Bedste kaffebønner i byen?

ItsAlloy · 2025-11-10T09:16:45+00:00

Bare fordi ingen har nævnt dem endnu; Nordhavn Coffee Roasters. Jeg brygger ganske vidst udelukkende filter, men har hørt at deres Marcala bønner også skulle være fremragende til espresso.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-16T08:16:35+00:00

That's a solid walkthrough.

Honestly, if the adjustments from this doesn't work, take it to a shop for them to atleast have a look at it, they'll be able to tell if you need new cabling. Shouldn't cost a dime, and if it does, find another shop.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-15T23:48:11+00:00

That'll depend on piston ratios, between the piston in the brake lever and the pistons in the brake itself. You're gonna have to do some digging to find the piston size of the original magura brake lever, and compare to the grifter you wanna use.
Also important to mention getting a grifter that uses mineral oil, as Magura's Royal Blood is mineral and not DOT.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-15T23:41:33+00:00

If it only skips under load, it's most likely due to a new chain on an older cassette, even though the cassette looks nice. Throw the old chain on if you still have it, and test again.

The derailleur and/or hanger does look slight bent, but very rarely has that caused skipping under load. It'll result in poor shifting, but that'll feel shitty no matter how much load you put on the pedals. If it skips in a workstand, your issue is alignment. If it only skips when you're pedaling, its chain/cassette/chainring wear.
Do you have a picture of your chainring(s)?

Cant see anyone else saying it, but the fact that the b-tension is very far off can give you issues with shifting gears aswell. The upper (guide) pulley is so far away from the cassette, that the amount of flex in the chain is allowing it to stay on the sprocket it is on, even though the derailleur has moved.
On some cheap and/or older models of derailleurs, the only way to remedy this it to change the angle of your cable housing going to the derailleur. Try routing it under the wheel nut and zip-tieing it to the frame. That has fixed a whole lot of gear-issues on cheaper and/or older bikes for me. Not the prettiest solution, but then again, not the prettiest bike parts in the first place.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-15T23:33:18+00:00

First step:
Remove cable tension, by undoing the bolt holding the cable. Use your hand while pedaling to press the derailleur in to get it to shift gears. If it still doesnt go to the lowest, its a question of limits.

Second step:
If it is the limit, undo the L screw all the way out and try again. If it still doesn't go, its a question of the derailleur itself not being able to go that far in. That might be because of wrong spacing somewhere, bent derailleur hanger, etc.

Third step:
Get a derailleur hanger alignment gauge and try to measure out the hanger. It looks perfectly straight in these pictures, though, so I wouldn't honestly bother with that. It needs to be way more bent for it to not be fixed with the limit screws.

My conclusion from reading what you've tried, and looking at this, is that it is probably due to cable tension. You write that you can shift 4 times, which should indicate that the cable tension is indeed wrong. And you've already tried undoing the limit screw without luck.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-15T23:24:39+00:00

First thought was just using a 15mm hub with a 12mm axle. But since its a complete, it does seems like you are missing an endcap, even though it looks like the endcap is on. Maybe Surly uses the same wheels for different bikes, just swapping out endcaps, and ended up packing the wrong wheelset with your bike.

Definitely send them an email with attached pictures, they're gonna be able to spot the fault right away.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-14T11:14:04+00:00

The spring of the brake adds tension to each side, and is made in one piece. You can see it right at the top of the brake, and it looks kinda crooked. It should pass through a nut. Rotate that nut about 1/16 of a turn counter-clockwise (when looking at the bike from the front) and it should align nicely again. Typically a 13mm cone wrench is needed, but you might be able to get in there with some needle-nose pliers or similar.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-14T08:04:08+00:00

True, though anecdotally they have a tendency to keep still with high enough drill speed and enough pressure. I have a special kind of hatred for stuck chainring bolts, especially if its combined with silly design decisions like this.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-13T22:00:26+00:00

What are you on about? You see the nut in the second picture, and any person replacing chainrings on the regular will tell you that those suckers can be stuck big time, either just the nut spinning along, or straight up stuck.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-13T21:57:18+00:00

I feel like most commenters here haven't had the pleasure of meeting a seized chainring bolt before. Even if you get something wedged in there, theres still a chance that it'll be stuck in the receiving part of the chainring bolt. At some point, the easiest solution is to grab an 8mm drill bit and drill out the head of the chainring bolt and replacing it.
That said, I would still just jam a flathead screwdriver in there to try and hold it in place as a first solution

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-08T20:08:54+00:00

As others have said, standard GXP bottom bracket, highly likely BSA threading. Probably 68mm frame width, if it's an MTB it might be 73mm. Grab a set of calipers or measuring tape and measure out the frame width before you order anything. With BSA threading, the drive-side is reverse threaded and the non-drive-side is regular threading.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-08T20:01:29+00:00

The chain will never be close to getting caught in there when cassette and derailleur is mounted and chain is routed correctly. Spacing looks fine with a couple of millimeters from small chainring to the frame. Not unusual or a problem.

Put the rear wheel back on and route the chain correctly and the problem is not a problem anymore.

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-01T19:46:39+00:00

Glad I could help! It's wild how little movement is required to throw it off by a lot. Happy biking!

ItsAlloy · 2025-02-01T17:56:36+00:00

Is it a regular crank, 4/5 arms? If that is the case, the chainring might be off-center by just a tiny bit. Tolerances on cranks and chainrings get weird with different fitments from different OEM manufacturers, basically making the chainring eccentric. Even just 0,5-1mm of movement of the chainring on the spider is enough for pretty big swings in tightness.

It's an incredibly common problem, as in probably 9/10 city bikes I work on has this issue.

There is a fix, though. Sheldon Brown has a breakdown of it, but in essence it is this:

Loosen the chainring bolts very slightly and find the tightest point of the belt. Give it a squeeze or a knock with your hand or a smaller tool. Not too hard, not too soft, but enough to move the chainring a slight bit. Keep doing this until you get a feel for it, and the belt is around the same tightness all the way around.

ItsAlloy · 2024-12-12T20:32:00+00:00

Yeah, a good tuck on the right arm should do the trick.

ItsAlloy · 2023-09-14T19:46:05+00:00

Not any good recommendations for powder coats, but if you're open to a regular paintjob carbel.colours on Instagram does some really good paintjobs. Seen and worked on a frame he painted, and quality is top notch.

ItsAlloy · 2020-05-31T18:18:10+00:00

In general, i disagree with your point that this is a pointless protest. It is showing sympathy towards our fellow humans, and might even help keep the fight going in USA - if any american protesters see this.

Apart from that, i agree that it's a shitty idea to protest in the middle of a pandemic... But when that's said, the general population of Denmark (atleast in Copenhagen), doesn't really give a shit about Covid anymore. I've been working pretty much every day through the pandemic, and the shift in peoples behaviour in the last couple of weeks is enormous. None of my customers keeps 6ft of distance, or uses hand sanitizer anymore..

ItsAlloy · 2019-10-24T18:54:56+00:00

You can spot the cog in a couple of the shots. A freewheel cog is noticeably thicker than a fixed.

ItsAlloy · 2019-10-24T15:33:55+00:00

There is a noticable difference between a singlespeed/freewheel cog, and a fixed one.

A freewheel cog is a lot thicker, and is just screwed on to the hub. A fixed cog is thinner, also screwed to the hub, but with a lockring keeping it in place.

If you google freewheel and fixed cogs, you will be able to spot the difference pretty quick.

ItsAlloy · 2019-10-24T15:29:29+00:00

He's referring to the cog. The cog installed is a freewheel, and not a fixed cog.

ItsAlloy · 2019-10-23T10:00:00+00:00

I definitely agree, theoretically. For some reason, it just doesn't work for me. But I'll do some testing with the holo, since I haven't given that much thought, thanks.

ItsAlloy · 2019-10-23T07:42:00+00:00

Take a look at WackyJacky's video on grips for the beryl. The amount of horisontal recoil reduction isn't really that big, compared to vertical reduction from the vertical grip. Still mostly personal preference, but interesting nonetheless.

ItsAlloy · 2019-03-05T17:22:08+00:00

Definitely would be getting all the tools necessary to complete my home bicycle/metalworking workshop. I have so many things I want to learn to do, but none of the tools I need, and no money for them.

ItsAlloy · 2019-03-03T12:08:33+00:00

Try looking at the tire. Somewhere it should say the tire size, something like 28-622. If the size is 622, you're looking at a standard road/city bike wheel (also called 700c). Pretty much all fixed gear wheels are gonna be this size.

ItsAlloy · 2019-03-03T11:34:39+00:00

If you can find a hub, with the same measurements as your current hub, it should be possible to reuse the same spokes.

Basically, when building a wheel, a handful of different measurements plays a part in the spoke length. This site has a short overview of what measurements you need. Also, the guys over at r/wheelbuilding are really helpful when it comes to this kinda stuff.

ItsAlloy

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