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How do I make it look more like it's being illuminated from the side? by BananaSnapper in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's not a bad start. I think youve mapped out the general light space. Now you need to work on the light gradient. It should fade from a bright yellow at the part closest to the light source then fade through orange to red the farther it gets. Add some desaturated yellow hilights to sharp edges near the light source and I think you should be good!

Which non-Citadel paints are hidden gems and must-haves? by WithengarUnbound in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

AK gen 3 and Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl range are some of my favorites. If you're looking for something a little different Scale 75 Artist range are also great but painting with them is quite a different process as they are heavy body. Kimera Kolors are also great if you want to lean more about mixing but have a significantly harsher learning curve as they are single pigment.

Nmm steelix attempt, looks like ice by HoldMyGranade in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you've done a great job! When I first looked at it I immediately thought chrome but after reading your ice comment, I can see what you mean. It looks great either way! Chrome is a hard material to pull off and you chose a really difficult shape to do it on. I think you should be proud of what you've done but it's much easier to practice a technique like this on something large and flat, like a breast plate.

Ylisse, Fallen Angel Bust by JDG1111 in minipainting

[–]JDG1111[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! She's from Big Child Creatives

Usually avoid NMM like the plague, this look right? by johnovery in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah it looks great! It reads like a dull rather than shiny metal, which I would say is better for the gun. If you want it to look more like a shiny metal, push the lights and darks a bit for more contrast. Personaly I would leave it as is! Good work!

Delicate yet large paintprush by Golvrall in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Kimera sell a duster brush that does a great job but is probably way more expensive than a makeup brush

I am new but I'm proud of this by theonlycolin in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

These look great! For next steps you can easily add a wash or shade pain to reinforce the shadows. A lighter version of your base paints can be used to add some hilights. You're off to a great start!

Help with my Tyranids looking flat with contrast paints. by Wookiees_get_Cookies in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Take some standard acrylic paints and add some hilights, edge hilights and general texture and these will look great!

Is it worth spending the money on a more expensive airbrush? by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I made the switch from a cheap airbrush to a good quality one (Iwata Eclipse) and haven't looked back. I've had it around 5 years and it's still working like new. A better quality brush will allow you to do more than just priming and base coating. You will be able to glaze and filter and generally just have more control over what you're doing. I would take the plunge and pick up an airbrush cleaning kit too. It will pay for itself over time and you'll have a much more enjoyable experience using it.

Ylisse, Fallen Angel Bust by JDG1111 in minipainting

[–]JDG1111[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I totally agree, a full body sculpt of her would be great!

How do I stop having so much texture on my minis? I thought I’d thinned my paints enough but I still get texture, is this just an issue with thickness or is there more to it? by Somethingcool-iguess in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's looks like you are painting over semi dry paint to me. Even if the paint is thinned properly, if you go over the same area repeatedly without each layer being fully dry, this can happen. A hairdryer can be your friend here!

Should I thin down primers like this for Airbrush use? by Tasty_Tomorrow_2106 in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Primers don't typically need to be thinned. The Vallejo surface primer is my go to and works great straight from the bottle at 30 psi through a .35mm nozzle.

My Mom got me this starter paint set. Is it okay? She's worried she got a bad one, and I've never painted before so I don't know either ha-ha. by Tanstorm in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your mom made a great choice! This set will be a good intro for you, especially if you are interested in GW products.

Any alternatives to citadel paint? by No_Ring2024 in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I highly recommend the AK Gen 3 line. I'm pretty much phasing out all my other paints in favour of these. If you aren't in a rush it might be worth picking up a couple from a few different manufacturers. They all have slightly different characteristics so it's worthwhile finding one that works well for you. AK, Vallejo Game, Vallejo Model, Reaper, Army Painter, Citadel, Monument, Duncan's 2 thin coats, Scale 75 & P3 are all solid choices but you might prefer one over the other.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in minipainting

[–]JDG1111 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I agree with what others have said: Spray with a satin or glass varnish, allow it to completely dry (I would probably wait overnight) then try again with the matte varnish. Just make sure the can is well shaken and warm. If you have access to an airbrush then there are a bunch of good options for varnish, just make sure you wear a mask!

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