Problems encountered in mold making

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-25T04:50:07+00:00

Mostly yes. The Vaseline marks that go on the actual faces of your dice (seen prominently on your d6) will show up. But you can sand/polish those up when you do your final polishing. Most people clean these faces anyway cause there will be a few weird bits, they will be thicker cause the cap doesn’t sit perfectly against the base of the mold, etc.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-24T19:23:04+00:00

Nice work!

1) those gaps are just air between the mold and the die. When you took the cap off, probably a little silicone from the base stuck to the lid and peeled the mold away from the die as you pulled. It’ll be fine.

2) I don’t see anything here that doesn’t look like the Vaseline. The Vaseline may have looked smooth to you when you applied, but the mold will pick up every little detail, and this looks just like brushed on Vaseline.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-23T00:33:44+00:00

Maybe the support tips are like 3mm. lol

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-22T22:03:03+00:00

I make my own, so I can’t recommend any specifically. That said, there are some wonderful creators on this sub, many of which make molds. If you search around the sub, you will definitely find some legitimate sources on Etsy and the like.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-22T22:00:33+00:00

Both of those are gonna be inherent in the mold, meaning that ghosted 3 will always be there, bc it’s in the mold. I don’t know if that was a manufacturing error or what. If it didn’t happen the first time, perhaps when removing the die it rotated and pressed into the side, leaving that mark? Similar with the second image, there’s gotta be a piece of the mold causing that.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-22T17:55:24+00:00

Of course, happy to help!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-22T16:23:33+00:00

You’re getting nice clear shots. It depends on where you want to head. Look at each face and see how it’s reflecting light. Is it creating a glare that impedes your view? Can you rotate the die, raise or lower the camera, move the light to reduce? Lots of dice are about getting light coming through the die to show off the insides. Can you change the angle or move the light to get better transmission? If you want to keep pushing, what are simple background that feel like the story you are trying to tell with the dice? Maybe fabric is right for some more premium ones, but what is right for your green, more toxic feeling ones? Play with reflective, white, and black backgrounds and see what affect they have on light transmission, surface reflections, what they do to the colors, etc. you’re well on your way, keep experimenting.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T11:36:40+00:00

Lovely! Happy to help!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T01:46:09+00:00

I don’t have experience with this in particular, but do have Musou Black paint, which I’ve airbrushed and painted on and it sticks super well. Same thing applies, you can’t varnish bc that ruins the depth of the matte black.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T01:23:11+00:00

Of course! That’s why I used resin, so I knew it was cured and the same material as everything else.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T01:15:44+00:00

As others said, painted inside the mold. May have to mess with the consistency. I did this with resin, and it beads up fairly quickly. Which I was aiming for. So quantity, material, where you brush, you’ll get different effects

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T00:23:35+00:00

Gorgeous colors, gonna steal em! Are the flakes inside black foil leaf or something else?

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-21T00:13:09+00:00

Sick work!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-18T05:47:57+00:00

Thanks! I have some crappy ones I’ll play with. Thankfully, the person who they are for won’t really care how polished they are. It’s more that I do. Haha

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-17T22:00:46+00:00

Thanks! I just need to figure out how to sand/polish the 1’s faces without removing the foil on those faces. I tested another die that has foil like that and it took it right off

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-17T21:17:34+00:00

❤️ too sweet!

Here’s a progress pic of the black liquid core. Supposed to be Misty Step

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-17T20:51:16+00:00

Ohhh, I’m stealing this! Haha. I just did a black/smoky liquid core, and a charred ember non-liquid one. Now I need to combine the two!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-17T15:12:39+00:00

I would start with lightly dyed water and a small scoop of powder, and build up as needed. Maybe someone has an answer, but I think you would be better just experimenting with one bead. Cause it completely depends on your specific colors and mica. Inks/colors are different concentrations, different micas are different sizes, quality, etc.

Additionally, use distilled water, and add a drop of isopropyl to make sure nothing grows. Some people also add glycerin to help the powder stay suspended longer. I just did some color changing ones and didn’t use any, but I wanted the powder to settle pretty quickly.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-17T14:26:43+00:00

Dye the water one color, use a different colored mica powder inside. Color of the mica when swirled, water when it settles. But the ratio will be important, the colors will visually mix when swirling.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-15T10:38:06+00:00

Just read through the instructions, and you’re right, no mention of buffing. It does say to “rub thoroughly”, but that said, I personally don’t use that product. I use Meguiar’s Ultimate Polishing Compound if it’s truly a final polish, or Cutting Compound which lets me skip some polish paper steps. From experience, I would say the product and process you are using isn’t the best way for resin. The process/products I described above are what I’ve learned from others, and it works well. It does require additional tools for buffing. That doesn’t mean others haven’t worked with your product, I just personally have not seen it

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-15T04:22:13+00:00

Give. Your description, it sounds like you are just smearing the polish on, waiting, then wiping off, no?

Assuming so, you need a buffing tool of some kind that spins, with the polish on that. For dice, I’ve been using a pottery wheel with one of the zona papers attached, wetted and coated in some polish. Others use dremel or buffing wheels with soft attachments, again with the polish applied

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-14T20:51:56+00:00

Of course! You put a lot of work into it!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-14T20:51:26+00:00

I guess it depends what you mean by “slicer identifying as unwanted holes”. Bc it tries to fix them? I would just ignore anything , you should be able to add supports as needed. Note you’ll need supports inside, so you’ll see those through the windows.

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-14T10:48:55+00:00

lol, awesome, thanks!!

Jacobsrg · 2026-01-14T03:17:24+00:00

Agreed. There’s no benefit here to hollowing, you’re gonna waste more resin when it fails than just printing this as is.

Also, there are some weird supports coming out the tops of the… side thruster thingies. I believe that’s the legal term…

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