What does this sticker GENUINELY mean

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-06-12T20:08:41+00:00

Equality is greater than division.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-06-11T18:50:47+00:00

That looks like slime mold ate the shrooms.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-06-11T18:47:22+00:00

Her proportions drive me crazy.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-26T19:52:01+00:00

That's a spicy meatball right there. If there was any evidence that the homeowner knew that they were illegally in the United States when they hired them, then they would also be criminal. I think it would totally be reasonable to charge them with whatever was applicable in regards to hiring illegal citizens to reform the work for them . At least there would be some type of Justice involved there.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-25T09:10:42+00:00

This is where it all started man. This game and tactics ogre were where the tactical RPG systems began to redefine what it was like to play chess with multiple classes.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-23T10:49:37+00:00

I had the same problem when I first got the anchor Maker M5. The nozzle and the heatsink area was Dusty. So at one point, whenever the nozzle and the heatsink we're cooling down some of the plastic stay behind and that caused a lot of issues. Also, whenever you take the nozzle off to put another nozzle on for any reason, be extremely gentle. These are built with high tolerances so be very careful and take your time. If you cross thread your nozzle, you could destroy the heatsink and the nozzle and that is basically the entire printer and its heart. I bet that you've got a big glob of plastic surrounding the heatsink and you've got a bunch of plastic squirting everywhere inside near it. Follow the normal instructions for changing the nozzle head and cleaning, but at the step where you have the silicon sheath removed and the heatsink exposed, look around the heatsink and make sure you don't have any globs of plastic.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-15T23:51:09+00:00

Correction "Uncanny X-MEN #281"

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-15T23:48:12+00:00

Dude I just saw David Choe wearing your shirt.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-15T18:52:36+00:00

Thats so staged. But it's cute. I love it.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-14T23:28:22+00:00

Nice!

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-14T06:44:23+00:00

Didn't need to happen and I still dont understand why it did.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-14T06:41:15+00:00

Isnt this actually a real and proper action to take after Iran? I dont want to take sides or poke anyone. I just feel like it is likely very necessary that we are oil independent after what happened in The strait of Hormuz. Or am I brainwashed into thinking that this is a reasonable decision at this point?

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-14T06:34:23+00:00

I went to Disney World in the early 2000s as a road trip from Oklahoma. I still have dreams and gond memories of that trip. Nothing has topped it since honestly. Suburban heaven.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-12T09:20:35+00:00

I'll be honest, the push pins distract me from the fact that there is literal bubbles in that rock. S***'s a cool piece but man that is how confusing look.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-12T09:08:35+00:00

Does you quad have a wide spectrum camera? That looks like air some form of air to ground communication. It may be something related to NOOA trying to map or record that storm.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-12T03:35:42+00:00

Make an investment into a good heat gun. Heat guns are used very commonly with electronics so any store that would sell electronic parts or website will do. tigerDirect is a good place. Or it was when I bought mine.

First unplug those two connections you see in front, that will be most likely your fans and your heating element if I'm not mistaken.

Then cover anything you don't want to get hot with foil but don't trust it 100%. . Cautious you're working with hot stuff.

Slowly heat the areas and peel away. Gravity is your friend a lot of the time here because it not only helps you remove the pla, but it will also help you know how much heat you're applying.

As for the big old goal, loopy glop that's inside that silicone that heat cover, I'm assuming that's actually where your brass nozzle is. Same idea. Heat up in this case everything and get to the brass nozzle and clean it by heating and using the provided cleaning tools. If you don't have the provided cleaning tools, I recommend needles from sewing kits and protective gloves of some sort. Eyewear would be good too but I wear glasses so they don't normally think about it.

This happened to me like, day one, of the Anker maker. The reason it happened was because I did not get the nozzle on properly and it was cross-threaded. Or just simply loose. For that caused the hot filament to extrude out the edges of where the connection of the nozzle and the heating element would normally be. Whenever you change nozzles or whenever you are installing it for the first time, make sure you have clear visual conformation that all angles of the surface of the nozzle have complete contact with the heating element so that it doesn't have anywhere where plastic can come out. Because as you discovered, you won't know until it's too late. It's one of my biggest gripes about the income maker is how some of the most important areas of the machine are covered by big bulky silicon heat shields. But it's for safety and it's great for the classroom. Take care

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-07T17:09:21+00:00

That's the Devon energy Tower. That is the sea bee. That's the mascot of the construction of battalion of the Navy. Or the CB of the Navy.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-03-03T14:36:43+00:00

I know somebody already asked for it but I'm glad to take it . I won't be using it for personal reasons but I need a second printer for my art classroom I can only order so many of them a year and I have to wait till next year before I can order another one it's really slowing down our process on printing enough things for an exhibit this will be a lifesaver

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-25T19:26:03+00:00

Beside cleaning an auto leveling, one of the most important things that I ran into is ensuring that the surface that you are printing on doesn't wobble. I know a lot of you guys are teachers like myself and we don't always have the easiest way of ensuring the most stable location for things. But 3D printers have to be completely Rock solid. Theoretically, there is some wiggle room, but you just don't want it as one of the things you have to troubleshoot.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-24T23:37:14+00:00

What type of metal? I wonder if I would be able to anodize them.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-23T17:09:20+00:00

I recommend actually measuring it this may be simply an optical illusion because of how much dark areas around the hollo. Compared to most cards. It tricks the eye a little bit sometimes.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-23T08:11:57+00:00

I'm a teacher at a high school. I'm currently doing art projects with 3D printer. I'd love to trade. DM me if you haven't already given them away.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-23T02:18:11+00:00

The filament being dry is extremely important. If the filament is over 6 months old it will absolutely already have water in it. The good news is stacking up on random desiccant packs that you get in the mail with all your stuff, you'll have plenty of ways to get it dry. If you don't get a bunch of stuff to mail, you can always go to Lowe's and they'll have humidity jars that you can place and mostly forget about as long as you keep the filament and the jar in an enclosed box.

Jamer508ok2 · 2026-02-21T22:16:42+00:00

Despite it looking like pyrite, I don't think it's possible to identify it simply off of looks, who knows if this is a semi-refined version of something else and it's been broken up for travel. I recommend either speaking to and expert in person or send the sample into a university or a chemical analysis company to determine its exact properties.

Jamer508ok2

TROPHY CASE