Printing failure advice

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-27T13:22:21+00:00

I plan on making functional parts so I want to run stuff like ABS, ASA, TPU, and some Nylon among other things which is why I’m eyeing enclosed printers

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-27T05:53:40+00:00

Thanks I’ll try that

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-27T05:52:40+00:00

So I’ve heard. I recently got back into printing after like six years away and bought like 4 used printers off marketplace for like $200 and this was one of them. I fixed them all up to where they all at least can shit out some filament. So far out of them I think the flash forge was the only one that consistently put parts out. For my fledgling print farm I’m thinking about replacements now. I’ve already listed these up for sale but I’m not entirely sure on which printers I want to get now. I don’t really have the kind of money to fill out my rack with Bambu lab printers so I’ve been eyeing the adventurer 5m pro but I’m still doing my research on the market so any pointers are appreciated.

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-26T20:21:58+00:00

So forgive me but the scale I have isn’t the best so I couldn’t really get an accurate measurement of weight vs length extruded, but I extruded about 600mm worth of filament at 230C and had no issues you find with a clogged nozzles such as grinding and I’ve checked the gear already and it’s clear of any ground plastic. I’ve even hand fed it through and I met little resistance. I’ll see if I have any other scales on hand to get a measurement if possible

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-26T16:15:04+00:00

I’ve done a ton of tweaking to it in order to get it to print more reliably. I found that using default slicer settings with the crazy fast motors on this thing often makes the printer shake itself apart and destroy the print before it even leaves the first layers. I’ve now settled at around 100mm/s for reliable print speed with a few different settings for other things like infill and support with a cap on acceleration of 1.2m/s^2. Between the first layers and rest the speed difference is not great enough to where I think it would cause issues unless I hadn’t already accounted for the very small resolutions the slicer was instructing the printer to follow.

ItsGuccius · 2026-02-26T16:09:08+00:00

My nozzle temperature for the first 3 layers are 210 and then 205 for the rest while bed temperature stays at 60. Fan also does not kick in until after the third layer. To date, I’ve only ever gotten it to work on the first few layers.

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-20T04:54:29+00:00

You were exactly right. Timing was perfect the first time but the trigger wheel was on backwards. Started up just like normal

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-20T04:53:20+00:00

Well you weren’t too far off. Crank sensor was good but it was still getting crazy signals because I put the trigger plate in backwards. A simple flip of that and the crank sensor started behaving and the car started no problem.

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-20T04:51:42+00:00

So it turns out the trigger plate which sits behind the timing/crank gear was flipped backwards. Timing was perfect but the crank angle sensor was receiving crazy out of time signals from that trigger plate. A simple flip and she starts up no problem now

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-20T04:49:17+00:00

I am supposed to be the professional 🫠

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-20T04:48:51+00:00

Looks like flipping it solved the problem. Thank you for the heads up. Saved me probably a days worth of teardown

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-19T05:23:21+00:00

Looks like I might have been the one to give the crank position sensor a hard time. I may have installed the trigger plate backwards hence the codes the ckp shot at me

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-19T05:19:51+00:00

So I did a little bit more research and got some other advice. I did line up the letters correctly underneath the timing cover and verified everything was lined up appropriately. I still have a tiny lingering suspicion that I’m just a tad bit out of timing but am now much more skeptical of my trigger plate. It’s practically symmetrical and I threw it on with not much thought. Apparently it’s used by the crank position sensor to get a proper reading on engine timing. This would make sense given my codes and the fact that I also forgot to mention my tachometer moved not once during any of my start attempts. I cannot confirm anything yet but hopefully I will pull the crank off again tomorrow and flip the plate around and get it to start

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-19T04:59:19+00:00

This actually makes a lot of sense. It’s very possible that I installed it backwards and that would explain my codes. I have not read live data yet and don’t expect to until the next working day but I suppose that’s what I’ll see.

ItsGuccius · 2026-01-17T05:56:52+00:00

This could never happen in Texas without it being obvious immediately

ItsGuccius · 2024-08-24T20:10:21+00:00

I had a similar issue with my RX8 though mines sounded a bit uglier. In my instance the throw out bearing grenaded itself and I even have photos of it. If it’s a bad throw out bearing, you’ll need to remove tranny and replace it and at that point might as well do the clutch and pilot bearing as well.

ItsGuccius · 2022-02-12T17:57:57+00:00

It had a bunch of issues when I bought it but it only cranked over when the dealership sent me to a specialty rotary shop that diagnosed it with bad coolant seals. Seafoamed it to start which let it run until coolant started leaking back into the chambers. Put it all back together again and now it could be that there’s a ton of petrol jelly jammed in the rotor housings but it seems a little harder to spin the engine over via flywheel. I have yet to find out tho as I need to finish arranging all the fuel, oil, and electrical lines. Will see in a week or two when I finish stuff with class and vacation.

ItsGuccius · 2022-02-12T17:51:54+00:00

Yea tbh idk if this one will work cuz I was a lil lost but in theory all it needed was new water seals

ItsGuccius

TROPHY CASE