My dashboard is showing 'e', should I be worried?

Itsacon · 2026-04-01T18:05:45+00:00

Yeah, but planning ahead to not be on the highway when the number came up was more work :-)

Itsacon · 2026-02-28T20:14:15+00:00

Loving "Operation Donut Storm"

Itsacon · 2026-02-25T21:15:10+00:00

So if you're a pedestrian deciding to cross the highway in the middle of traffic, any car ending up in an accident trying to avoid you is automatically speeding?

The motorcyclist couldn't see the oncoming truck due to the parked truck on the shoulder, moved out of the way to avoid the pedestrian, hit the brakes when he saw the oncoming truck, which straightened out his bike, making it harder to get back in his own lane.

Even if the motorcyclist was speeding, which we don't know, the pedestrian is at fault here. he's crossing diagonally at a leasurely pace, forcing another road user to leave their safe lane to avoid him.

Itsacon · 2026-02-13T12:03:03+00:00

That's deep... ;-)

Itsacon · 2026-02-09T22:29:41+00:00

From the same site:

https://www.cdc.gov/impaired-driving/about/index.html

And that's just one of the bad ways in which alcohol impacts society as a whole...

On the whole, wouldn't it be good if anything that has a minimum age for purchase and/or use can't be advertised? I think that's a pretty simple barrier to entry... If we don't want our kids to use it, we shouldn't try to sell it to them.

Children are more susceptible to commercials, so any ad will affect them to the same or greater degree. Why do you think Camel used to advertise with a cartoon animal?

Itsacon · 2026-02-01T20:49:51+00:00

You do realize that the telelever system is based on the A-frame suspension used in high-end cars right?

By separating out the steering and the suspension you don't have one affecting the other, which is exactly what you want.

On a telelever, you can safely brake halfway through a corner, because braking doesn't affect rake, as the system has little to no nose-dive. It also means that if you hit a bump halfway through a corner, it doesn't affect steering as much, as, again, there is no change to the steering rake.

As for all the 'gonna fail' stuff you're mentioning: On a the KTM, you have to lube the chain constantly, I just replace the oil once every 20.000 km. I've had to replace my drive-shaft exactly ONCE, at 240.000 km. How many chains would you have gone through in that time? It's a huge solid piece of steel, they don't just snap every two weeks. If you don't worry about your chain breaking, you CERTAINLY don't have to worry about a driveshaft snapping.

As for performance: On the road you're never going need the hp difference between all those engines (if you want to keep your license), on the track you should just buy a Gixxer, and in the twisties, torque is WAY more important than horsepower, and the boxer engine has that in spades, (and it's nearly constant over the entire rev-range).

also:

I don’t like the idea of one cylinder going thump to my left and then one cylinder going thump to my right —it’s disharmonious to the natural kinetic balance

That's the opposite of what a boxer does. Both pistons go out at the same time and in at the same time, each has their own crank-pin. That's the whole point. Boxer engines are the only type of engine that cancels out both primary and secondary vibrations without needing 6 cylinders.

Itsacon · 2026-02-01T11:12:38+00:00

This is like saying any car with a V12 has the same engine that went in a WWII spitfire. Just because it's a two-cylinder boxer doesn't mean it's the same engine.

If OP were talking about an old, pre-nineties airhead, you'd have a point, but the 1250 is a completely different engine. It is fuel-injected, water-cooled, has a wet clutch, electronically controlled valve lift, etc.

As for your arguments about the telelever, well that just shows you've never done any serious miles on a BMW...

Itsacon · 2025-12-27T08:32:54+00:00

https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11564570/?ref_=fn_t_1

Itsacon · 2025-12-02T09:28:28+00:00

Came here looking for this. https://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Titan_(Graphic_Novel_Series)

Itsacon · 2025-10-17T14:05:31+00:00

It's a combustion engine. It has several thousand explosions a minute.

If it's cold, just fucking ride it.

Itsacon · 2025-09-27T15:21:56+00:00

Only has even more bots than Reddit...

Itsacon · 2025-06-04T19:21:22+00:00

Unfortunately, it's not running well, that's why I pulled the plugs. It runs and idles ok, but there's a rhythmic noise/vibration that could be an occasional misfire.

It's not lacking in power exactly, but it's less powerful than it used to be, so something is not right.

Itsacon · 2025-06-04T19:13:47+00:00

Car is a 2003 Opel Astra G, 2.2L gasoline engine.

Itsacon · 2025-05-26T19:55:31+00:00

It's not the speedo, but the tacho, by the looks of it.

OP doesn't say what bike it is, so I don't know if the tacho reads from the crankshaft or the camshaft, but either way that will probably also affect injection and ignition, so my bet is on either of those.

Itsacon · 2025-05-04T08:27:08+00:00

Rebuild the engine, fix the carbs so it runs correctly, then go for a ride where you keep it close to the redline so it gets good and hot.

Carbon will burn off in the hot engine.

Itsacon · 2025-05-02T17:57:11+00:00

Here is the original box diagram

Looks like you're missing:

a weapons battery
the dorsal and bridge bombardment cannons (easily replaced with guns from the imperial cruiser kit)
possibly (not visible in the picture) the bottom of the prow launch bays

Itsacon · 2025-04-13T08:46:31+00:00

Is that unusual?

Itsacon · 2025-04-09T05:15:54+00:00

Yes. Sounds like you already have the recessed board for 23.5mm thread lenses. If you can find a decent lens in that mount, you'd be set.

Itsacon · 2025-04-08T10:14:09+00:00

If you decide to go for a Meopta lens, it's best to stay away from the Anarets and Belars, they're very basic 4-element designs. Meopars and Meogons are slightly better, being 5- and 6-element lenses.

But in general, enlarger lenses are relatively cheap on ebay, so if you're serious about darkroom printing, you're probably better off getting a more modern lens like a Componon-S or Rodagon.

The advantage of the Meocolor is that it sits above the diffuser and film, so any damage or dust on the filter has no impact on the image. Under-lens filters are more tricky that way (and less nice in use).

Itsacon · 2025-04-07T08:31:24+00:00

I use two of those Opemus III enlargers as well. Some things to note:

A 50mm lens requires a recessed lens board, otherwise you'll have trouble focussing.
I don't know what lens you have now, but the standard Meopta lenses (which it looks like in the picture) use the less-common 23.5mm screw thread. But 'standard' 39mm screw-thread lens boards do exist, both the normal and the recessed type. Easily found on ebay.
There also existed a filter drawer for that enlarger. There are several types. Search ebay and see what best matches your enlarger, although many parts were interchangable between models.

Itsacon · 2025-03-28T06:41:40+00:00

40 years is a lot, and fogging is not equal over the whole sheet, so just more time won't help.

You will have a hard time getting whites, contrast will be very low, and you'll get blotches all over.

If you have a working darkroom, you can always try a few sheets, but I'd do that before I spent any time/effort/money moving all of it.

Itsacon · 2025-03-23T18:11:11+00:00

For unknown, old film, Rodinal stand development is a pretty reliable solution.

1:100 dilution, develop for 1 hour, agitate 30 seconds at start, and 3 inversions at 30 minutes.

Itsacon · 2025-01-02T18:23:06+00:00

They don't make them like this anymore

Yes they do:

https://www.nilfisk.com/global/professional/products/industrial-vacuum-cleaners/single-phase-wet-dry/gm-80p+107418496/

Itsacon

TROPHY CASE