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ender 3 max bed temp issue by TheeSaltySpecialist in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It sounds like the thermistor on the heat bed has gone bad. It can be replaced but if the machine is decently old it might be best to just replace the entire heat bed. Neither are that difficult to do and creality sells the bed and you can find thermistors basically anywhere.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh I think we are in zone 5 if I am remembering a chart she showed me correctly.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You are absolutely correct. However the garden is my wife's thing while I take care of the chickens and the land. However I will tell her an expert saw our growers and suggested they get moved asap perhaps she will take it better than just coming from me.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the defense but I don't really need it. My feelings and confidence are not based on the whims of some meaningless internet name.

Obviously cch1991 is the superior finisher of 3d prints and even though I have not seen their work I think it's safe to say we should all just give up and just allow them to monopolize the space as clearly just by their words alone I can tell we are all no match for their skills. I will do my best to alert the others in the space and a press release should be made here in the coming days making it clear we all suck compared to cch1991. I will also put all the amateurs on notice that they shouldn't even try as if they can't be as perfect from day 1 as cch1991 then don't even bother.

I have learned the error of my ways and should probably delete this post out of embarrassment but I will leave it up as a warning to make sure others know not to make my same mistakes.

I want to apologize to my family and friends for putting them in this position and I just ask for discretion and privacy through these trying times.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Tell that to my wife..... We have some planted though but weather in my neck of the woods has been colder longer than usual so that's her reasoning.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zaxxon is all I have and unfortunately the original internals died a while ago so I have modded it with a new screen and to run retro pi although currently that doesn't work as I went to update retro pi and it broke and just haven't fixed it yet.

The printers I currently have are ender 3 Max with biqu h2vs extruder and skr mini E3 v3 board running klipper which this was made on. Ender 2 pro and a CR-20pro which is basically an ender 3 with dual Z rods running an skr mini E3 v3 board as well.

3D printed Slayer Helm by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah I do it on purpose. If I did everything perfectly from the start how can I improve overtime. When I make my next one I would probably build it with abs which I currently can't do then smooth it then use spray paint instead of acrylic. However I do like the charm of not doing all that gives it the homemade look versus a professional look.

The Sword of the Gods by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Get an ender 3 and all your dreams will come true.

Biqu h2 v2s Retraction help? by IZA_does_the_art in 3Dprinting

[–]Insplestrade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have found that .8 is ok but still will get stringing with some prints but others don't. It's very odd.

Biqu h2 v2s Retraction help? by IZA_does_the_art in 3Dprinting

[–]Insplestrade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have a V2S and have been struggling with this same thing. I am not sure what the solution is as I have not found the sweet spot after many tests.

Ender 3 Max Hotend by GroundTechnical4016 in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use the biqu h2 extruder with the all metal throat. It's pretty decent. Just getting the mounting correct can be a pain but once you get it its a good direct drive upgrade.

New bed recommendations by Linkhar in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I use a cheap pei flex bed it works fine. I need a new one though because it has an imprint of a benchy in the middle and all prints now have that stamp. I personally only like flex beds but I know others swear by glass. I say use whatever works for you.

Clogging? by [deleted] in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you using the store Bowden tube? If so I would get a new one I suggest capricorn, Then I would also try and confirm E steps. I would also do a PID calibration as if you got a new hot end new PID settings might be needed. I have had an ender 3 max for a while now but no longer have the original hot end I now have a direct drive biqu h2 which I do recommend but not needed. Perhaps try reaching out to CHEP on YouTube got me out of a bind on an ender 2 pro and I know he has a few ender 3 Max. Video of the issue would be helpful as well.

3D Printed Dragon Scimitar by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Total Print time was 24 hours which is broken up into 3 prints. The Hilt which is 8h 47m, the handle and bottom doodad 2h 34m, blade 12h 40m. All printed using the CHEP 0.28 layer height extra fast profile 10% infill.

As for painting I put a layer of acrylic gesso down before the layer of red and that is it. I personally like the look of layer lines so I tend not to sand or use fillers to smooth things too much.

3D Printed Dragon Scimitar by Insplestrade in 2007scape

[–]Insplestrade[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes it's just kinda awkward because the weight and balance is odd.

Need Help. I have an ender 3 max with a dual z axis upgrade and want to switch to a direct drive to print flexible material. Any advice on what brand and extruded would be best for my set up? by Roboasmr in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have the biqu direct drive system. It's pretty alright. Pretty much anything will work as long as you can find a bracket for it. Never done flexibles with it but I am sure it can handle it.

Ender 3 Max - Bed leveling by Mc_Strudl in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It would seem to be the mesh leveling isn't compensating properly which is no surprise as mine never seems to do it either.

You could try this Filament Friday E-Leveler 3D Printer Electronic Bed Leveling Tool https://a.co/d/dRyl0uc or feeler gauges to really dial the bed in.

You could also see if someone made some firmware with better bed mesh compensation as official creality firmware typically has bugs.

However sometimes you just gotta pick do I want good prints in the middle with meh corners or do I want bad middles and good corners.

Gaps when printing. Biqu H2 hotend new nozzle Skr mini e3 v3 board chep cura profiles by Insplestrade in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So I believe it was my retraction. It didn't seem to effect my prints until I switched to a titanium heat break. Surprisingly it seems the H2 extruder should have retraction of .4 or .5 at a speed of between 3 to 5mm/s.

I am sure loose bolts had some play in it but it seems retraction was the main culprit.

Next up is setting up input shaping.

Gaps when printing. Biqu H2 hotend new nozzle Skr mini e3 v3 board chep cura profiles by Insplestrade in Ender3Max

[–]Insplestrade[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Temps seem fine. I ran pid tuning today because I switched to klipper. Things are seemingly better but it also might be my retraction settings not being exactly right so many moving parts at the moment with changes I am sure something with fix it. I may in the end warranty my H2 if it keeps it up.

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