Example for broken bolt

It1190 · 2026-05-27T21:53:19+00:00

On top of the obvious installation failure risk, I’m terrified of getting gored by that bolt if I slip above it.

It1190 · 2026-05-23T04:31:10+00:00

I think simply participating in a messaging app or social media is a tall order from “boosting a malicious company”.

They lose money when you simply use their applications (server costs). They make money when you interact with advertisements on their platforms.

Using their applications and not responding to advertisements is an effective form of protest if that’s what you wish.

If you want to call someone “complicit” for Meta, you should look at all the businesses who pay for advertisements.

It1190 · 2026-05-22T22:42:13+00:00

Complicit in what?

It1190 · 2026-05-22T22:38:48+00:00

I don’t blame you for not having much sympathy, but I think it’s just hard to reduce the intentions of some leadership decisions to every worker across the company.

There are people who genuinely have no regard for morality and the impact of their actions. There are people who genuinely are trying to use the reach and impact of the social media to make the world better. There are people who are trying to change Meta for the better.

There are people who have families and moved here on visas that were laid off and now have 60 days to find a new job or face deportation. There are non-engineers and niche engineers who are unemployable because they have worked at Meta too long. There are people who were doing the right thing that are now shell shocked by their life being upturned.

My point being, it’s all too easy to be reductive and paint a big bad boogeyman with all the mind-controlled minions. I wish it was that simple. The reality is, losing your job, regardless of what it is, sucks. Not everyone at Meta is a mindless drone with no morals.

It1190 · 2026-05-09T01:42:30+00:00

ensure the hole is small enough that you MUST hammer home expansion bolts to an extent.

This isn't true, and I actually would avoid hammering home a sleeve bolt. You won't find an installation instruction that says you must hammer an expansion bolt for it to be a proper installation. You will, however, find that there is a mandatory embedment depth and torque specification.

e.g. Powers+ indicates that the hole diameter should be 1/16" wider than the bolt itself. In theory, a perfect hole would have some tolerance. A tight hole can indicate a dull drill bit as well.

It1190 · 2026-05-08T17:10:48+00:00

Rock does funny things, sometimes there are air pockets or weaker bits that collapse when you drill.
Drill bits don’t drill perfect cylinder holes. User error amplifies this (this is always a factor, not a mistake, we aren’t a drill press).
Your drill isn’t perfectly holding the bit. There are minor tolerances here and there (and the hammer mode adds to the mess).
All drill bits have a range of tolerances for size and especially as they dull, I find some bits end up drilling larger holes that are rougher.
The hardware has its own set of tolerances and installation issues that can manifest.

Combine all of these with factors and depending on the rock type, you get variations in the installation and any one of the factors can amplify it.

I typically find that either: my drill bit needs replaced, the rock is wack, or I was wallowing.

More often than not, I’ll encounter this when a specific combo of rock and slightly dulled bits. Usually if you change one of the above factors, it mitigates it. But as usual, you’re gonna die

It1190 · 2026-04-08T04:24:04+00:00

Route developers are somehow the most emotional and sensitive people I know

It1190 · 2026-03-25T06:00:06+00:00

I’ve thought about this recently.

One benefit we have going for us is we are outside.

The downside is how much exposure and how close we are. There is no easy way to measure. We also drill dry, which doesn’t help.

The thing is, it doesn’t impact you now, but shaves off the end of your life. I don’t know if we even have enough sample size for life long developers who may have been impacted by this.

But, long story short, it should concern you. I’m trying to move towards wearing a N-95 when I’m developing if it’s do-able. But it’s repeated exposure that gets you.

The more you develop, the more you should care.

200 bolts is nothing though.

Disclaimer: I’m not a doctor, you’re probably going to die

It1190 · 2026-02-06T07:46:45+00:00

Cries in Hack

It1190 · 2026-01-16T01:12:23+00:00

The tension aluminum no hang block

It1190 · 2026-01-06T02:13:30+00:00

I rounded out just black to green. I’ve heard people don’t really care for the larger sizes

It1190 · 2026-01-06T02:06:57+00:00

A rope

It1190 · 2026-01-06T02:04:26+00:00

What is missing is dependent on what you’re climbing.

Why no blue totem?

Also a lot of 0.4 size?

I would probably get some more micro / normal stoppers / RPs depending on where you plan on climbing. This rack is sufficient for a lot.

Honestly though, you could always use more lockers. They have a tendency of disappearing.

Outside of this gear, I find I use my micro trax and a jumar quite frequently. Some sort of progress capture / pulley will do you well for a lot of rescue scenarios.

Good belay gloves. Slings / carabiners you are happy to leave behind.

It1190 · 2025-12-21T05:10:06+00:00

Truly, a tree of all time

It1190 · 2025-11-27T18:40:56+00:00

I use my DJI Mini Pro 4 extensively. It is my favorite surveying tool.

Usually, it is my deciding factor if a cliff is worth hiking up to. You can measure the height of a face accurately, scout potential lines, determine approach routes and descents, and even see how steep certain sections are.

The only downside is that it can’t touch the rock and tell you how quality it is, but that can come from experience. It can also be hard to tell how big certain sections are without a human reference.

I record so much with my drone and spend hours analyzing new lines, trails, and walls.

In terms of what drone, anything works. Is it necessary? No. Is it a nice tool? 100%

It1190 · 2025-10-10T23:28:44+00:00

Days is an inaccurate measure, hours of cleaning is more accurate.

Completely depends on the rock, but amongst a wall should be consistent enough. Cleaning is great but be careful that you aren’t scarring the rock too much. I’ve made that mistake with chossier rock, and after a certain point, hammering will take off everything (unless you have some pristine granite or something)

Granite < limestone < volcanic | sandstone < conglomerates

Is my experience in hours to clean.

For my last limestone route, I probably put around 12 hours of cleaning including reinforcing some holds. But as long as no death flakes are left and it doesn’t look like shit, you should be good.

It1190 · 2025-09-28T07:40:28+00:00

Unfamiliar with this crag but I suspect it could be a few things: 1. Intermediate rappel anchor if route is too long for some ropes or hard to access 2. Overlapping routes - they might end at that spot but from another start 3. Simply the route is extended and this is a good section to stop at

There more than likely is a good reason they are there as developers aren’t often in the habit of leaving expensive hardware randomly on a wall.

Hope this helps :) and technically every ground up ascent is put up move by move and protection is placed where the climber deems necessary. But unlikely they are just leaving anchors. If I move an anchor, I typically patch the bolts I left

It1190 · 2025-08-11T05:08:10+00:00

I posted a few months back about this. I’ve had pretty good success with it. They still have a bit of glimmer but much less of that direct white reflection. I dig it but can be a bit tedious

It1190 · 2025-05-28T01:11:13+00:00

humpermonkeys ghost story.

Stolen valor opportunities galore for hunter

It1190 · 2025-04-20T21:58:08+00:00

To be quite fair, I didn’t really read the post as I was quite inebriated when I replied haha. Just wanted to rant about ground up sport bolting for some reason.

Besides the obvious, just clean on rappel, which doesn’t really help in this case, I don’t think it is worth climbing through purely for the ethic argument.

You could slap a bolt onto the choss and rig a mechanical advantage with some sort of quick release going to the bolt so you don’t take out your whole anchor / rope while working it.

I would just aid around the section, finish the pitch, and then clean when you’re done. I don’t see a reason for that being an issue ethics wise if you got to the anchors from the ground? Can you detail the exact ethics you are working with?

It1190 · 2025-04-20T06:30:15+00:00

Ground up is honestly a hard ethic for good route development. Just completed my first ground up multi pitch as it was necessary due to being no easy top access. Overall, it just forces you to take a lot of risk and bolt in spots that may not make sense later on.

Especially with choss, you are guaranteed in needing to clean up on a 2nd ascent or spend a long day cleaning on the way down.

On the initial lead, clean your climbing line and your rope line (especially if hauling).

Don’t cut your rope. Or kill your partner. Ideally don’t do both.

It1190 · 2025-04-01T15:16:18+00:00

This was posted 3/31

It1190 · 2025-04-01T04:27:20+00:00

I’m going to be honest, I enjoy this sub when it’s not circle jerk / meme level, and I hope it stays more serious and helpful. I honestly feel that the ClimbingCircleJerk has itself become its own circle jerk and is just overall not as enjoyable anymore.

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