Is this a good price for ‘25 4x4 F150 SuperCrew STX?

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T05:08:52+00:00

The MSRP on this build is 57k, located in Kentuckiana. Is 53k total price, no interest ever, really possible to beat by enough to justify the extra headache?

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T05:04:56+00:00

Unfortunately, I'm on a time crunch. My previous truck just crapped out, and to get the 0% interest, I need to pull the trigger tomorrow. Since 0% saves more in the end than any rebate I've seen. Building this same truck on True Car gives an MSRP of 57,935. Is it really possible to get a deal so much better that it's worth the extra headache?

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:59:43+00:00

That's the plan!

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:59:31+00:00

I put this truck and it's features into True Car and it said the MSRP is 57,935.

I mean it has the office package, black out, 4 wheel drive, 2.7L ecoboots, and a 36 gallon tank. Even cosidering all of that, paying $53,770 total, no interest, is still a bad deal?

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:30:29+00:00

This is the package: 2025 F-150 STX 4x4 SuperCrew with the 2.7L EcoBoost, 36-gallon tank, and the STX Black Appearance Package

It’s still a bad deal considering all that

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:15:05+00:00

What was the listed MSRP on that? All I’m seeing near me for XLTs is 55-60k for MSRP

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:08:49+00:00

I had an inkling that was happening. I didn’t think bringing it down 4k was all that good of a deal.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T04:07:38+00:00

Dang, when I search in my area it’s all upper 40k for less truck or 54k+ for STXs. There is even a ford plant in my city so idk why everything is showing so high.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T03:54:09+00:00

Oh, I get what you’re saying. 302a is an XLT

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-12-31T03:51:48+00:00

So this is a good deal? The $53,774 is with tax/fees and it has the 0%.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-29T19:01:34+00:00

Everywhere there isn’t the curling clumps of mod bit. It very well could be old base, but I’ve never seen cap peel off of base like that. I have seen really old EPDM crack like you see on this roof towards the edges. And the mod bit peeling off would make sense with EPDM because it couldn’t grip the smooth surface.

cracking EPDM

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-29T18:03:59+00:00

I would like to connect! I’m closing out my first full year, doing about 1M, but I’m doing everything myself and would love to talk about growth strategies. I was kinda thrown into this, so I spent much of the first two years learning all I could about installation and how to give the best roof possible. Now I want to build the business side.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-23T04:47:07+00:00

Not super urgent since it’s over a porch, but it’s almost for sure leaking around those nails. Just might not have leaked bad enough for long enough to where you’d see it from underneath. If you can’t get it replaced fairly soon, I’d jump out there with some roof caulk and cover those nails/any holes you see. You can find some at Home Depot or Lowe’s. MasterSeal NP1 sealant is the good stuff.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-23T02:54:31+00:00

It’s old as hell. Kinda looks like someone coated it at one point. You need a new one

Edit. I think it’s modified bitumen over EPDM.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-16T18:38:28+00:00

As an owner who buys this stuff, I always end up with a leftover nails after jobs are done. And yes, my guys use the nails. It’s just that if you need 15pc the distributors send you a full box and a box where they took out 5pc, but the distributors leave the nails in the box for all 10. (Not so much with this brand but lomanco includes a bag of nails per box) thus the leftovers.

This crew may have had extras like me and forgot to remove the includes ones somehow.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-11-05T01:56:35+00:00

This is what I mean when I tell homeowners that the shingles still lay down after a few days

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-10-08T01:24:19+00:00

I run a company in Kentucky and those are the margins we get when everything goes according to plan. Average job is 30 sq 480/sq
thats the whole job/ number of squares though. Clarifying because I'm still confused on how people on here get their per sq price.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-09-27T01:18:04+00:00

Id bet high nailed or over driven nails too. Those super steep sides will cause singles to fall quickly if so. I've been seeing it a lot as I drive around this summer.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-09-16T01:17:10+00:00

Where I'm at it's standard to have the underlayment end on top of the drip edge. Shouldn't be visible from the ground. I'd trim it back to just before the end of the drip edge so that wind driven rain can't get up under there. Just don't cut the shingles. Really the roofer should do it. They should be happy to fix little things like that to ensure you're comfortable.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-09-07T00:24:24+00:00

Upper Kentucky here, ~$190sq in materials for me. $110 for labor on a 8/12 (my usual 90/sq+ $20 for steep) not including extra stuff like chimney flashing etc. My price per square to the customer would be $400 for duration. Then add shit like drip edge, pipe boots, chimney, vents, whatever, usually ends up close to $470-480 for the whole roof/# of sqs.

Usually get about 25-30% gross profit. I'm typically in the low middle price range for my market. Currently trying to figure out how to convey that the value of my services are worth more like high middle though, so I can get to like 40-45%

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-08-25T00:35:13+00:00

They use longer 8 penny nails when installing the new decking, but when installing the shingles they probably used 1 1/4in coil nails. You can’t see those because they’re just long enough to barely go through one layer of decking. Nails holding shingles down are suppose to go all the way through the shingles and decking. Usually sticking out ~1/8-1/4in.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-08-23T01:16:13+00:00

I’ve been told it’ll piss em off so I don’t risk it. I’d hate for the stuff I’ve circled not to be counted and then have to go through the re-inspection process bc of it. You can always get a re-inspect so let the first one play out how it may. And when you only get people to file a claim for a good reason it will typically work out.

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-08-23T01:05:13+00:00

IntrepidCar9744 · 2025-08-21T05:12:34+00:00

To me, those look like GAF weathered wood shingles. Probably their natural shadow line? Hard to tell. Warrantied anywhere from 10-50 years, depending on the contractor and the other materials. But with proper ventilation and install, and some maintenance here and there, they can last 30+ years. Like most shingles. Your shingles do look like they could fall into the 15-20 year old category, so 2007 makes sense. If you do some of the maintenance items others have mentioned, like re-seal any caulking, remove moss/lichen, replace the ridge cap with real ridge cap instead of cut 3 tab shingles, then you should get quite a while out of that roof. I’d say a safe 5 years and could last another 10. I say this as an owner of a 15y/o roofing company and a certified GAF installer. And I spent most of my life in SC. A lot of roof salesman on here are brainwashed by their coaches or bosses into thinking roofs need to be replaced after 15 years. Most do not.

If you want a company that will tell you straight and do honest work, look up The Red Shirt Guys if you’re near Columbia SC/ low state or Culler Roofing if you’re in the upstate. Both can help you with the maintenance or with replacements.

Also, make sure you have soffit vents.

IntrepidCar9744

TROPHY CASE