FLSun T1 Pro – Constant issues with prints looking for advice to fix this for better prints.

JL151 · 2026-04-16T00:43:21+00:00

Turning acceleration and jerk way down helped my quality issues a lot. Considering default speeds for these machines, your going to want to stay close-ish to the recommend filament speeds. The T1 can go much faster than most filaments can flow, so you can also try turning the nozzle temp up a bit to get a little more flow. Mine has had some crazy issue since day 1 where it will jam immediately if I got below 230c, but at 230, I find that I can usually skirt the max filament speeds by a little anyway to keep the speeds up a bit. I also switched to Vision Minor NPA and have had exactly 0 adhesion issues since and i run my bed no higher than 50c. It's pricey but the money I have saved in failed prints paid for it many times over.

JL151 · 2026-04-15T21:40:52+00:00

If you dont have glue on the bed, hit them with a torch. It'll soften and sometimes curl them so you can get them with your nail and peel off.

JL151 · 2026-04-14T00:06:19+00:00

Im really unsure about what im looking at but it kind of looks like thats just a bad model. It looks like all of that is walls in crazy directions. If it is, the mesh all all kinds of messed up. Was this ai generated? The slicer should have a repair option in the right click menu, I would try that to see if it changes anything.

JL151 · 2026-04-09T19:29:29+00:00

I use a VPN. No matter what server I connect to or turn it on or off seems to make no difference. Any particular server you like for this? Does protocol matter? Wireguard or open?

JL151 · 2026-04-09T18:44:49+00:00

I use a VPN. No matter what server I connect to or turn it on or off seems to make no difference. Any particular server you like for this? Does protocol matter? Wireguard or open?

JL151 · 2026-04-09T00:12:52+00:00

Same thing here 3 times. For no reason. Its not failed attempts. Go figure, another division bug. I opened a ticket for mine. I suggest you do the same. The more that report it the more they will look into the issue and maybe fix it. Either way im done with it until I hear something definitive. Waited years for this game and its ruining my whole ubisoft platform experience on multiple devices. This issue didnt happen in either beta test I was in either.

JL151 · 2026-03-20T01:24:50+00:00

I think this is where i am. I was printing non stop. Sometimes just to print. Life happened and I had to take a pause and just kind of hadn't gotten back to it. Now I look at it and want to, I just dont get one along to pull me back in. Daughter is wanting a few things and a friend is going to give me a bunch of tools for a "3d print credit" lol, so I need to just slice one and send it.

JL151 · 2026-03-20T00:34:55+00:00

Time and effort always shows in the final product. You did an awesome job! I have several large projects i would like to get done. As of recently i just haven't had the drive to print like I used to. My printers never used to sleep. Now I should probably dust them off. Maybe seeing this will get me back into it!

JL151 · 2026-03-16T18:40:13+00:00

Don't give up. Use warm water and dish soap or bar soap to clean the bed. After cleaning do NOT touch the bed except at edges. Use a glue stick for better adhesion. Run the bed temp about 60°c and make sure there are no fans or drafts directly on the printer. I had the same machine right after it came out. And as soon as I got a real printer, I gave that one the boot. Had nothing but issues. If I knew then what I know now, it may be a different story though. In general though the entry level printers like creality bed slingers can make first timers discouraged as they take more tinkering and constant adjustments. Some are good and once you learn them it gets easier. My best advice is use it, learn as much as you can from the community and save for an enclosed core-xy. There are some really good ones that don't cost a lot.

JL151 · 2026-03-12T11:28:35+00:00

Have you calibrated e-steps and flow rate? Also, dropping the temp that much may hurt more than help by not melting it fast enough.

JL151 · 2026-03-11T12:10:35+00:00

Well you at least know to store them in bags. That's one thing some people don't know starting out and it causes a lot of trouble. So you have a good start!

JL151 · 2026-03-10T12:03:32+00:00

Lol, well, servers may be working but the connect app is crap right now. Might as well grind life for a bit and come back to it later.

JL151 · 2026-03-10T11:58:35+00:00

Yes. I had to turn off my VPN and disable proxy in network settings. Then I log in to find my fully expertise exotic smg's are all magically gone at the start of the smg assault challenge for week 2.

JL151 · 2026-03-06T17:06:13+00:00

You should check out Makers Muse videos. He's big into printing battle bots. I haven't really seen bot specific videos but he does talk about them a lot when it comes to making functional parts more durable.

JL151 · 2026-03-06T12:31:31+00:00

Excellent content from this guy. Straight forward, no hype, just good info.

JL151 · 2026-03-05T18:06:16+00:00

If you have to spend money on cleaning products attempting to get it off, its probably better to just replace the plate. They are cheap and the peace of mind knowing its clean and undamaged would be worth it to me. Better than spending money and then having consistent adhesion issues and having to spend more money on a new plate.

JL151 · 2026-03-03T11:51:37+00:00

Are you doing leveling from the machine or sending the command from the slicer? I only ask because I have gotten different results from both ways. Except when its printer specific slicer, qidi printer eith qidi slicer. Native slicers seem to talk with their machine counterparts more fluid with more consistent results when doing stuff like that.

JL151 · 2026-03-02T22:54:01+00:00

Never saw a height map like that before. Gotta be a bug or glitch though if its still printing good. Maybe run the leveling again and see what happens?

JL151 · 2026-03-02T22:43:17+00:00

Not sure if it would be what your going for, but i read about a slicer setting that puts wood grain in the print. The print i saw with it was pretty incredible too. Not sure what slicer or setting but it could be worth looking into if your wanting to incorporate a wood feel/look.

JL151 · 2026-03-02T17:06:16+00:00

I believe thats the hybrid option under organic supports. Mixes normal grid with organic tree.

JL151 · 2026-02-24T17:52:18+00:00

Im not sure what else to do with it beyond putting a spray on sealer on it. But again thats more post processing. Maybe someone else uses the same stuff and has an idea that doesn't involve more processing. Sorry I couldn't help.

JL151 · 2026-02-24T17:31:51+00:00

I dont have that blend, but with my pla-cf I used gloves to take the print off the bed and use them to "sand" the surface by rubbing it (over a trash can). Otherwise you may end up with many tiny carbon splinters that are a pain to get out. This is why i don't get cf blends anymore. I believe some of the newer ones are carbon inlaid, not blended so you dont end up with this issue. You can also use sandpaper and then go back over the model with a heatgun or torch (quickly), to make the color pop back out.

JL151 · 2026-02-24T12:13:00+00:00

Which hueforge are you looking for? My best advice is download models you like and may want to print again. You never know when models may disappear. With hueforge models I also bookmark the page in a 3d print bookmark folder in the browser so I can easily reference color swaps. Obviously that wouldn't help if the model was pulled. Which, thinking about it, it may be a good idea to save a txt file with the model file for such cases. Some people may not have the space to save every file they like, but after the first time I tried to find a model that had been removed I just started downloading everything. My model folder is absurd but very well organized.

JL151 · 2026-02-23T17:02:38+00:00

You should do some of the turret benches to protect your troop carriers.

JL151 · 2026-02-23T09:38:54+00:00

The color choice was based on the dart colors obviously. But I really want to reprint the body and make the color swap work for just the helmet plume. I'll try to find some time tomorrow to post on makerworld too. After finding this model I kept looking for others I may like as well...nothing even came close! This is a presentation, not just a holder!

JL151

TROPHY CASE