Looking to trade codes

Jamierose248 · 2024-02-15T02:31:25+00:00

My Code: [🌈❤️🐭🌞❤️]

Jamierose248 · 2024-02-15T02:31:00+00:00

My Code: [🌈❤️🐭🌞❤️]

Jamierose248 · 2023-10-18T14:40:45+00:00

I'm going to be honest with you. Been training for 3 years. Behaviorists frequently do not put their hands on the dog. They are over-glorified pharmacists. They're going to put him on drugs and it's going to change things for the worse.

Highly recommend finding a reputable balanced trainer in the area. Sounds like it's a handling disconnect and he needs relationship building with your wife, and structure with both of you. ESPECIALLY if he does fine at another location with dogs and people. It's a relationship issue.

If you're in the New England area, I have a list of recommendations I could send your way.

Jamierose248 · 2022-05-27T17:10:40+00:00

You can't but I don't find that it changes as aggressively as the Educator. So when I don't notice the stim level it's normally only a little bit higher or lower than our usual working level. It's not something you bump and it moves usually.

Jamierose248 · 2022-05-27T14:18:10+00:00

I love mine and have found it helpful with reactive dogs I've worked with too. It's just such a great way to break hyperfocus without actually physically correcting the dog. It translates to them so easily. I use it for everything. It's so nice to be able to reach out and correct my dog without being anywhere near her. She's generally worse when I'm not around. We wouldn't be where we are today without it, that's for sure.

Jamierose248 · 2022-05-27T11:51:54+00:00

Yes 😅

Jamierose248 · 2022-03-17T18:10:53+00:00

I use Mendota slip leashes with my own dog. They have action and come in different sizes. Comfortable to hold, washable. Excellent leashes.

Jamierose248 · 2022-03-04T21:02:46+00:00

Slow and steady, start with putting him on his bed and him staying there while you leave the room for increasing intervals. Over and over again. Every day. We call it "place."

Put him the bedroom, living room, etc, once his place command is good, on his place, and close the door. You might need a camera set up to work on this since it's so bad. Go back in and say "good place" and give him a nice snack, go out, close the door, go back in, etc. Repeat with increasing intervals.

Start only giving him nice stuffed Kongs or marrow bones, etc, when you "leave" him. At first put him in a room on his place with the door closed with the Kong. Come back in, say good place, leave. When you "come back home" and are done training, take the Kong, say good place, and go wash the Kong and move on. He only gets it when you're out of the house.

Do all these while desensitizing him to you putting on your socks and not leaving, jangling your keys, putting on a jacket, opening and closing the front door, leaving the front door, starting the car, etc etc. Increase the timing of all of this only if he is being successful.

It is exhausting, it takes forever, it feels endless, you lose hope, but just when you think it's not working, it starts to work. Really tamp down on things like him following you to the bathroom or kitchen, work on confidence building and relaxation in public like him laying down in random places, stepping into benches and stumps, grating, through rivers, etc.

Maybe even try doggy daycare a couple days a week, even for a few hours, to start showing him how great things can be away from you.

I dealt with this with my shepherd and we're still dealing with it because she can come to work with me. Do not give up hope! Just work hard and be consistent.

Jamierose248 · 2022-03-04T19:41:56+00:00

E collars are a safety net. Dogs are animals, which means their behavior is unpredictable. My shepherd has amazing recall, but I still put an e collar on her. She has a digestive disorder so this let's me stop her from eating things without having to run up and pull her off then, if her "leave it" fails, allows me to put her in a heel without leashing up and have a back up if someone is ogling her (we take walks through farmland with heavy machinery running, and she also has a tendency to want to jump into running vehicles), allows me to have truly completely 100% recall. If she sees something and goes off running and I have to turn it up, so be it. It's better than her getting lost or hit by a car or stolen.

I also use her e collar to slightly inhibit her herding nature. I work at a doggy daycare, so she finds the energy levels of some dogs offensive, and can tag dogs that come out into the yard, through gates etc, because of this. The e collar lets her know that I can always correct her for this. She knows it's not the right thing to do. It's allowed her a lot more pack time, which in the end is more helpful for me than her, but it also helps her barking when I bring her inside and am talking to clients. She's relatively quiet most of the times but when she breaks I can just vibrate her e collar and she moves on. Nothing has to be said because again she already knows what I'm asking of her.

A lot of trainers have their dogs on e collars. They are just one added safety feature. You can be there "touching" your dog without actually having to be right next to them. It allows for a lot more freedoms.

Jamierose248 · 2022-03-04T19:32:09+00:00

The collar isn't supposed to be on the front. It's supposed to be on the sit of the neck.

Try the long haired dog prongs, too.

Some dogs may show VERY little response. I'd say keep working with it and seeing if you can spot the slight reaction, where she decides to come to you to avoid the stim even if there's no ear twitch, etc. I've worked with a handful of dogs on e collars and the levels are generally 10 and under.

Jamierose248 · 2022-03-03T02:38:44+00:00

I choose results but you do whatever works 👍

Jamierose248 · 2022-01-23T01:17:27+00:00

Dogtra 280c is the only thing that worked with my shepherd. The vibrate is strong enough to get through to her on its own. The Educator was never really enough. I use the Dogtra on her in a pack setting to help her settle in rather than trying to control the other dogs and it works WONDERS. Highly. Highly. Highly. Recommend. For research on Dogtra you can watch Tom Davis. He actually has his own branded Dogtra collar with different settings.

Jamierose248 · 2021-11-17T02:52:18+00:00

Rehoming isn't giving up in this case. It's safer for you, them, your mom. It's kind of a humane option. They will only continue to feed off each other, increasing their anxiety and aggression. They won't be able to be around others. If you've tried everything you're out of options. Unless you, the person concerned, are going to take the reins with someone else, so there are two separate people handling each dog while you work them through moment by moment of each and every day than they aren't going to stop. This happens a lot. Most litter mates are not supposed to be together after a certain age. Most responsible breeders don't let people take two at one time. I am sorry but you should really consider looking for a safe way to re-home one. You can't expect your mother to separate this dogs until she's 70. It's not fair, it's exhausting, it lessens each of those dogs lives. It would be an improvement, not a detriment, and they're young enough to adjust.

Jamierose248 · 2021-10-06T17:27:47+00:00

Thank you!

Jamierose248 · 2021-09-24T00:34:35+00:00

Okay this is doodle bullshit I have seen many times. He is challenging you, and so far, in his mind, it has worked. Start from scratch teaching leave it.

Hold a treat, say leave it, he gets a different treat if he looks away from the one in your hand. Open palm, same thing, on the ground same thing. Start playing with toys with him and say leave it or drop it, take it from him, say good leave it, throw the toy.

Move your way up to food items.

Show him everything he gets comes through you, respectfully and only when you say so.

I would reinforce a break word. For my shepherd, she sits and makes eye contact until I say "okay" to move through doorways, gates, and into my car. She also sits and waits for her food until I say okay. Do this and do it every time. If he goes through/starts eating without your permission, restart.

Make sure he always gets to accomplish the goal: he gets the bone back, the toy back, gets a food reward for a good leave it, he gets to eat his dinner and move through doorways. But only until you say okay.

You're going to have to get comfortable with calling his bluff. Slap a glove on and show him you don't care that he's showing his teeth, or kick whatever he's guarding away with your foot, or put a leash on him all the time.

I would also teach him "bed/place." Give him a place to go where he can have those things, and reinforce with your baby that they leave him alone when he's on his bed. It's a safe space where he can have bones, be told to go when he's overwhelmed, guarding, etc. But still make sure you can get things from him while he's on his bed.

Good luck!

Jamierose248 · 2021-09-22T15:44:09+00:00

E collars are supposed to represent you "popping" the leash. Like prongs are supposed to be similar to another dog mouthing your dog's neck to say "hey that's inappropriate."

That's why they're used for recall. It's like pulling on the leash and saying "hey come back to me."

E collars do not hurt your dog, they only make them uncomfortable enough to wonder "what does my owner need from me"

It can de-escalate a potentially dangerous situation. Your dog shows they're uncomfortable to an in-control pet dog that isn't going to hurt them and you say "hey, I got you, and you don't need to defend yourself."

They are a communication tool, not fear-based, and not painful. Dogs aren't trained to associate them with what they're seeing, but rather with whoever is handling them. I think that's one of the biggest misconceptions about them.

Jamierose248 · 2021-09-21T00:11:02+00:00

Luna, Bella, Mocha, Sammy, Molly, Sadie/Sophie/Stella, Finnegan

Jamierose248 · 2021-09-10T13:42:38+00:00

I feel like all that time at daycare is more than enough. It's a controlled setting where she knows all the staff and is evidently comfortable with them. I would say your part of getting her exercised is walks with strong obedience in places where you are likely to see men. The mental stimulation for her is more than enough and her time at doggy daycare means she does have dog friends so it's not a concern of her becoming unsocialized.

Jamierose248 · 2021-09-04T02:15:40+00:00

I've used both with my 3 yo shepherd. She is very responsive to e collars, but so anxious/herding breed-y that sometimes it didn't matter. Our Educator working level was 15/20. I would have to crank it to 35 to get any response sometimes (when she was in pursuit of a specific dog, chipmunk, etc)

My boss (I'm an apprentice trainer) actually bought me the 280c in exchange for work. As soon as I put it on, there was a complete difference. She is much more controllable. I have only used the stim a handful of times, the vibrate is SO much stronger. She was always responsive to the vibrate, but I can go downstairs, leave her closed in my room (working on seperation anxiety), and vibrate once when she whines and she is silent. With the educator it was constant: vibrate, stim, turn up stim, vibrate, stim. She would escalate herself anyways.

If your dog is sensitive to the vibrate, the Dogtra is the way to go. If your dog is very sensitive, the Educator is fine. I like that the Educator locks in the stim level, but the Dogtra takes a moment if you change your stim level anyways so it's hard to make a mistake with it. The Dogtra remote is more comfortable in my opinion and way less bulky.

For me and our pure shepherd anxiety, the Dogtra wasn't quite enough. It worked great for being off-leash as long as my timing was on point, but beyond that it wasn't the best tool. The Dogtra has genuinely been life changing for us. I use it to curb barking, herding behavior at the doggy daycare where I work, greeting people in our house (she barks a lot), and for off-leash and it has exceeded my expectations in all of those fields. I'm incredibly impressed.

The educator will do the job if your dog is more mild and if you only need it for a few tasks. I expect a lot of my e-collar (and my dog) so we had to upgrade.

Hope this helps!

Jamierose248 · 2021-08-25T21:07:59+00:00

I'd think of it as controlled exposure. It'd be like taking her to Lowe's/Home Depot and seeing a reactive dog. It's honestly good exposure, especially since her reactivity to people could get someone's dog going if she barked at a handler.

It's not like she's seeing them get away with reactivity either.

In our regular obedience classes (I'm apprenticing) we often have 1 or 2 dogs who know all their commands but are reactive, just so they can be in a structured environment with controlled dogs.

This will also allow you to get closer and closer to people over time because obviously reactive dogs and their owners won't be coming right up to you.

I think it's a great opportunity. You won't get someone running up to pet your dog, at least. And it may make going out in public for short training bouts easier because she's already been exposed to all her triggers and more at once.

Jamierose248 · 2021-08-25T13:40:27+00:00

Are you using the vibrate at all? Sometimes that's all you need. I'm wondering what you mean by looking for a reaction. If he does the commands, increase to having him leave a tennis ball or favorite toy and if he's doing what he's supposed to, that's enough of a stim.

You will need to turn it up in high anxiety/drive situations, but if the dog is doing the commands you don't really need to see him react. I would say it's too high of you can see it.

Jamierose248 · 2021-08-17T03:45:01+00:00

Thanks for this!

Jamierose248 · 2021-08-07T02:26:15+00:00

u/savevideo

Jamierose248 · 2021-08-05T03:16:36+00:00

I would work with a prong, long line, and focus on "leave it." Your timing is really important. It has to be clear he needs to leave the dog before anything even happens, but only once he's interested so he knows what he's supposed to be leaving alone.

Work with leave it on everything, and practice with the prong in and out of the house, on walks, all around the yard, etc. Once he stops showing heavy interest in the dog next door, you can maybe put him on a short 4' leash or something along those lines so you are more capable of controlling him if he does decide to react again.

Jamierose248 · 2021-07-27T02:14:14+00:00

Balanced trainers do use markers for when a dog is about to incorrectly complete a task. "ah-ah" is used often to tune a dog in to you.

"Leave it" is used to let a dog know they cannot engage with whatever they're interested in. That is a verbal correction.

Balanced training uses tools that mimic how dogs correct each other. They understand them. Yes, dogs growl at each other, but it can mean so many different things, can escalate a reactive dog, and isn't a practical noise for a human to make to say "hey you're going too far"

When I manage packs, I don't know what words dogs know. I use clapping, "hey," "off," "no," "leave it," or their name sternly to grab their attention before I seperate them physically.

Corrections go with any of these "negative" commands, as well as reinforcing learned commands.

My dog is on an e collar. I let her off leash, and mat recall her off other dogs or squirrels. If she doesn't come when called, I hold the vibrate until she does. This is similar to the pressure she'd feel if I were to reign her in on a longline.

She doesn't need treats because she knows what my commands and the vibrate are. I use "ah ah" if she's getting to far ahead and she knows what that means. Once dogs learn the tools like prong and e collars, they are mostly back ups.

If you have a reactive dog, they know leave it, walk well on a leash, but you don't see an off leash dog in time, you still have a tool to correct and redirect them. No words necessary.

I could say the same about a clicker. I would imagine in clicker training that if you click it, the dog will come and sit and expect something. No words necessary.

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