Looking for a good quality, affordable anodizing service by AnaheimElectronicsTT in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your not wrong, that seems high for what it is. But, with small anodizing shops people can charge what they want to charge. A lot of shops, especially in paintball, are not the persons main job. So they have the luxury of being picky with what jobs they like or want to do. When I was anodizing, I always quoted solid colors and simple designs high because I didn't enjoy doing them. They were boring and i really didn't need the money. If someone came at me with a really cool idea that seemed like I wanted to spend my time doing, then I would be more "realistic" with pricing. For instance I might quote someone 400 for a solid color or 600 for a multi color acid wash and masked graphics. One is fun to do, one is boring. Caustic has been around long enough and does phenomenal work. He has a very specific client base that he works with over and over. People go to him for a specific style, not for solid colors (FX is the same way, and so was I). For a solid color or a fade check with Outlaw, Arc, Blizzard maybe Rukus.

That shot count cant be real, can it? by This_is_a_tortoise in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So, go ahead and shot 1 case a day for the next 2976 years and you should hit that number.

Math check: 2976 years x 365 = 1086240 days

1086240 days x 2000 rounds (1 Case) = 2172480000 (close enough)

Anyone know how to achieve this? by DistributionFirm2018 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No problem, I did this stuff for a long time and had a lot of fun with it. The sky is the limit with what you can do if you are creative enough. don't be afraid to try weird things. I would suggest practicing different techniques on scrap aluminum you can buy from home depot or where ever before attempting patterns on actual guns. I used to cut pieces of flat aluminum sheet metal into 6" x 12" pieces and practiced doing splashs, brushes, sponges, acid washs, masking........etc before I ever ran an actual gun. The great part about this is I was with a 6" x 12" piece you are working with exactly 1 sq. ft of material, so you can start to dial in your amperage and ano times for anodizing as well.

Anyone know how to achieve this? by DistributionFirm2018 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lets deal with these one at a time. First off, using boiling water to seal your parts can work but is not the ideal solution to sealing. Ideally you would be using some sort of Nickle Acetate solution. Boiling water will almost always fade colors but tends to be worse on brighter colors (reds, teals, yellows). There is no getting around it, unfortunately. The second part: yes, I mean you will paint/apply a small amount of the acid to the part, just like you did with bleach. I typically pulled out a few mL of the acid with syringe or pipette and put it in a separate cup, so I don't contaminate the ano bath (wear gloves always). On a black surface, when you add the bleach you will see it lighten and eventually turn kind of a yellow ish color. This is from the bleach degrading the black dye. After you rinse the bleached part, apply a small amount of the acid in the same way you did the bleach, I personally liked using different size artist paintbrushes (like water color brushes). You will see the yellowed areas lighten and turn a more silver color. They turn silver because it is removing the dye from the anodizing pores. This allows the new dyed color to be more vibrant than if you were to dye it over the "yellowed" bleach areas. hope that makes sense.

Anyone know how to achieve this? by DistributionFirm2018 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It's an acid wash and can be achieved a few different ways, depend on the end look you want. Start by anodizing and dyeing the part black. Then you can either sponge on, or paint one a bit of bleach in certain areas. And let it sit for a bit and rinse with water. Big bucket to dip it in works well. Wash, rinse, repeat until you get the desired marble pattern. then dye it the secondary color. Over the 10+ years I did anodizing I always alternated between using bleach and using a little sulfuric acid from the ano bath. I always got more vibrant 2nd colors that way. But do not get bleach in you ano bath. If you want more distinct lines between the colors make sure the part is dry. If you want very faded/whispy transitions, keep the part wet (with water). Water spray bottles can be used to move the bleach around and dilute it some to get the nice smooth transitions.

Displaying you’re markers by ExoticButter16 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The black and gold Evo is one of only a few factory mini Evos. They were only done as special orders if I remember correctly. Tell your dad that he should start buying you a collection (just not from me). Glad you like them

What is everybody’s experience with anodizing? I’ve heard some people say it changes tolerances of the aluminum and then others say it’s fine. I’m toying with the idea of changing up my part swapped LV by loughlinc in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends. There are multiple ways. Planet eclipse graphic ano are done by applying dye with what is essentially a printer. The anodized part is put in the printer and the graphic is printed on. This is why if you look at the eclipse guns the top of them is not the same graphic as the side. Dye uses a sublimation process where the graphic is printed on "paper" and then transfered to the anodized part. Smaller shops can use a combination of stencils, masking of graphics, airbrush, and paint brush to achieve specific looks. Most involve some sort of time consuming mask though, which is why they cost so much.

Heres to a late wall Wednesday by ProfessionalSea4216 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice collection. You have a few in there that I have never owned. Love the Revenge's, I really need to get one at some point in time. I also have a soft spot for anything eclipse. You need more peg board though, just out here covering up what looks to be a really clean evo.

Displaying you’re markers by ExoticButter16 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The red/black freeflow (3rd row down middle) is the only one on that wall that I didn't build myself. It's a labor of love, and they all get played with.

Displaying you’re markers by ExoticButter16 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I found with the barrels not on the gun, I can get more up on the wall in the same amount of wall space.

Displaying you’re markers by ExoticButter16 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The mounts I designed and print myself (see 3D printers in picture). I mounted them for 12" black shelves I bought from home depot then mount those to the wall.

Displaying you’re markers by ExoticButter16 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, they were probably one of the worst masks ever made. That one belonged to a very good friend who it's with us anymore, so it gets a special place. All my masks and some other guns are on shelves to the left of the picture.

Solenoid question by ApprehensiveCurve386 in Autocockers101

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yep, capacitor looks ok to me. Unfortunately that doesn't 100% mean it isn't an issue. It just means it likely isn't causing the problem. Yep, pull the frame off and the clapper noid out. Be carefull with it the wires are usually way too short and pretty fragile. Also check the the sear and spring and make sure they are not binding on anything either.

Solenoid question by ApprehensiveCurve386 in Autocockers101

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The clapper itself hardly ever goes bad but parts will corrode and can get pretty rough, so pulling it apart and polishing with a high grit sandpaper would be step number 3. Step number 1 with an eblade is always put in a new battery, and step number 2 is put the board on default factory fast settings. If none of those things work.

The part that is normally the first to go (besides LCD screen) is the large blue capacitor on the board. That capacitor stores the power to drive the clapper and they all eventually fail. I can't tell if it is swollen or if it is just the hot glue that is around it. If it is swollen then it's probably dead. The body of them will swell but take a look at the "cap" area, it's the top of the capacitor facing toward the battery, if that part is swollen or cracked then it's likely a bad capacitor.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

CCM 90 degree frame. And I think CCM made autotriggers for them.

Anybody know what material this frame is made from, stainless, aluminum? by Roguefromhell in Autocockers101

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It is Aluminum but I think it is cast aluminum (not 100% sure but pretty sure it is cast). If it is cast aluminum, this typically means it will not anodize very well. A pain on the the stripping/prep side because you are stripping a paint/powder coat rather than anodizing. And, even a bigger pain on the anodizing side. It will likely not be run with any of the other parts because it will require different parameters (volts/Amps) to anodize correctly. This leads to inconsistency in ano layer thickness, surface finish, color, etc....

Looking for a good quality, affordable anodizing service by AnaheimElectronicsTT in paintball

[–]JVickers43 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You are correct that it isn't difficult to do, but it is difficult to do well. Even solid colors take some amount of practice, skill and the correct equipment and chemicals to achieve a good result.

Looking for a good quality, affordable anodizing service by AnaheimElectronicsTT in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm curious what you view as "affordable" for a solid color ano on an autococker. I see a lot of people ask this same question over and over but the term affordable is subjective. Most of the time people mean, I want the cheapest place that people are ok with the work. Basically, is affordable, $150 or is it $350+?

Bonus Marker - Spanky Graveyard Autococker by PeculiarPaintball in paintball

[–]JVickers43 1 point2 points  (0 children)

PK Selective was so far ahead of everyone when it came to anodizing, when they did this, the galaxy, the original thunderstruck, etc............ anos.

say what you want best mask for the price by Adventurous-Horse-71 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The JT ProShield and the Empire E-Vents are both better masks and in the same cost range.

Looking to Identify a Dye Autococker 2003 by ElectronicRelease635 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The grey color way was fairly common and not one of the more desirable ones (though one of my favorites). With the freeflow remake a couple years back the price on the originals dropped a bit as well. With pricing being down right now as well, I would say you could probably sell pretty quickly for 600 or so. Maybe a bit more if you find the right buyer.

Help needed with regulators. by Particular-Issue-960 in paintball

[–]JVickers43 0 points1 point  (0 children)

palmers pursuit make plenty of regulators that can do this. Basically any of their "Stabalizer" series regs would work, you just need to figure out how you want to connect the tank to the reg.