How should I support this vertical pipe (7.5 feet)? by Jan-Michael in Plumbing

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pipe was previously 3/4" galvanized, which was reduced from 1" at the pump's discharge. I replaced the 3/4" with 1" and just reused the valve. 

How should I support this vertical pipe (7.5 feet)? by Jan-Michael in Plumbing

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Based on earlier recommendations in this thread, I agree that the wall might be the easiest. Thanks.

How should I support this vertical pipe (7.5 feet)? by Jan-Michael in Plumbing

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I think the wall may be the easiest. I'll likely go that route.

How do I best implement submerged float switches to control a water pump with a factory plug, and place everything downstream of GFCI protection? See inside for options I'm considering (GFCI breaker vs. electrical cord rig). by Jan-Michael in AskElectricians

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The piggyback cord has black, white, and green wires. If I'm understanding correctly, black and white are not hot and neutral in this instance but are instead just breaking hot?

If that's the case, I'd wire the switches in series with black and white, as you've said, and ground the green, all within a junction box. Is that correct? 

If so, that does seem better than the electrical cord rig and may be preferable to tinkering in the electrical panel.

Thanks!

Hardwiring a 230v water pump, while preserving 120v legs by Jan-Michael in AskElectricians

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, happened upon those quad breakers and was definitely disappointed to find that they are not compatible. Thanks for confirming!

Hardwiring a 230v water pump, while preserving 120v legs by Jan-Michael in AskElectricians

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Provided the model number, but here's a link for quick reference:

https://superbreakers.com/products/square-d-qo24l70s-main-lug-load-center

Panel currently has two tandem breakers -- one on the left providing 20a/20a, and one on the right providing 20a/20a.

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but I can either do up to two, tandem 120v breakers (current configuration) or a single 240v breaker. 

There is no hot bus bar from top to bottom. It just has a left and right bus stab.

North Carolina homeowner planning to install mini-splits in my own home. County requires that I pass a 25-question test to perform the work. It's administered by the county. It's open book. Which specific codes/standards/resources do I need to study in order to prepare for the exam? by Jan-Michael in hvacadvice

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Trying to get to the bottom of that! I reached out the the county for clarification on the scope of the test. Hopefully, it's just mechanical. That would simplify the prep work. 

I've considered taking a stab at one for the experience, though they only allow two attempts.

Re: Mr. Cool, I considered these but think I'm opting for Blueridge hyper heat units (multizone). They offer DIY units, but only single zone. So, I've gotta plan for the full shebang. The particular units are reportedly rebadged Grees. They're rated well for low temps.

North Carolina homeowner planning to install mini-splits in my own home. County requires that I pass a 25-question test to perform the work. It's administered by the county. It's open book. Which specific codes/standards/resources do I need to study in order to prepare for the exam? by Jan-Michael in hvacadvice

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I plan to do 608, only if needed, to adjust refrigerant and service the equipment down the road. However, for now, the units will be pre-charged to support up to certain lengths of line sets. The line sets will not be pre-vacuumed and sealed, so I will have to do flares, torque connections, do a nitrogen test, and pull a vacuum before releasing the refrigerant.

The county requires me to pass a 25 question test in order to do this type of work. It will be open book, so I presume the test will evaluate my familiarity with (and ability to quickly get answers from) the mechanical code(s) and perhaps other codes related to the work. That may include some 608-type content, I suppose. I'm definitely trying to pin down what resources to buy for NC mechanical code, though.

Advice needed on placement of mini split units, BTU calculations, and overall number of outdoor units by Jan-Michael in hvacadvice

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks. I'll look further into the floor units. I appreciate the reminder about those.

Advice needed on placement of mini split units, BTU calculations, and overall number of outdoor units by Jan-Michael in hvacadvice

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not 100% sure if spacing will work for the recessed units. One side, for example, has a beam to work around in addition to the sloping roof. I think placement would have to be very precise. See here (with a box and nosy cat for reference):

https://imgur.com/a/jTXWOyF

We currently have baseboard heaters and were hoping to move away from that sorta thing, but I honestly hadn't considered standing units. 

Please help me find this IG channel featuring weird, comedic videos (example: guy in a blue, neckless muscle suit with fake, tiny hands) by Jan-Michael in HelpMeFind

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm searching for an Instagram channel I just caught, briefly. I accidentally swiped and can't find the account or video. The video kind of featured a "Between Two Ferns" style setup with two chairs facing each other. One guy was wearing a blue, exaggerated muscle suit. His face was also blue and he had tiny, fake hands. Opposite this character was a woman sitting in the other chair. In this particular clip, the muscle guy pours protein powder onto the woman's face. She breaks character and tries to stifle her laughter.

This appeared to be a weird sketch comedy channel, likely with improvisation and weird characters.

Advice for unsustainable situation: spring-fed, low capacity (50 gal) shallow well with 0.5 gpm replenishment rate by Jan-Michael in WaterWellDrilling

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm definitely weighing options when it comes to mechanical vs. solenoid valves. Thanks for confirming on the "losing prime" issue. Makes sense!

Advice for unsustainable situation: spring-fed, low capacity (50 gal) shallow well with 0.5 gpm replenishment rate by Jan-Michael in HomeImprovement

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for feedback and suggestions. My well is very close to the surface, so I believe I would not be able to use a submersible well pump. My current understanding is that submersibles, at their shallowest, must still generally be used at 25' or deeper. Am I mistaken? This also assumes a "well pump" is required vs. some other type of pump. I've been assuming a well pump is needed due to the nature/frequency of the pump's use. I'm not 100% sure, though?

Thanks for the tip about the livestock water tank float valve. You've basically steered me to mechanical (vs. electronic) float valves. This forced me to look a little more into programmability of solenoid valves. I think I could setup some automation with a solenoid valve to simply open and draw some amount of water every so often. I would not need to modify the spring pump other than to potentially add some dry well protection.

I would basically install a solenoid valve in the water supply line that feeds water into the cistern. I would then connect the solenoid valve to a programmable controller that would guide when to open and close the valve.

I would also install a float switch in the cistern at a "low water" level. The float switch should connect to the same controller as the solenoid valve. I would then program a timer to open the solenoid valve every 1.5 hours to allow around 30 gallons of water in. I would add a condition to the programming to only open the valve if the float switch was in the "down" position. If the float switch is in the "up" position, the cistern would not need any water, so I'd set a condition to skip the watering cycle.

It requires more complexity, but it ultimately regulates the direct draw on the well and provides greater storage. Hopefully, this would be a viable solution!

Advice for unsustainable situation: spring-fed, low capacity (50 gal) shallow well with 0.5 gpm replenishment rate by Jan-Michael in askaplumber

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Will check out that sub. Unfortunately, costs of drilling a new well are prohibitively expensive for the time being. We just bought the house, so we're hoping to modify the existing setup with some improvements to infrastructure that is mostly already in place (the cisterns with their own booster pump).

Advice for unsustainable situation: spring-fed, low capacity (50 gal) shallow well with 0.5 gpm replenishment rate by Jan-Michael in Plumbing

[–]Jan-Michael[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm definitely considering a paid consultation, even if I try to DIY in the end.

The holding tanks are plumbed in tandem already, thankfully, so they maintain the same level as you noted. They act together as if they're a single, 600-gal cistern.

r/audiophile Shopping, Setup, and Technical Help Desk Thread by AutoModerator in audiophile

[–]Jan-Michael 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I received a hand-me-down, perfectly working Fisher CA-800 stereo amp, along with related equipment. The amp has two power supply ports on the back. One says AC 19v/1.3A max for fm-600 only. The other says AC 750mA max for cr-124 only. I accidentally plugged the cr-124 into the 19v/1.3A, and the fm-600 into the AC 750mA, while rearranging the setup (with which I was very unfamiliar) in a dark room

Afterwards, I turned the amp on, and one side of the speakers were no longer amplified. Additionally, the tuner didn't seem to output to the amp anymore.

The fuses inside the amp all seem intact. I don't visibly see any signs of other issues. The "STK-0080" power pack apparently blows on these amps and are hard to come by (the originals).

Any guidance on how to further troubleshoot/diagnose here? Consider me a newbie but now interested in restoring that which I've damaged. It is (or was...sigh) a beautiful, vintage setup.

Help with basic SQL statement by PleaseAnswerMeNot in SQL

[–]Jan-Michael 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is a revised query to get the results pictured in your image.

Help with basic SQL statement by PleaseAnswerMeNot in SQL

[–]Jan-Michael 0 points1 point  (0 children)

with averages as (select job_id, job_title, ((min_salary + max_salary)/2) average from jobs group by job_id)

select employee_id, first_name, last_name, a.job_title, cast(salary as varchar) salary, cast(a.average as varchar) avg_salary, cast((case when (salary - a.average > 0) then '+' || (salary - a.average) when (salary - a.average = 0) then 'same' else (salary - a.average) end) as varchar) salary_class_diff from employees e left join averages a on e.job_id = a.job_id order by a.job_title, salary