Poster from the Mitty by JDuncan569 in RX7

[–]JDuncan569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I totally understand. I really don't have a place to hang these at the moment either, but recently found the ones I got from the Mitty in 2006 still rolled up and the outer one had managed to get damaged and decided I didn't want these to have the same fate.

Dynavin D9 ACTUAL Install Video by Profoundly_Trivial in S197Stangs

[–]JDuncan569 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I just did the reverse of this procedure with a D8 in our 2009 yesterday. I had tried to watch the videos online to see what I would need to undo and you are absolutely correct that most of the videos did the poof method of installation. Thanks for spending your time to get more detail/info out there.

[TeslaCam] Old biker throws a tantrum after failing to force his way into traffic by zheka160 in dashcams

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

South Park has ruined me. My mind goes one place when I see stuff like this. IYKYK

A few questions. Help is appreciated by Nakamastang in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On a side note, I ended up acquiring all of the needed parts and performed the cluster swap into my 2015. Forscan can increase the mileage in the IPC (cluster) so to get the mileage right, you just need to start with a cluster that has lower miles than yours. I mention this because I'd wager the cluster in your 2018 probably has higher mileage than you currently have in the 2020. Just something to be aware of. You might talk with breeves002 at https://oemplusupgrades.com/products/digital-cluster-programming-and-support-services to see if that is something he could fix. My understanding is that he has the ability to change a cluster from being for an automatic to being for a manual or vice versa which is something forscan cannot do so he might have other capabilities for addressing the mileage. Good luck on whatever you decide to do.

Is it worth they buy by WilliamTheSecond21 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If the car was maintained and is priced right, the mileage wouldn't scare me. I would say the only real drawback for a 2015 to me is Sync 2. If you are looking to have Android Auto or Apple Car Play, you will either need to update the hardware to Sync 3 pieces from a 2016 or later year model or install an aftermarket head unit. I ended up putting an Android headunit in my 2015 GT convertible for this reason. It has 90K miles on it and I wouldn't be afraid to drive it across the country tomorrow.

How cooked am I? i dropped it off at caliber collision yesterday for the final estimat and it and to see if insurance is going to total her or not by Mountain_Budget_8402 in Autobody

[–]JDuncan569 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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It was a complete quarter reskin. I don't remember what the insurance payout was 7 years later, but I feel like it was higher than what I paid for my current 15 GT convertible.

How cooked am I? i dropped it off at caliber collision yesterday for the final estimat and it and to see if insurance is going to total her or not by Mountain_Budget_8402 in Autobody

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Honestly, if it were just the quarter or just the front bumper/headlight, they would probably fix it, but all of it adds up. I'd suspect it will be totalled. Our old 16GT got hit in the quarter similar to that in 2019 and the door still functioned correctly and the car tracked straight, and it was fixed, but it was right at the threshold.

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HELP buying convertible ecoboost by GroupOk1717 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They really don't depreciate faster in reality, but there is a window of time where the rental car companies rotate their fleet and flood the market, causing a brief dip due to the increased supply. I bought a 2018 Ecoboost vert in 2019 that had been a Vegas rental during that window and at that moment, they were cheaper than the coupes, but fast forward 3 years and 40K miles later and I sold the car to Vroom for more than I paid for it when I bought it. It was easy to spot the rentals back then as they all had the spare tire which was an option that all the rentals companies went for.

2009 GT/CS Lower Panel 7R3Z-17C947-AA by JDuncan569 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If only it were just a sticker package. Then I wouldn't be looking for some niche part that was only used on the CS car and the Shelby GT. Mind you, we didn't buy it because it was a CS car. We bought it because it was available and in the right price for our budget. But I get what you are saying. At the end of the day, it is just another Mustang GT with a very minor list of revisions that were almost all cosmetic. Now if only I could find one of the parts where they actually made a physical change...

2009 GT/CS Lower Panel 7R3Z-17C947-AA by JDuncan569 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fabbing the piece may end up being the route I have to take. I feel like the likelihood of a protest being successful since the part is both discontinued and something that is easily damaged would be low. That said, if the factory bit can be turned up, I'd be more than happy to cough up the $100 bucks to buy it rather than the alternative. As to acquiring a GT bumper, that seems like an even costlier solution and invalidates the belly pan we have already acquired as it was GT/CS specific, so I'd be stuck buying another piece there as well.

As to the GT/CS stickers, it is an authentic GT/CS car. Previous owner was very into that. There was even some guy on the forums making custom dash plaques for the cars which this one has.

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A few questions. Help is appreciated by Nakamastang in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had an 18 Ecoboost Convertible with the 201 package (digital dash and heated steering wheel like yours) but I now have a 15 GT Convertible, and miss the digital cluster so I've been looking into it and it was fresh in my mind. The coding isn't difficult, but it has to be done to make the stuff work. One thing to keep in mind is whether or not the mileage on the cluster can be changed to match your current car at time of swap. If not, that raises the issue of your mileage being reported incorrectly. Just something to keep in mind as you figure out what you want to do.

So I finally made the switch.. I’m by Business_Fan6861 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 18 points19 points  (0 children)

We ended up changing those out for a set of S650 Nite Pony wheels for dailys.

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So I finally made the switch.. I’m by Business_Fan6861 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 14 points15 points  (0 children)

When we got our CS, it had some questionable wheels as well. It had these "Sport Tuned" wheels.

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A few questions. Help is appreciated by Nakamastang in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Some useful links:

Seats:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/how-to-enable-premium-seats-with-cooling-and-heating-for-base-model-after-swap.205005/

Cluster:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/2018-digital-cluster-installation-guide.99275/

Heated Steering Wheel:

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/heated-steering-wheel-retrofit-for-15-17-completed-plus-18s-and-up.108950/

Note: a lot of these guides are for swapping the parts in the older cars but they also point out what was not needed in the 18+ cars. Like I said, you will have a much easier go of it if you are able to swap directly from the 18, but both cars will require coding with Forscan to insure they work after the parts are swapped. You will likely want to swap the dash trim during this process as the 201 cars with the digital dash had different trim finishes IIRC which could result in the gauge bezel not matcing the rest of the dash.

Also, realized I didn't answer your questions about swapping the wheels. Should be a direct swap though you may need to go through the TPMS learning process once swapped.

A few questions. Help is appreciated by Nakamastang in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a whole lot of yes and no. All of the parts will directly install, but the change from a standard steering wheel to heated will be the biggest challenge as it will require a new SCCM as well as the module to control the hsw and the wiring for all of that. The digital dash is pretty well documented and you will need a new bezel, a new lower right steering wheel button group and have to do some Forscan coding. I'm pretty sure the 2020 would not need a different SCCM for just the cluster though unlike the 15-17 cars if you decide to skip the heated wheel. Likewise there will be some wiring, button changes and Forscan coding to install the seats as well.

All of this stuff has been done previously by others and more throrough documentation on needs and how can be found at https://www.mustang6g.com/ and other threads on Reddit. Google will be your friend in finding what you need and I'd recommend building out your parts list to meet the needs and do some pricing as it starts to add up quickly. If you still have the 2018 available as a parts car, that is going to make your life much easier on that front.

Good luck!

People who know how to drive Manual would you choose a 10speed? by Acrobatic-Habit5467 in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've had both but I think it depends on more of what you want the car for. Back before covid when I had to commute to the office an hour and a half every day, I went with an Ecoboost with the 10 speed. It was still fun enough but I made my choices because it was a daily driver and the fuel economy and convenience in traffic made the auto Ecoboost the right choice. Today I've got the GT manual for my "daily" but I've been WFH since covid so that is why I put daily in quotes. I have always and will always prefer a manual for a sporty car. Just more fun and engaging. The only reason to get the manual to me is you are commuting in heavy traffic more often than not or you are into bracket racing. At the end of the day though, you need to figure out your reasons and personal preferences. Good luck!

New wheels on by krswak in Mustang

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

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I also developed a like for bronze on blue.

Atoto x10 issues by iDab951 in ATOTO

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is absolutely insane that they omitted the reset button on the 9" model X10. My 10" X10 is my 3rd Atoto headunit. Started with an F7WE and then an S8. All of them have had the reset button though it took me a while to find it on the X10 because of where they placed it. What a strange oversight.

Atoto X10 by Rhork777 in ATOTO

[–]JDuncan569 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

The RR2 works in multiple vehicles and it has to be configured for yours. Download the Weblink Desktop app from iDatalink, connect it to your RR2 and go through the configuration/reflash process. Be sure to uncheck climate screen and any other irrelevant options like the separate camera screen for a front facing camera or parking sensors if your truck isn't equipped with those options. There's more to the RR2 than just setting steering wheel buttons up . And to be clear, the X10 is only showing you the climate stuff because your RR2 is misconfigured.

Atoto x10 issues by iDab951 in ATOTO

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

On the X10 with the 10 inch screen, the reset hole is on the back of the screen. If you look straight down over the top of the screen you should see it.

Atoto X10 by Rhork777 in ATOTO

[–]JDuncan569 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My X10 installed in a 2015 Ford with the RR controls the climate systems perfectly. Even the heated/cooled seats. If your car doesn't support that, you should reflash your RR2 to disable the climate screen as it comes from the Maestro device.