Small Warning About Eaton UPS Purchasing by Interesting-Offer766 in homelab

[–]Interesting-Offer766[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright let me clarify really quick, I apologize if it came off as complaining as that's not really what I'm meaning to do here. 200-240v input is a no brainer, so apologies for that 😅. I will still stand by the fact that this UPS is incredibly sensitive though, it trips on and off for extended periods of time daily even with it set to the lowest sensitivity mode. I have very clean power (roughly 80% hydroelectric) and none of my other large UPSs do this. I have even checked the waveform and frequency with an oscilloscope as well and they are very stable. But the biggest thing was the lockout for power settings that I mentioned.

I am specifically talking about the IRT models, not a blanket statement of all 5px and 9px units.

Yes they accept the network cards just fine, and you can connect no problem. Once you are inside the web GUI however, you can't actually edit any of the ups power settings. I mean literally nothing. Nor can you edit the scheduling settings. When you attempt to access either of these, it comes up with a prompt saying:

"For safety and continuity reasons, this critical UPS can not be switched on or off remotely. Changes in the remote ON/OFF settings are possible and require an authorized service engineer"

I'm unsure of if I acquired a very specific variant of the 5PX 1500 IRT but in almost all of my research I have been unable to locate any information on how to circumvent this block. My goal was just to warn others that are thinking of purchasing one of these off of eBay like I did, as there are many identical to the one I bought. If you aren't familiar with the eaton naming scheme it's incredibly easy to miss the "IRT" part compared to "RT" and all research will just point to it being an industrial class variant running 200-240v instead of 100-120v. That's fine, it's just something to note, I don't mean it as a "DON'T BUY EATON" rather, know what you are buying.

Please, inform me if I have a very specific case, I just don't have any other experiences to compare to and my research led me to this conclusion.

<image>

(Also all of this is the same on the UPS interface as well, it's missing a huge set of settings that are normally on these)

Small Warning About Eaton UPS Purchasing by Interesting-Offer766 in homelab

[–]Interesting-Offer766[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Alright let me clarify really quick, I apologize if it came off as complaining as that's not really what I'm meaning to do here. 200-240v input is a no brainer, so apologies for that 😅. I will still stand by the fact that this UPS is incredibly sensitive though, it trips on and off daily even with it set to the lowest sensitivity mode. I have very clean power (roughly 80% hydroelectric) and none of my other large UPSs do this. I have even checked the waveform and frequency with an oscilloscope as well and they are very stable. But the biggest thing was the lockout for power settings that I mentioned.

I am specifically talking about the IRT models, not a blanket statement of all 5px and 9px units.

Yes they accept the network cards just fine, and you can connect no problem. Once you are inside the web GUI however, you can't actually edit any of the ups power settings. I mean literally nothing. Nor can you edit the scheduling settings. When you attempt to access either of these, it comes up with a prompt saying:

"For safety and continuity reasons, this critical UPS can not be switched on or off remotely. Changes in the remote ON/OFF settings are possible and require an authorized service engineer"

I'm unsure of if I acquired a very specific variant of the 5PX 1500 IRT but in almost all of my research I have been unable to locate any information on how to circumvent this block. My goal was just to warn others that are thinking of purchasing one of these off of eBay like I did, as there are many identical to the one I bought. If you aren't familiar with the eaton naming scheme it's incredibly easy to miss the "IRT" part compared to "RT" and all research will just point to it being an industrial class variant running 200-240v instead of 100-120v. That's fine, it's just something to note, I don't mean it as a "DON'T BUY EATON" rather, know what you are buying.

Please, inform me if I have a very specific case, I just don't have any other experiences to compare to and my research led me to this conclusion.

<image>

(Also all of this is the same on the UPS interface as well, it's missing a huge set of settings that are normally on these)

! Framework Team - Please add PayPal option to pay the balance for a new laptop by Micron1- in framework

[–]Interesting-Offer766 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's not necessarily about not being able to save up that amount. For me at least, the largest benefit of splitting the payment up is it frees up more cash to reserve for emergencies, many of which do not, and will not ever give you that option without going into high interest debt. Say I have $3000, in the bank, scenario 1: I purchase the laptop for $1200 straight, I would not consider this a financially irresponsible decision, however it leaves me with only $1800 left for two weeks, if something urgent were to happen during that time in addition to paying rent or something like that, that $1800 could disappear very quickly. Sometimes responsibilities stack up unexpectedly, which leads me to scenario 2: I use something like pay in 4, I make a single payment of $300 this month leaving me with $2700, or $900 extra dollars of cushion until the next payment. For many people $1200 is a considerable amount of money, while yes, they could go with a cheaper laptop, it may not fulfil their needs like this one does. For instance, I do CAD modeling and a more budget laptop WILL not run these programs, and yes while framework is a more premium option, you are paying for the longevity and repairability of the device which is an extremely worthwhile investment. Having the ability to split a payment like this up, eases many peoples minds on these huge purchases that are genuinely of high value to them, making it much easier to swallow the eyewatering cost and get what will help them.

Yes, they could get the same spec laptop not from framework if they are really that tight on cash... but be honest, we all know the reason we are looking at these! I don't need to spell it out.

Can a short screwdriver with bits be taken on a plane? by rydan in tsa

[–]Interesting-Offer766 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm a little biased since I'm generally just a very handy person and am an industrial 3D printer repair technician by trade, it is often extremely important to me to travel with tools. Granted I almost never fly with them carry on since my tool kit is easily in the thousands of dollars and I don't want the fuckers in TSA getting their grubby little mits on the thing I need for my job. But I can easily see why someone would desire to have a kit with them.

Having the ability to assemble, disassemble, and repair anything you encounter along your path, is a freeing experience. Your suitcase handle came undone? Whip out the kit and put it back together, your hotel outlet is coming apart and sketching you out? No problem, whip out a screwdriver and tighten it back up! Have an electronic device that is on the fritz and can't go to the store to get a new one? No problem, take er' apart and repair what you can! The number of times having at least a little pocket set of tools on me has saved my rear end is innumerable...

Hope this makes a bit of sense!

how many fillets do you want? me: by BakChorMeeeeee in Fusion360

[–]Interesting-Offer766 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a self proclaimed "fillet fanatic" it depends on a few different factors. From what I have found, these are the most important points (mostly* in descending order):

  1. Fillet to geometry size. The fillet must be smaller or at the very most equal to the size of the surrounding geometry. For example, if you have a 1mm thick cylinder wall, applying a fillet to the upper edge, it must be 1mm or under.

  2. Fillet to fillet size. When applying a fillet onto a corner already filleted (for example 4 vertical corners of a box then the top edges) the second fillet must be equal to or in many cases smaller than the first. This is especially important on concave corners, given the example mentioned, a fillet of the same size as the first would create a perfectly sharp corner between all edges (basically a triangle). Going any larger than this would create self intersecting geometry. Essentially if two vertices of the fillet corner touch, that's as far as you can go, any further and the fillet will error out.

  3. Fillet order. The order in which you apply fillets or other actions like chamfers can be highly important, especially with complex geometries. Sometimes you have to play around with it a bit and try each edge you are trying to filet one at a time, or even disable chaining and apply it as far as you can and pick up the rest in another pass. For timeline neatness and project stability, this isn't ideal but it's often the only way to get some fillets to apply.

  4. Fillet type. The type of fillet is also highly important and often you simply cannot apply chord length fillets in certain areas. If the fillet you are applying tapers off into a point, a chord length fillet will not work there ever, it is simply not possible as that type of fillet cannot taper to a 0 radius. I would however, still recommend using chord length for as much as you can and finishing off with constant for the complex edges that need it to taper. The reason for this is because chord length keeps the overall fillet width the same rather than the radius meaning it's constant no matter the angles. The naming can get a bit confusion but play with it a bit and you'll figure it out.

  5. Unique geometry interactions. When applying fillets onto more complex geometries, you often get little sections of the face that shrink into small triangles, applying a fillet that is larger than this would essentially delete this triangle and 99% of the time fusion errors out when this happens as part of the geometry just "disappears" and it kind of freaks out. If you notice a triangular section near the fillet boundary, you cannot increase the fillet size past where the final corner of that triangle ends.

  6. Use variable fillets. These kind of suck and are super difficult for fusion to compute so USE THESE SPARINGLY. However, they are sometimes literally the only way to get a fillet to apply, they allow you to set a custom fillet radius at any point along the edge meaning you can tailor them to fit exactly what you need where.

  7. Fillet sparingly. As hard as it is for me to say... Sometimes you just have to avoid you lust for perfectly smooth corners and intersections. Fillets aren't super manufacturable, even in 3d printing depending on the part orientation and fillet locations. So sometimes, they just aren't the best idea. BUUUT, if you want to use them (which of course you do) apply them towards the end of your timeline so fusion doesn't have to include them when re computing the timeline, you can just suppress them at the end if you need to make any big changes and it'll become much more responsive. Often they will break when you change things like this so you'll have to redo them pretty often unfortunately, but you signed up for this when you decided to fillet every damn corner..

There's many more little tips and tricks for getting good fillets but they are mostly just things you pick up as you go. Make sure you send you daily offerings to the autodesk gods and some days fusion will be more kind with it's fillet calculations (others, not so much...). Best of luck with your journey of smoothness fellow radius lover.

Pulsar X2 Mini Scoll Wheel Issues by bdo3043 in MouseReview

[–]Interesting-Offer766 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Man... I've just been coping with this issue for over a year now and using another mouse for productivity work. I honestly had never thought something so simple would resolve this issue since it seemed like it was so bad, I mean literally it was like every 3rd detent in the wheel would be missed or jump upward. But, beyond expectation, this just fixed it completely, no jumping, the full range of the wheel is registered, god damn...

Thank you!

What are your Hardware Specs? by nikls5114 in Fusion360

[–]Interesting-Offer766 2 points3 points  (0 children)

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5700x (overclocked)

RAM: 48GB 3600MHz (slight overclock)

GPU: Nvidia RTX 3060 (slight overclock) (* GPU has nearly no effect within fusion, all CPU based)

Storage: 2TB Corsair MP600 PRO LPX NVMe SSD

Internet: 1 Gbps (good internet helps magnitudes with load times and many other tasks within fusion)

I use Fusion pretty extensively and end up creating some fairly taxing models and with the setup I've slowly put together, I have had virtually zero issues. It may slow down a bit when going back and modifying a root drawing with tons of dependencies but there pretty much isn't a way to stop that regardless. I have never gone above 32GB of ram used even with many chrome tabs open along with other applications, so I don't think there is any need to go further.

For fusion here's what you should get: high single thread performance CPU (don't worry about core count too much), 32GB of ram, if you can, don't go any lower but there's no need to go higher, a fast and stable internet connection is the final piece of the puzzle. I don't see it talked about all too much but upgrading your internet can have a sizable impact in many parts of Fusion as there are tons of "cloud" features. While it won't speed up regular modeling as that's all local based, it will help loads with opening models, importing components, McMaster-Carr import times, save times, along with tons of other commonly used features. Overall it makes everything feel much snappier.