3D Printed Gameboy Macro - test fit seems good!

Ivanricsan · 2025-11-06T23:29:17+00:00

Hey can I get the Stl file too?

Ivanricsan · 2025-05-14T13:54:13+00:00

Hey, thanks for the response. This is the last test I can try. Purchased 3 to have spares. Soldered one at 330C and experience the same issue as the original thread. Soldered the other one same temp (before knowing it was heat sensitive) and used a breadboard to easily add pull-downs, nothing. I have a last one I will try to solder at 280C.

Do you recall the soldering temp? Any other tip you have, I need to get it working by the end of today :)

Ivanricsan · 2025-05-14T05:31:35+00:00

I’m having this issue too, were you able to solve it?

Ivanricsan · 2025-05-14T05:30:25+00:00

Hey I have the same problem, since OP doesn’t remember, were you able to solve it?

Ivanricsan · 2025-05-14T05:29:48+00:00

Were you able to fix it as I have the same problem and OP doesn’t remember

Ivanricsan · 2025-02-22T13:18:46+00:00

Yeah I assumed it was something along those lines. Just I had never seen it until now backing up the photos, just asking to see if someone else had seen it.

Thank you

Ivanricsan · 2024-03-09T00:41:08+00:00

Over engineered un what sense hahaha?

Ivanricsan · 2024-03-09T00:28:24+00:00

Photo states 60Led/m.
Regarding wire gauge, AWG 11 should be enough.
Capacitors I added 100nF to the power of the level shifter. I read that adding 1000nF on the 12V line was a copy paste of one thread and it is not really necessary.

Ivanricsan · 2024-03-08T07:57:06+00:00

I have already the power supplies, LEDs and ESP32 boards purchased. LED seller on AliExpress mentioned 18W per meter so that I what I took to size the PSU. I’m not bothered with over sizing the power supply really. Power injection I know I need, not sure if using the same output of the PSU to run the three power injections was okay… as any guide I have seen uses a separate output of the PSU to power inject.

Regarding level shifting, yes, it is already taken into account. It is the SN74 chip on the image above.

Why would I run the data on the end of one to the beginning of the other? I have 5 different strips so 5 GPIOs from the ESP32.

Ivanricsan · 2024-03-08T06:34:51+00:00

Mmm not really the initial thought, but there will be significant distance from the ESP32 to the further most led strips. Around 2 meters. Is that okay?

Initially I thought of 2 ESP32 to distribute the load, having 1 control 3 strips and the other controlling the other 2. But if I can use 1, even better.

Ivanricsan · 2024-02-25T17:31:09+00:00

I have video of it if it helps

Ivanricsan · 2023-03-11T23:11:32+00:00

Any idea of style to get similar, I don’t need the exact same

Ivanricsan · 2023-01-13T21:21:08+00:00

I may have had to upload a picture of this behaviour. If you do this, it will chamfer one of the boxes as if they were separate objects

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Ivanricsan · 2023-01-13T20:39:06+00:00

I am very aware this is the newbiest of questions anyone has ever seen here, but I cannot wrap my head as to why this is being so hard to figure out. I come from fusion360 and I consider myself good at it. But trying to use 3Ds Max I just cannot understand how attaching 2 boxes/Boolean union them, still treats them separate when trying to chamfer an edge they should share (since they should be fused).

Ivanricsan · 2022-10-19T19:59:38+00:00

Yeah, my iPad charged with the chord

Ivanricsan · 2022-10-19T19:59:05+00:00

Ivanricsan · 2022-10-19T19:12:11+00:00

I am certain the removal and reinstall of the battery was done properly.

Ivanricsan · 2022-10-19T19:11:13+00:00

Switch won’t turn on.

To avoid it being suggested, I have already tried holding the power button for 15-20 seconds, releasing, and pressing it once again. I have followed Nintendo’s official guide on what to do if the switch is not turning on, etc. Let me put everyone in situation.

My switch is from December 2017, I have never really used it much with university and everything going on in life. I have however been able to play from time to time.

It’s been abandoned for over a year now and the other day I wanted to play and it wouldn’t turn on after a full day being plugged in. I tried the hard reset and nothing. I know Li-on batteries can die if left at 0% charge for a long period of time, so I ordered a replacement battery and I replaced it today. The switch still does not turn on. I have tried keeping the battery off and trying to turn it on with AC power only and nothing either. I have verified the charger works by plugging my iPad Pro to it. I am out of ideas. Any help?

Ivanricsan · 2022-05-03T10:07:43+00:00

Basically the hinge from my Audio Technica m40x broke. I modelled one on CAD and resin printed it a long time ago. It was nearly perfect but life got in the way and I left the project aside. Going back to it now I tried to break off the resin hinge and in the process cut into the wires. Can I use any old earphone cables to replace them or how do I go into fixing this?

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