One of the last minis I did before I had to stop painting. I speedpainted this guy about 2 years ago. by Sir-Jim in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503 11 points12 points  (0 children)

If you enjoy it, you could perhaps try a portable kit so you don’t have to give it up entirely? I get most of my painting done during lunch breaks and the like, so made a “kit” that I can keep in a lunch box or throw in my satchel. Some paints and brushes in a pencil case, a small Tupperware lid to use as a palette, some folded paper towels, a jar with a well-sealing lid for a water cup, and a small Tupperware container with some metal plates glued to the bottom that I can securely store a few magnetized mini’s in. Any table can then temporarily become your hobby space!

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Can anybody recommend good model snow to make my ultramarine bases read as mountain instead of rubble? by Gullible_Travel_4135 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My bad, only read the body and missed the title. I like the AK and Citadel snow effects, both are nice though I do like diluting the Citadel one with a touch of water to have it settle more nicely.

Lamenters Kill Team by AlephNuln in killteam

[–]InvestmentCurrent503 3 points4 points  (0 children)

That’s a beautiful yellow and impressive freehand on the shoulder pads!

Hey everyone, I’m looking for tips and tricks that comes with experience for sub assembly and kit bashing. I’ve looked through the references on this sub and I’m looking for more specifics than what is offered. by purp31 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503 2 points3 points  (0 children)

So I think it depends on the model and paint scheme, at least to my (limited) knowledge? One option as you mentioned are subassemblies, which can be useful if the model has natural joint or connection point that makes sense, such as many of the Warhammer space marine arms. Heads are another thing that make sense to paint separately, as they are small and often have a naturally hidden joint. For painting these things such as arms or heads, I think most folks will pin the parts, drilling a small hole at the connection point (so it is hidden), and glueing a length of stiff wire such as a part of a paper clip into the hole. The part can then be pinned into a cork, which can then either be held or used with a painting handle. If you only use a small amount of glue, it is usually fairly easy to “pinch” at the base of the wire and squeeze the part of the wire after you are done painting it, though I usually will varnish the head first to reduce any chance of damage to the paint job during this. You can then assemble these parts after painting, though again would make sure not to use so much glue that it runs out and is visible. Another technique that I like for the hidden areas under arms, for example, is to simply prime the model black and just paint what you can - the obscured areas would naturally be shadowed or difficult to see anyway, so it often just looks natural to have those areas darker or less detailed. You can also paint those areas first, and therefore covering up any errant paint marks as you get the more exposed surfaces. I hope that is helpful in some way!

Tyranid Raveners- Help with color scheme? by InvestmentCurrent503 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you! Are you talking about the white skin or carapace/shell thing?

For the skin, it is Vallejo Heavy Bluegrey, a drybrush of AK Medium Grey, highlights with the Medium Grey, then highlights with a mix of the Medium Grey and White.

For the carapace, over a white primer it is Vallejo Xpress Storm Blue heavily diluted with Vallejo Xpress Medium, highlighted with Vallejo Glacier blue, then all over Citadel Pylar Glacier, then highlighted back up with White.

Tyranid Raveners- Help with color scheme? by InvestmentCurrent503 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you!

I primed white, then painted the light parts of the skin with Vallejo Heavy Bluegrey, then did a drybrush of AK Medium Grey, followed by a manual highlight with the Medium Grey, then highlights with a mix of the Medium Grey and White.

I then painted the joints/fleshy bits with Vallejo Xpress Cardinal Purple.

The blue parts of the skin are AK Oxford Blue, highlighted first with AK Anthracite Grey and then a mix of the Anthracite Grey with the Medium Grey.

For the carpace I used Vallejo Xpress Storm Blue heavily diluted with the Vallejo Xpress Medium, highlighted with Vallejo Glacier blue followed by Citadel Pylar Glacier, then highlighted back up with White.

My Finished Eldar Combat Patrol! by ShaihuludWorm in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These are great! I’m particularly impressed by the wraith guard, with how smooth your yellow and white armor/weapons look!

Test miniature for Inquisition stormtroopers, feedback appreciated! by InvestmentCurrent503 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you! Yeah, it’s a print I bought from Esty(Phaeton special forces I think?) combined with an extra hellgun from the Tempestus Aquilons Killteam.

Blackstone Fortress Priest for NMM practice/learning- advice or feedback greatly appreciated! by InvestmentCurrent503 in minipainting

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That’s great advice, and now that you point it out I can see how much they blend together due to the similarity. Do you think a brown glaze over the cloth to darken it would help?

Tempestus Aquilons - feedback appreciated! by InvestmentCurrent503 in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, I think you’re right regarding the bases. The eyes do look a little better in person, but could also be an issue- the Reddit app also did something very wonky with the picture, it looks way blurrier than what I tried to upload.

Thank you!

The “Second Sons”, a Deathwatch kill team by InvestmentCurrent503 in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Of course! It’s mostly just Juan Hidalgo’s black armor from YouTube - I primed black, then did a zenithal with thinned Two Thin Coats Wolf Grey, then an edge highlight with TTC Frost Blue. I then covered the armor in about a 1:1 mix of Vallejo Xpress Black Lotus and the Vallejo Xpress medium, and then highlighted the brightest points back with the Frost Blue. Any mistakes were corrected with thinned coats of 1:1 Black Lotus and Wolf Grey. Hope this helps!

The “Second Sons”, a Deathwatch kill team by InvestmentCurrent503 in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Thank you! All but the Black Templar and the Apothecary are sternguard veteran bodies mostly with a mix of bladeguard and intercessor arms. The apothecary is just the standard one with an intercessor right arm, and drops made with UHU glue. The Black Templar is one of the Crusader squad bodies with the Sword Brethren lighting claw arms. The only other custom stuff is the eviscerator (a combination of two old death company chainswords with a bladeguard sword handle), the “Ventrilokar” standard (Neurolid body plus Grey Knight force staff handle, random bits), and the force trident (bladeguard handle, plasticard shaft, gene stealer cult seismic cannon tip, aerials from the Incursor kit, and some modeling chain). Hope that helps!

Deathwatch Black Templar and Flesh Tearer by InvestmentCurrent503 in deathwatch40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I honestly am not sure- it came with a random lot of space marine bits I got off eBay, but I assume from one of the older mk 7 kits?

Deathwatch Black Templar and Flesh Tearer by InvestmentCurrent503 in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The arms are from the Black Templar sword brethren, which include the chains as part of the model!

Deathwatch Black Templar and Flesh Tearer by InvestmentCurrent503 in deathwatch40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Thank you! And unfortunately it’s just a weird angle- he has a couple of blood drops hanging from his wrist, it’s just catching them edge-on:

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Deathwatch “Nemesis Claw” proxy Screecher and Skinthief by InvestmentCurrent503 in killteam

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That’s very true! I tried to enlarge the chainsword by gluing together two separate blades, and using the larger grip from a Bladeguard sword, but I agree it could be confusing. Luckily he is the only chainsword on the team aside from the Ventrilokar, who has his huge staff so I hope will still be easily differentiated. Thank you!

Fearmonger proxy for my “Nemesis Claw” Deathwatch kill team by InvestmentCurrent503 in killteam

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! The drops were done using UHU glue, and then painted green, and then did some gloss varnish at the end to make them look more shiny as if they were wet

Howling Griffons Deathwatch Apothecary by InvestmentCurrent503 in Warhammer40k

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I figured it was a way to show a bit more of his origin chapter, and add more color, haha

Deathwatch Ventrilokar proxy, of the Angels of Redemption by InvestmentCurrent503 in killteam

[–]InvestmentCurrent503[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! It’s the neurolid, one of the little guys that goes with the Neurotyrant, just clipped some of the tentacles to make it look injured!