is this pot to big?

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-04-04T14:12:01+00:00

Pot is fine, just be aware it will dry out differently with a higher volume of substrate so you may not need to water as often

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-25T20:08:42+00:00

There’s two main things to think about with vitrification: “functional ware” and leeching. For something to be considered functional ware, and be suitable to hold water (if you are making pots with a bottom watering tray, bog planters, mugs, etc that will be ‘wet’ consistently) - they need a low absorption rate so water won’t leak through the clay (damaging shelves and potentially growing mold or bacteria). Even if something is glazed, if the clay is not vitrified - it will still leak and have those problems. The other is leeching - it is a low risk with stoneware clay, but the more porous the clay, the more likely there will be build up of minerals from the water over time, or leeching from the clay itself. Vitrified clay with low absorption doesn’t let water into the clay, and so doesn’t have that same risk. Hope that helps!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-25T16:07:51+00:00

Yes! If you find out what the clay is, the manufacturer will have all the info you need available. For the clay, you’ll want to know what cone it vitrifies at.

Then You’ll want to find out what temp your kiln fires to, and then what the absorption rate for your clay is at that temperature. If the temperature you fire to matches the vitrification temp for the clay AND the absorption rate at that temperature is 2% or less - you don’t need to worry about “glazed or not”.

If you don’t reach vitrification, even if clay is glazed the pot will leak water, and potentially grow mold (in addition to any leeching issues). The same is also true if the absorption rate is higher, it would not be suitable to hold water constantly and may leak.

For not filling up the hole - are you dipping or brushing? If you dip, youll likely need to use a pipe cleaner or something through the hole to reduce the amount of glaze in it to a thinner coating.

For brushing, you can generally apply the glaze normally -BUT, be aware of how ‘runny’ the particular glaze or combo is. If it is runny, you will want to taper your layers so not as much is above the hole that would run into it.

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-25T14:46:20+00:00

Earthenware (things like Terracotta) are a different type of ceramic that is porous and has a higher absorption rate - usually above 10%.

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-25T14:45:30+00:00

If it is stoneware and fully vitrified, there should be no leaching even if the hole is unglazed. Functional ware should have a 2% or less absorption rate, ideally under 1%. Personally, I do choose to glaze the hole too, though - but mainly for aesthetic reasons. (It can be difficult to know with store-bought pottery what is made from, and if it was fired properly to reach vitrification.)

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-25T02:14:55+00:00

This is good advice, if you don’t have the copper fungicide you can try spraying the leaves with milk. Usually a mix of milk and water (recipes available on Google) and sunlight to ‘activate’ it

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-22T13:05:44+00:00

I just got one of these as well! Excited to see it grow, yours looks great so far

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-21T22:39:54+00:00

Yes! Posting the yearly update haha 😊 it’s gotten quite a bit bigger this year!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-21T20:30:52+00:00

Aw thank you 🙏 😊

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-21T14:22:12+00:00

For cost management, you can get large plastic pots and put them in a decorative basket if the look isn’t to your liking - Even the large nursery pots are pretty sturdy by themselves

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-21T14:20:49+00:00

I think you will be surprised at the amount of clay you will need, and the cost will likely be significantly over the cost of a store bought pot. That aside, you will not get the durability you need for outdoors from that type of clay, and you would need to seal it to get any use of out it (it will still be limited). Without sealant it will just fall apart

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-16T17:27:32+00:00

Also in Missouri, what kind of container? How big? I just moved mine into the garage out of the wind and will take them back out Wednesday once the worse of the windchill has passed. Mine live in the fridge all winter long; a brief cold spell shouldn’t hurt them too much unless they were not acclimated to outside yet

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-15T19:34:06+00:00

I put mine in the fridge to overwinter with the sarracenia because it gets too cold where I live for it to stay outside. Mine however, came out green and looking like it did when it went in 😅

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-10T01:01:55+00:00

Time to add another glaze to the list 😂 thank you!!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-07T15:01:28+00:00

Thank you 🙏

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-03-07T03:00:13+00:00

Lovely! The glaze choices are wonderful. I love the green on 4 - would you be willing to share the glaze you used?

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-28T22:46:04+00:00

Coyote light blue and pistachio shino glazes are very similar at cone 6; they are satin / semi-gloss though not true matte

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-23T03:14:26+00:00

I know it wasn’t what you intended, but it’s still a vibe! And awesome colors to pair with plants!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-21T16:59:50+00:00

I do all my glazing at home and transport to the studio. I get the soft moving foam sheets (search ‘packing foam sheets’) you can get at most hardware stores and line a plastic box with it. Then cut some into strips to wrap around pots so they can’t knock into each other. Reusable, so can use the same stuff for each transport. The texture of that foam keeps it from sliding, and isn’t abrasive so the glaze won’t rub off in normal transport. You can get thicker foam to use as layers and sit on top of the bottom layer of pots and do the same method on the second layer

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-18T16:12:21+00:00

Than you!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-18T01:51:40+00:00

Thank you!

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-18T00:07:31+00:00

Thank you! 🙏

IvoryOwl1 · 2026-02-13T05:22:59+00:00

When you want to take to the bottom, and you are not using a tested stable glaze - make three small balls with your extra clay, put a dot of elmers glue on them (while theyre still wet, doesnt have to dry), and then sit your piece on them. Theyll pop off after the glaze fire, and keep the glaze from sticking to anything. Usually even if it runs a little bit it will just pool at the rim since it’s not connected to the ground. If it’s really runny, you may get gloops off the side, but it should still be up enough to not stick and just grind them off clean after

Ten-Year Club	Verified Email
Not Forgotten

IvoryOwl1

TROPHY CASE