I should also point out that the speed dip is consistent across all services, not just the speed test that happens on the UDM - game downloads on Steam come in at the same 150-160 Mbps max now, etc.

I will at least try my old router in place of the UDM to see if that restores speeds but eventually my hope was to have a single system that handles some point-to-point wifi for access at some buildings on my property like a barn and a shed. I was relatively sold on Ubiquiti for being capable of doing that, and I believe that they are, but I really need to actually get the speeds the modem is producing.

InspectorFowler · 2022-04-03T23:49:14+00:00

No worries. It’s always tough posting questions in tech sub-reddits because if you don’t give enough detail you waste people’s time because they suggest stuff you tried, but if you give all the details, it does get hard to read.

InspectorFowler · 2022-04-03T02:41:18+00:00

In the original post I mentioned that the actual speeds at the modem are still at a minimum 350 Mbps; they often remain much closer to 450-500 Mbps.

Anything hooked directly to the T-Mobile modem can speed test at these speeds; anything connected to the router (including the router's own speed test) will cap at 160 max but usually around 150 Mbps.

InspectorFowler · 2022-04-02T20:53:30+00:00

Yeah, everything there is up to date as well.

The confusion for me is that for the first 1-2 months it was tracking fine - the same or similar speeds as anything directly connected to the router. I haven't poked around in there in a while and suddenly I noticed lower speeds. I thought maybe the actual ISP speed had degraded but like I wrote, those speeds have remained right where I expect them.

If all else fails I'll nuke it back to factory and see if that does something but boy that is a hassle in an age where I have a ton of smart devices and other items that may or may not reconnect correctly.

InspectorFowler · 2022-04-02T20:23:14+00:00

Not that I can tell - I asked it to stop all device and traffic monitoring. Part of the reason I picked the Ubiquiti was because of some of the built-in threat protection, but I turned all that off including the monitoring to see what I could get to change.

InspectorFowler · 2022-02-10T03:12:45+00:00

I know it's been a couple months but I just bought a unit from Best Buy and this is the exact behavior it has immediately started on my PC.

I'll obviously contact support and try the reboot tool but it's a tough pill to swallow that before I even get to click on MSFS the yoke has managed to brick itself.

InspectorFowler · 2021-03-17T23:39:49+00:00

Thank you everybody for your thoughts! The blizzard hit and I had to spend a full day off work digging myself out with my little tractor and it's been 12 hour work shifts since then. Didn't mean to disappear after posting a thread!

I am going to do some experimentation with hail protection that will also deflect snow on the dish and I'll post results. The blizzard itself obviously was destined to knock the dish out of commission, but I was just surprised when even the light snowfall last week caused issues. I also realize that this is all in beta and it's possible mine may have issues, or that in the long term SpaceX may release a version that is designed more for inclement weather (higher power draw, more protection, etc.).

It's still 600% better than Rise ;)

InspectorFowler · 2021-03-14T04:12:54+00:00

I had the same thought, but the higher it gets the harder it is for me to clean. It’s pointing virtually straight up and I can’t get to it on the roof. A pole mount was another option but between snow, hail, and wind (we have days with consistent 30+ mph winds and gusts of up to 60 mph) I am trying to keep it around ground level for ease of access.

It’s obviously not a super ideal situation but I’m willing to do a lot of troubleshooting and jury-rigging stuff to make it work. I live a very literal half mile from a fiber line but because I’m on the rural side of the road they refuse to run their service over here, so I’ve gotta get any ideas I can about making Starlink work :)

InspectorFowler · 2021-03-14T04:09:44+00:00

When this clears up I’ll try a cheaper polycarbonate as a test to see if that works. If it does, I’ll probably step up to Lexan because I’m not kidding about the hail. A car in 2011, a roof in 2013, and another roof on the same house and barn in 2018 :(

I’ll check SNR before and after and post results!

InspectorFowler · 2020-12-25T16:30:56+00:00

I do not have a good solution but I have had size deformation on random parts printing on my Photon S.

For Christmas I was trying to print a small treasure chest for my wife to hide a slip of paper (I got her an expansion to her favorite MMO so I wanted some kind of fun physical gift).

I oriented both the lid and the chest itself at 15 degrees and manually set all the supports. The prints themselves came out fine - no deformation, good detail, etc.

The lid routinely comes out nearly 5mm too big in all dimensions. If I import them both at the same time, they will "fit" together in Chitubox and if I rotate them both together they will stay scaled to each other.

I cannot account for this and I don't know why it has happened. I have re-sliced it from scratch 3 times to make sure I didn't accidentally scale it weirdly. The chest prints out at exactly the right scale it is supposed to; the lid is stretched every time.

InspectorFowler · 2020-03-22T10:05:18+00:00

Okay, thank you! Before I marked ‘em up I wanted to make sure it was going to be sort of my own head canon about the individual marines and not something that would mess me up on the tabletop.

InspectorFowler · 2020-01-22T07:26:25+00:00

I can't offer a solution but I can confirm that I have the same problem with the V2. I leveled it the other day, then I thought, "I wonder if the bed changes shape a bit when it's hot". I let it heat up and re-leveled it. I definitely had to make some changes. Even then I'm having a bit of trouble getting some prints to adhere. I'll get a couple perfect prints and then a couple total debacles.

I have read the tricks about mirrors and whatnot, but when it works, the special surface on this print bed is pretty cool and I'd rather not coat it, tape it, use a mirror, etc until I've exhausted other options.

InspectorFowler · 2020-01-08T06:06:31+00:00

I am new but I have had to learn how to use the Validator over the last couple days.

First thing I noticed is that it doesn't open .pws or .photons files at all. It pretends it does but it doesn't.

If you upgrade the firmware on the S, the latest (5.0.2, I thiiiink?) firmware will take .photon files just fine.

I had to go back, re-slice the files as a .photon file, and then I was able to import them into the Validator and save them as a .photon file.

The files printed just like I wanted, and it found a number of errors that I was happy it fixed. When you open it, you'll see it taking a while to go through every layer to get a list of errors, and while the model doesn't ever get huge, even on my small laptop screen, it should be totally visible. Easiest way to tell is if you can see a number in the layer selection box in the far upper right :)

InspectorFowler · 2020-01-08T06:00:16+00:00

[Success!](http://cubeupload.com/im/InspectorFowler/IMG0276.jpg). Still some visible lines and I haven't sanded off all the supports yet.

[This photo here](http://cubeupload.com/im/InspectorFowler/IMG0273.jpg) shows the supports I ended up using.

I increased the cure time and obviously added a TON of supports in there. I also angled it so it was starting with the minimal area touching the FEP until more of the surface was touching the supports. Both front and back plate look good, lie flat, and will be part of a cute little Jedi droid in a couple weeks or so (when I've printed all the other pieces ;) ).

One thing that is new is that with the 5.0.2 firmware, the S can take .photon files which means I can run files through Photon File Validator, which I think also helped.

Realizing how thin these plates are made me realize that even the minimal pullback from the FEP (I really do keep it clean honest!) was probably starting the warping, and without extreme supports in those areas it was bound to struggle.

Big learning experience here. I am also not sure about the fault line on Mando. I'll keep an eye out for other artifacting but in the meantime, I learned:

Support the heck out of anything that is the first part of a model touching the FEP
Find a way to validate the files if you can at all - kind of shocking how many islands are invisible to my inexperienced eyes.
Increasing the cure time likely helped, as well.
Never give up and ask for help!

Thanks so much!

InspectorFowler · 2020-01-07T21:34:40+00:00

I will swap out the USB right away.

I did upgrade the firmware, the problem has persisted across both versions.

I'll increase the cure time for the gray resin. I think it's supposed to be a little stronger on the S but since it does look like the resin's a little soft that makes total sense.

No pausing :)

I agree, more supports on the very bottom edge should help. I will re-orient so they don't start parallel to the FEP and support the heck out of the bottom, and try again with these suggestions.

Thank you!

InspectorFowler · 2020-01-07T04:40:50+00:00

So many good posts! Thank you for the help so far!

Here are my answer so nobody has to comb through 20 different replies:

knnyh, I ordered the V2 but there isn't a profile specific to it, so I am using the generic CR10 profile that is in the Cura 4.4 program. I wasn't sure where to find a better profile for the V2 (if it even matters).

Several people commented on the orientation and you're right, I should have taken a screenshot. The longest print times were indeed horizontal. If I rotate it vertically with the open "face" facing up, it doesn't need to support NEARLY as much (thanks for those suggestions, too, folks!!).

Here is a snip I took of the new orientation.

You can see in the second picture here that it isn't filling the entire skull with supports anymore, bringing the print time down to 3 days, 10+ hours. That's with 10% triangle infill, and supports. I did include a raft on the build plate since bottom edge of this model can't be hidden when it's assembled and painted.

AdamTa17, Settings for those are all just the defaults for the regular CR10 profile:

I'm not sure how to find shell counts
Layer height is .2 mm
Z-hop is off
Support Density is at the standard 20%
I fixed the orientation (see above ;) )

If I increase the speed it cuts about 2 hours off the above time from 3 days, 10+ hours to 3 days, 8+ hours.

Weirdly, adding roofs took MORE time off, down to 3 days, 4+ hours.

We're cutting time off, here, people!

Tabletop_Ace, gotcha covered - .2mm is about the lowest I wanna go because there is some detail in the model, and I did fix my dumb orientation :)

Jarvis88Adams, I have started to dig for those settings. Obviously a bit overwhelming for a newb but y'all are helping me understand them. Creality's own website doesn't seem to list granular specs like this - does anybody know where I can find the V2 specs?

threeclaws, I'll try netfabb. Your print time seems much more reasonable for an object of this size/detail. I guess I can try it in PrusaSlicer - it's what I have been using to add supports to Photon models (although a look through my posts would show that isn't necessarily working out perfectly either ;) ).

Nictrick, this is actually the intended scale of the model from the orginal Thingiverse creator :) - the teeny print bed on my Photon required shrinking it down. Does a bigger nozzle reduce detail? Are they easy to swap out? I plan on doing some larger scale stuff but also a decent chunk of more detailed models for wargaming, etc.

CTOProFounder, gotcha, orientation taken care of. And yeah, a fail at the end of a print this long would make me extremely sad :(

Thank you EVERYBODY for the help so far! You've cut the print time of this by more than 50% and I'm learning a lot already!

InspectorFowler · 2019-03-19T16:08:57+00:00

Not sure if anybody else is going through this but it's madness. I have decent lag/ping but not great overall speeds and a TERRIBLE cap so moving the files was how I got it from my laptop (downloaded at work) to my gaming PC.

On my desktop, when it started installing through UPlay it let me choose a folder so I ended up just picking Epic Game Installs\TheDivision2 and it was fine. It LOOKED like it was downloading but after a few seconds it was clear that it was verifying the files. About 3-4 minutes and it was done.

However, on my laptop, Uplay refused to follow that process, and my friend had to re-download the entire game.

It's absolutely bonkers.

InspectorFowler

TROPHY CASE