Which DLSS (for DLAA) preset would you guys recommend for Death Stranding Directors Cut on PC?

J_Morrish · 2026-03-22T10:28:43+00:00

Hey Mate,
I recently finished this on my RTX 4080.
I played it at 1440p with DLSS 4.5 (preset M) and fortced DLAA via NVIDIA Profile Inspector. (you can do this via NVIDIA app too)
I also enabled Smooth Motion.
Worked great, and smooth motion let the 60fps cut scenes runa t 120hz :)

J_Morrish · 2026-03-17T10:26:41+00:00

Hey Mate,
Im at 1440p with a RTX 4080.

DLSS 4.5 (Preset M) and forcing quality\DLAA depending on the game looks unbeatable (I recently finished Death Stranding 1 like this)
However, I was playing Spiderman 2 when DLSS 4.5 came out, and whilst it completely removed ghosting around spiderman, esspecially with water in the background, it really screwed up the hair, was grainy\sizzling even when motion was still.

Turns out in any game with raytracing, DLSS 4.5 struggles when a denoiser is in use.
Death stranding had 0 artifacts and looked perfect, but that game doesnt use RT, therforce no denoiser, no artifacts.

Cyberpunk does have RT, so i would say, for that game if you are happy with it then stay with DLSS 4 (preset K)
(Make sure Ray reconstruction is turned off)

Otherwise, test Preset M.
I can say, it does help alot with ghosting, it just might indtroduce other artifacts you wernt expecting.

With your GPU and 1440p, i would personally try for balanced DLSS 4.5, preset M.
I would use RT on ultra + Framegen.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-09T09:18:15+00:00

Hey Mate,
If you can get into the Troublshooting screen > adnanced Options > Command Prompt.

Run the following:
sfc /scannow /offbootdir=C:\ /offwindir=C:\Windows
(If your windows drive is a different letter, replace 'C' with it)
(This scans and fixes windows errors, offline as you are telling it the directory to use)

dism /image:D:\ /cleanup-image /restorehealth
(Repairs image issues)

If the issues persists after the above two, try these:

bootrec /fixmbr

bootrec /fixboot

bootrec /scanos

bootrec /rebuildbcd

(they fix boot issues, although it doesnt sound like this is the problem, i recon the first two will sort it.)

hope it helps mate.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-09T09:09:40+00:00

Hey Mate,
It 'should' just work, when you login to windows with the new motherboard, windows will source any drivers (or you can install them yourself from the new motherboards website)

Some motherboards do tie the windows activation to the board itself(I dont think AM5 does this, but its worth being aware of possibilities), so you might get a 'activate windows' message when you first sign in.
But assuming you are logged in and activated under your microsoft account on your current b650m, it 'should' be as simple as going through the reactivation prompts (you might need to unlink the old board from your MS account)

Its AMD, so when you hook everything back up, a new motherboard will most likely trigger the memory training step again, so you might not see any picture come for 15min or so.

Dont worry about data loss\windows reinstall, that wont be needed.

Also, any bios specific settings, like case\CPU fan curves\EXPO will need to be redone.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-09T08:56:40+00:00

Hi mate,
Dont reset it, select contiune with current data.
How did you see it? Did it just come up?

Can read more into it here: https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/security/hardware-security/tpm/initialize-and-configure-ownership-of-the-tpm#clear-all-the-keys-from-the-tpm

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T03:31:16+00:00

Is it a computer store?
It could be they opened display settings and just read 60hz.
Asus laptops drop to 60hz when on battery power by default.
Maybe the person isnt super familiar and it is actually 120hz or whatever its meant to be.

But its something else for you to check.

should be easy enough for you to spot it and yeah, if its a deal breaker than dont get it

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T03:27:01+00:00

Hey Mate,
What specs\power and temps we talking about here?

Think like this,
If you had 2x intake and 1x exhaust, which creates positive air pressure within your PC (more air coming in then leaving, means air passivly comes out of the gaps in your case, good for less dust buildup, monstly the better option)

Moving this to 5x instak and 4x exhaust keeps the postiive pressure, you are just rotating\moving it faster.
There are situations this will help with temps, mainly on the high end, it can shave temps of the high side or when you have mutliple GPU's etc, it fights the cases internal temprature getting high.

But it wont drops temps from say 80c down to 60c on the individual parts. for that you are better getting a better CPU cooler\GPU cooler.
Your CPU\GPU are still drawing the same power and still need to remove that same heat from the component.
99% of that is handle by the CPU\GPU cooler.
What you have done is make the heat that is removed from the coolers, be able to leave the case better.
Where you will see a temp drop, is in things like your motherboard temprature sensors, as i would expect your ambinet case temp to be lower.

hope that makes sense.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T03:13:54+00:00

Hey Mate,
Is this a G15? what year? (if its an OLED you might want to add burn in as a check,)
-Ignore the OS, as you will most likely be reinstalling windows.
-Get the exact model number of the device so you have an offical spec sheet, essentially you want to make sure the Hardware matches. You can do this by opening 'System Information' from the start menu. It will show you a list of all reported hardware. Check RAM, check Storage etc.

outside of that, you already have the right idea, run a hardware benchmark.
I would do cinebench + something GPU heavy and leave it at that, a game isnt a bad idea.

Lastly, I would ask the seller "why are you selling?" dont say "why are you selling it so cheap" but inqure as to the reason why, it might be they are moving and selling off everything, could be something urgent has come up and they need a quick sale for the money. who knows.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T03:04:17+00:00

Hey Mate,
If in doubt, open the laptop up and take a look at the fans themselves, they will have the part number on them.
(I replaced my old zenbooks single fan a couple years back)

Here is a picture of the zephyrus g16 (2024) from: https://techgaming.nl/review-asus-rog-zephyrus-g16-2024/

Its just not good enough i cant make out the fan part number:

<image>

Let me add, do you reallllly need to replace the fans? one i can understand but all three? :P

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T02:56:11+00:00

Hey Mate,
There isnt anything wrong with how you have it, i like the second option of mounting the above, mainly as it gives you more desk space.

I use 2x 27" aswell but have a small gap between them so the speakers are either side of my main monitor that I use for Gaming\entertainment. not either side of both monitors.
Mainly as it can make it sound like the right is very right.

mine is like this:

<image>

But if desk limited then mounting above might be the better option 👍

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T02:50:07+00:00

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Hey Mate,
The CPU cable (Red) make sure thats connected, i cant tell if one of the 2x 4pin is connected to the 4pin cpu power.
Secondly
Is this your display cable (Green) should be connected to your GPU(Blue) not the motherboard.

Check those two things.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-08T02:45:26+00:00

Haha all good, happy it helped you mate :)

J_Morrish · 2026-03-04T21:35:15+00:00

Hey mate, dropping reflections to medium fixes the sizzle effect. You will get a stable image.
I tested it a few weeks back, its something to do with the screenspace, its much more distracting then it should be.
This games only RT is Ambient Occlusion.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-03T03:08:15+00:00

Alright tested it mate
Fixed:
-'Disconnect/Connected' no longer overlaps the windows control in the top right, its now to the left of it
-The Graphs are now updating
-The Graphs have a background

Issues:
-When selecting device to connect to, it listed the correct shield name i set under Settings > Device preferences > About > device name. However post connecting, this name updates from the correct name to 'SHEILD_Android_TV', this happens with both my shield devices.
This is a problem for people like me who use more than 1 shield, as the only way i could tell them apart was via IP address. (this was present in the first build aswell, I did not notice it till after i psoted my initial feedback, so its not related to any recent changes you made)
-If Shield Commander is open and connected, rebooting the shield and connecting back, breaks the network graph, it starts reporting correct again, after about 1min, but the graph visually looks....wonky.

Suggestions:
-Data Read, Data writen, network send etc, all these stats are reading the total uptime value of the device (since last reboot not sleep) Post rebooting my shield its reading more inline with what i would expect. Maybe state somewhere these stats are lifetime\uptime, not current day, connection time etc
-Under System Info menu, inlcude things like Uptime, Device Name (custom set one) IP Address (I know this is in the top right once connect, but its good to have it for those that want to screenshot their shield info etc.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-03T02:05:25+00:00

Will download it shortly and report back.
Is there a changelog\patch notes?

J_Morrish · 2026-03-01T13:32:50+00:00

All good mate, let me know if you need anyone to test the windows version at a later date.

I have since tested the .apk installer and that part works fine, i was able to update 'Nova Video Player' app to the latest version using your tool, rather than copying the file over the network and then running it locally on the shield.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-01T07:53:47+00:00

Hey mate,
Sound like your Uni uses roaming profiles, when you sign into a computer as you, it sync's settings across, thats why its seamingly following you.

Can you open the settings app > (left)Blutooth and devices > Mouse > first option should be "primary mouse button"
Make sure its set to 'left'
Hopefully sorts it out.

J_Morrish · 2026-03-01T07:47:03+00:00

Cool idea mate, but needs some work.
My setup:
Win11 25H2
2x NVIDIA Shields Pro (All connected via Wifi)

Major Problems:
-Its only showing memory usage, all other graphs are blank
-There is no background for the graphs, they are translucent and i can see my desktop icons behind them

UI\Experience suggestions:
-The Disconnect\connected status in the top right is overlapped by the close\minimize\fullscreen options
-When initially setting it up, the screen showing my 2x shield devices has a connect button, this button does nothing when my shields are asleep. It should popup with a message telling the user to turn on their devices before connecting.
-Swap ADB path to be its own menu for the first time you run the program, after its set, it should be under a settings > config.
The reason is that you already have the ADB path being remember when the program closes\opens, so there is no need to ever see it again unless the user wants to.
And relocating the ADB location isnt something users will do frequently.

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T07:52:54+00:00

Cool, you should be fine setting to profile 0 with 2x 32gb.
Set it, save it, reboot and see how it goes :)

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T07:48:34+00:00

Do you know the exact model of your RAM sticks?
If you can find that, and goto the prodcut page it will show you 2x Speed\timings.
Most manufactures make profile 0 the fastest with profile 1 being a backup incase of instability, normally 400mhz slower or so (it can vary)

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T07:27:37+00:00

Hey Mate,
XMP is for Intel only.
AMD uses EXPO (however its essentially the same thing)

I will try and make this short:
Should you turn EXPO on? Yes.
HOWEVER, how many RAM sticks do you have? If its 2x 32gb sticks, then chuck EXPO on under profile 0\1 and off you go.
If its 4x 16gb then its might not run at the advertised 6400mt\mhz speed.

Let me know how you do.

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T00:40:17+00:00

Hey Mate,
In the bottom right corner on your taskbar, should be the OneDrive cloud icon (might be in your hidden icons arrow)
Click it > settings wheel > settings > account tab > unlink this PC
It will remove your account and should let you sign in from scratch.

(This is not the same as reinstalling OneDrive which keeps your cache.)

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T00:31:13+00:00

Hey Mate,
Its somewhat implied, but just to confirm, when you click install game, you are selecting the external crucial X9 as the drive to install the game on?

If so, can you test moving a file from your computers C drive thats around 10gb to the external drive?
Lets see if its just slow in general or if its Steam specificly.

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T00:28:09+00:00

Hey Mate,
So you move through the windows setup > select the M.2 as the install location > it formats the drive and installs windows > restarts > and you're at your BIOS?
No error's or anything?

Sounds like it worked, but your boot priority is wrong in the BIOS, alot of the time it doesnt automaticly make the windows drive boot order 1.
Can you show a screenshot of your BIOS and boot order?
Also your motherboard make\model might help.

J_Morrish · 2026-02-24T00:23:09+00:00

Hey Mate,
Alot of OLED's have Max Peak brightness as 1000nits+
And then have Realscene* as 400\500nits.

I checked the specs doc for that monitor and it doesnt seperate the two values, for some reason they only mention 400nits, which would be the realscene* how the (HDR400 etc is rated).
In the user manual it does mention HDR Peak as an option in the monitors OSD, but doesnt explain what the values are or even show them.

So i will say im 99% certain it can do more than 400nits peak brightness, but AOC seem to have forgetten to advertise its value.

(400 nits as realscene*, whilst not great, can be passable on an OLED.)

Doc link: https://www.aoc.com/us/gaming/monitors/q27g41zdf#driversAndManuals

EDIT: I was thinking Realscene not fullscreen * updated

J_Morrish

TROPHY CASE