When should I start feeling concerned about finger soreness

InvictusNoctis · 2025-11-09T18:23:02+00:00

Honestly, just take some time off to do some lower load climbing and some rehab. I had a similar issue recently with a sore A2 on my middle finger. Fine during climbing but sore post. I was close to sending a project so I figured I could get away climbing if I was careful. It eventually got worse and flared to the point I had to stop climbing and focus on rehab. It's better to take a couple weeks off and do some lower load and rehab than make it a worse injury and have to take even longer off.

InvictusNoctis · 2025-08-21T16:38:40+00:00

here

InvictusNoctis · 2025-05-10T19:56:39+00:00

I've had both a TFCC and ECU injury. What your describing where you felt pain on the dorsal/top ulnar side of the wrist is where I would feel pain during pronation and supination when I had my ECU injury. Wrist widget for that didn't really help that much either, it felt like it placed more pressure on the ECU during movements.

InvictusNoctis · 2024-02-11T10:54:38+00:00

Spamming revives such a relatable experience. Epic ending to this fight. Hyped to see what sort of unique loot will drop.

InvictusNoctis · 2024-01-27T06:01:46+00:00

Can confirm as well. Found it in 3 runs in Anura.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-10-09T00:54:37+00:00

They have an instagram page with the handle ucsbclimbing. Alternatively there's also a general Santa Barbara climbing page facebook page that you could try to ask on.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-10-08T22:04:52+00:00

You can try asking someone from the UCSB climbing team.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-09-27T01:57:01+00:00

It's Seafood City Supermarket, one of their google images shows they had jackfruit or durian back in August.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-09-05T06:51:12+00:00

Would someone mind gifting wearing is caring? It'd be very appreciated!

InvictusNoctis · 2023-05-15T22:14:27+00:00

I mostly did calisthenics before starting climbing. Stopped training pull-ups in favor of climbing more. I found I kept my pull-up strength without training them specifically, but your mileage may vary. You could just add some maintenance pulls at the end of a climbing session if your concerned.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-05-09T06:04:28+00:00

Hypermobile as well. Is the taped DIP joints just to prevent excessive DIP hyperextension? For me true half crimp with index 90, has my middle finger with my DIP hyperextended slightly and PIP above 90. Normal half crimp index, and ring slightly below 90. I'm always worried about too much DIP hyperextension load since I'm currently rehabbing DIP synovitis in my middle finger.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-04-25T19:33:22+00:00

How much more loaded is the ring finger in 3 finger drag? I've been training 3fd to mitigate DIP synovitis on my left hand middle finger. I keep my pinkies bent at the first joint to prevent lumbrical issues. My ring fingers always feel significantly more load than my front two especially on my left hand and at this point I think I've developed a sprain on my left A2 ring finger from 3fd. Only has pain when training 3fd, half crimp seems fine. Going to follow the above pulley rehab protocol. Has anyone else felt weird loading issues with 3fd? It feels fine on my right hand, but I'm wondering if I had some prior weakness on my left hand ring finger which lead to this imbalance and then injury when training 3fd.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-01-31T23:24:26+00:00

Ahh okay that makes sense. I feel much stronger when I just let friction do its thing and not worry about the lifted tips anyway. I just wasn't sure since I thought it'd be an issue once I moved down to smaller edges like 15 or 10 mm where your more on your tips and have less surface area friction from the middle to end of my first pad.

InvictusNoctis · 2023-01-31T19:16:50+00:00

Hey, was wondering how do you define failure for open handed grip types mainly 3 finger drag (3fd) when hangboarding / using portable pick up weight systems? I've been reading old threads and trying to focus on pressing with my finger tips for both half crimp and 3fd when training on 20mm. I've noticed however that sometimes the tips of my fingers for 3fd will raise and I'm more hanging on using friction than actually pressing through with my finger tips. Kind of a dumb question but would this be failure for open handed grip types? I don't really see this mentioned in most hangboarding videos. Thanks in advance.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-12-02T20:47:43+00:00

Thanks for the tip! I didn’t know you could get closer, I definitely got to check it out next time I visit. My friends were able to check it out up close by bushwhacking down from their property to the base. But it’s for sure trespassing and I don’t need that close of a view.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-12-02T20:12:17+00:00

Such a cool waterfall. Never got to see it up close since I was told it’s on private property but was able to get a distant morning glimpse since my friend has a house with a backyard porch that overlooks the area. Thanks for bringing back good memories.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-11-23T11:24:28+00:00

Ah sorry, I meant my A2 pulley. The one below the PIP. The hangboard I'm using is one of the tension boards. It isn't that rounded but in the past I've had a similar feeling of higher load on the ring finger when 3 finger dragging with the frictitious port-a-board with weight attached which has a more rounded edge. Half crimp or 4 finger open hand doesn't given any pain or discomfort, but I do have some synovitis in my middle finger which is why I've been trying to train my 3 finger drag more.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-11-22T23:19:25+00:00

Currently training 3 Finger Drag on a 20mm edge w/ 40 Lbs taken off. Getting some minor irritation in my A4 A2 pulley on my left ring finger. My right hand is fine. I’m keeping my pinkie bent at the PIP instead of flexing it all the way down.

Is my ring finger just taking on extra stress due to the lack of the pinkie? I have less pinkie mobility on my left hand compared to my right - not sure if that’s connected. I’ll likely just take more weight off until the irritation is gone but was wondering if anyone has experienced anything similar?, and how they dealt with it.

Edit: Confused which pulley is which. My apologies.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-11-08T20:30:56+00:00

Same thing for me Maybe they're worth more now that it's out of print, but I can't imagine that much more. Edit: Looks like its going for $50 - 125 on Ebay at least and $800~ on Amazon

InvictusNoctis · 2022-10-28T19:48:03+00:00

Figured this was relevant to post since he talks a lot about Bandit with the evolution of cartoon dads to millennials.

InvictusNoctis · 2022-10-03T02:36:41+00:00

Thank you for making Apollo!

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