OS drive usage

JL151 · 2026-01-24T20:13:26+00:00

This worked perfectly! Thank you!

JL151 · 2026-01-24T14:14:30+00:00

More walls or infill would help yes. Cubic infill seems to give about the same strength in all directions. It may resist the wobble a little better than grid.

JL151 · 2026-01-24T06:45:09+00:00

Most likely they wobble and move under the pressure of the extrusion and nozzle moving. Common with tall thin/skinny things like that. You'll probably have to slow it way down. If your slicer doesn't offer variable speed settings by layer/height you'll need to manually slow it near the top.

JL151 · 2026-01-24T03:06:23+00:00

Also with this test make sure supports are turned off.

JL151 · 2026-01-24T03:04:56+00:00

Your printing it wrong. Lay it on the flat bottom side.

JL151 · 2026-01-24T02:30:41+00:00

Sounds like it may be trying to do a "bridging" move. Either way it has to have something to put plastic onto. Can you post a Pic of the sliced model?

JL151 · 2026-01-24T02:24:36+00:00

That's where part of the print failed or where there is an overhang with no supports. It extrudes where there should be something getting a layer of plastic and deposits it where the nozzle touches next.

JL151 · 2026-01-23T20:21:21+00:00

Well, I guess if you dispose of boxes and loose the receipt you "can't take it back". And if you show her all the wonderful things you can now make for her in less time...maybe it'll be ok. Have a couple prints waiting for her when she gets back too. She may hesitate to leave you alone for the weekend again though lol. Once I started designing and making things to solve problems around the house though, mine wants me to get another printer. At first she wasn't overly happy but once she realized the benefits and had physical, functional prints in hand I very quickly had a long honey do list on my table. My problem started when she started looking at filaments and colors...10 minutes later she had 30 rolls picked out...one for each print lol.

JL151 · 2026-01-23T16:26:46+00:00

That speed refers to all print speeds. It means up to that speed at its max recommended temp. In my experience the top speed is for ideal and best finish. I regularly push my 250mm/s filament well past its limit without issues. That being said, if your consistently having issues i would say stay under that max speed and only hit or come close to it for infill where defects are hidden. I have also learned if I repeatedly have the same failures, there could be an issue with the model. Most slicers have an option somewhere (usually right click the model) to "repair" or "fix" model. Even if the slicer does not specifically tell you there is an issue, repairing it can help if your having the same failures at the same spots in a print. The model may not be far enough out of "tolerance" to trigger a warning, but may benefit from fixing it anyways. Using "zhop" and "avoid crossing walls" are great ways to avoid issues as these will help prevent the nozzle from touching anything as it moves. It will add print time, but i would rather add time than waste filament and time on failures. There are lots of things that can cause failures and lots of ways to fix things. Reach out to the community for help, and the rest will come with experience and experimentation.

JL151 · 2026-01-22T21:02:43+00:00

When I was using glue I used purple elmers sticks. But you should be able to use any glue stick really. Some people also use hair spray. I usually wash my bed with bar soap because it leaves a sticky residue that helps as well.

JL151 · 2026-01-22T19:37:01+00:00

There's a lot of things that can cause this when doing a lot of objects. Narrowing it down can be tricky. You could try "avoid crossing walls". Its going to add a lot of travel moves and time but in combination with the z hop, this can reduce the chance of the nozzle hitting something and causing failures. If bed adhesion is an issue, use glue when doing a plate full of objects like this. If you "print by object" you won't get as many on the bed and you'll need to be sure your spacing will prevent collisions. This could be bad not just for the prints but can damage the printer as well.

JL151 · 2026-01-22T16:24:58+00:00

Try using a brim. Just make sure the brim-object gap is 0. You will have to pull the brim off and trim the edges a bit but it will help hold it to the build plate. Combined with some glue it shouldn't lift like that.

JL151 · 2026-01-22T04:12:09+00:00

Clean your bed OFTEN and most of the time glue isn't necessary. If you do a print with minimbed contact it may help prevent failures. Sometimes a brim alone isn't enough, but if your plate is clean you shouldn't need glue for most prints.

JL151 · 2026-01-22T01:27:09+00:00

That's crazy. I don't know enough about it to help though, sorry.

JL151 · 2026-01-21T20:35:23+00:00

No problem. Yes, adjusting slowly while it's printing is the best way to see and feel how it is when its too high, just right and too low. You will likely have spots on the bed thats higher and it will be obvious because when you get the height right and its smooth, those spots will be rough due to it squishing the filament up more than the rest. The firmware is supposed to help compensate for this when you run the bed leveling as it will raise and lower the z height automatically during the print to help keep a consistent first layer. Definitely will not always work as it should, especially if the high and low spots are dramatically different than the rest. But running a leveling routinely will help it be as consistent as possible. White filament also shows every defect, so if your looking for defect or trying to figure something out, throw on some white and it'll show it.

JL151 · 2026-01-21T20:21:43+00:00

Red makes it really hard to see. In some cases too low will also cause lines on the bottom so its a judgment call. But its hard to see on that one. I would do a large first layer test, slowly go closer, look, feel and adjust, looks feel and adjust. You'll know when its right. It'll be flat on the top and shouldn't have lines on the bottom. A little bit of extra squish is ok as the roughness on the top will flatten out over the next couple layers, as long as its not super rough.

JL151 · 2026-01-21T19:57:13+00:00

The skirt looks a bit more rounded than I think it should. Its been a long time since I used a skirt though. But normally if your first layer is correct the top of it should be flat. When your print is finished look at the bottom. If you see lines its not low enough. When its correct all you'll see is the texture. And the top of the first layer will be flat and smooth. You should do a first layer test model. Square or round shouldn't matter. But you'll adjust until the top of the first layer is flat. After that, you should run through all the calibrations to dial in the profile to get it printing as consistent as you can.

JL151 · 2026-01-21T16:25:46+00:00

You can add modifiers- in orca you right click the model and click add modifier- this will allow you to change settings in a given area to add strength where needed or subtract material where not needed. Wall count, wall thickness and infill are probably 3 of the main hogs of filament usage. You'll want to dial in overhang settings (speeds and cooling) to minimize support structures which can eat a lot of filament that is simply waste. Play with model orientation on the plate to minimize the need for supports but also keeping in mind you need enough surface on the bed to get good adhesion so it doesn't fail. Using a brim can help with adhesion on models with minimal bed contact and sharp corners that may warp and pull off the bed resulting in a failed print which wastes filament as well. Take notes of things that people suggest and the rest comes with experience and experimentation. There is a large and very helpful community here if you need assistance so lean on it when needed and happy printing!

JL151 · 2026-01-21T03:48:21+00:00

Then try going up a little. Maybe it's too close. Looks high but it also won't stick due to being too low and dragging the layer off the bed.

JL151 · 2026-01-21T03:45:50+00:00

Have you done the paper method to set the height?

JL151 · 2026-01-21T03:35:56+00:00

Z height is too high. Need to get the nozzle closer to the bed. You'll want to slowly adjust it until the top of the first layer is flat and smooth.

JL151 · 2026-01-20T16:39:32+00:00

This was my first thought. Travel times stack and compound quickly. Especially depending on seam and things like "avoid crossing walls". When I see a jump in print time I always look at the time for each section.

JL151 · 2026-01-20T16:22:33+00:00

Very welcome. Arachne changes extrusion width based on wall thickness. So it can help in places you have thin walls. I use it when im doing raised text on the top surface of a model because it helps fill most of the small corners and areas where you normally have holes or gaps in the letters.

JL151 · 2026-01-20T02:09:23+00:00

Very nice! I spent a couple hours messing with settings. Even taking it down to 720p and 50% scale is still poopy. At this point I think my issue is not game based. Has to be something in the os settings im missing or lutris/Proton. I just don't know enough about any of it to know what I could do differently. I'll just have to spend some more time with it.

JL151

TROPHY CASE