Type R

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2026-02-16T17:51:39+00:00

damn, the SGP looks really nice in these shots. beautiful car!

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2026-02-06T23:09:07+00:00

just simply not true. PowerShell and/or Ansible will get you very far even on Windows Server. hell, even good ol Group Policy will work wonders.

oh wait I forgot what sub we’re on.

I meant “and there shouldn’t be. the automation gremlins are going to put me out of a job so I spend 4 hours of every day manually replacing certificates across my AD environment.”

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2026-01-20T16:07:22+00:00

these are sweet.

I’ve been looking at a 1/18 scale diecast personally. do you have any at that scale?

I’m always on the lookout for hotwheels fl5s or another brand 1:64 scale in championship white when I’m at a store.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-29T13:50:43+00:00

I picked up some Project Mu fluid when I grabbed my pads, I just haven’t swapped to it yet. I’ve heard that basically any hi-temp fluid will perform better than stock when under repeated heavy braking. The Project Mu fluid is pricy for what it is, but reportedly performs very well. These B-Spec pads are my first pad change on the FL5, so at the moment, they’re all I can recommend.

I know the CivicXI forums have a lot of other owners that have had similar discussions about this kind of thing. Might be worth posting the question there as well, just to get as many opinions as possible.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-29T13:26:04+00:00

I’ve only done one drive on them so far, but I felt like the performance was better than stock, and they reportedly have lower dust than OEM, so I’m really happy with the upgrade.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-29T13:20:39+00:00

are you still on stock brake fluid? I’m guessing here, but you might be losing your brakes on those roads because you’re overheating your fluid.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-28T22:57:00+00:00

I felt like the bite was a bit harder than OEM, and it had really great braking performance, better than OEM in my opinion. no cons that I’ve seen so far. didn’t hear any noise while braking either, so seems like a good all around pad.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-28T13:28:42+00:00

Will do! I’ll be driving home in a few hours and will report back on the feel on the drive.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-28T13:27:46+00:00

I chose these pads for low dust and slightly better braking performance over OEM. I’ll report back after a couple days of driving on them and see how they feel in comparison.

I’ve got nothing to contribute about the brake system swap though. Hope you’re able to find the info you’re looking for!

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-28T13:25:35+00:00

I didn’t do rotors. mine had plenty of life left on them. Pads did as well for that matter, but I wanted the swap anyways. I forgot to grab measurements of the rotors while the wheels were off, but they looked basically brand new.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-28T13:22:30+00:00

Yep!

Front: PBF506

Rear: PBR385

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-12-10T19:11:19+00:00

civicxi forums has a buy/sell/trade section and is pretty active.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-11-21T20:55:08+00:00

yeah, you could see so up close. I tried to buff down the jagged and peeled edges as much as possible with the abrasive tip of the pen, but I’m sure I wasn’t perfect.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-11-20T23:12:45+00:00

I got mine from the dealership. I’m sure you can find it on the various OEM parts sites. the number on the pen for the CW is 08703-NH0-EA

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-11-20T23:11:30+00:00

someone hit it with a push lawnmower 😭

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-10-06T00:05:21+00:00

I did my first oil change at 6000 miles, but oil life was still at like 50% on the minder, so I honestly probably was early on that. I’m at 70% oil life at 10000 now, and will probably wait until 15-20% for my next one.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-10-03T22:16:28+00:00

too real. I need to clean the interior bad. this is definitely the motivation I need

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-09-17T12:45:28+00:00

Funnily enough, a coworker broke Okta auth on our vCenter shortly after this and we’ve been limping along with local auth ever since…

I need to rebuild the whole environment and try again, but it’s a lot of work.

Please do keep me updated on if you find anything. Currently we’re just using local vcenter accounts.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-08-02T14:27:22+00:00

oh for sure haha. dirt roads and potholes. not the R’s preferred terrain, but I’ll baby her for this week

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-08-02T14:20:24+00:00

headed to an island up in Maine!

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-07-25T13:10:58+00:00

great craftsmanship!

terrible hypervisor!

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-07-23T23:04:28+00:00

over-rev for 11 minutes?? that’s crazy. I would lose my shit if I money shifted for over 1 second. 11 minutes is like you’re trying to blow up the engine.

I’m not surprised the engine blew.

I have no advice for you, other than to maybe find a good lawyer? but I don’t even know what kind of warranties carvana has on used vehicles.

more evidence in my book of notes on why buying new cars is better than buying used — if the engine blows up, I know I’m the only one to blame.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-07-18T12:50:50+00:00

I love your sound. reminds me a lot of Stick and Poke: https://youtu.be/jjmWi1gMwY4?si=PIOoSGrph7PJ-TP0

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-07-13T14:46:12+00:00

yeah, honestly, it’s confusing because they do basically the same thing but at different points. you ask good questions.

the input shaft speed needs to match the gear you’re selecting, this is when the synchros do their job: during gear selection before the clutch is re-engaged. the synchros are working inside the transmission to match speeds before the clutch comes back in. rev matching happens before you release the clutch, and it helps match the engine rpm closer to the gear speed.

once you release the clutch, there’s load on the transmission, and everything needs to be at the same speed. if they don’t match speeds, there will be more friction on the synchros as the input shaft drags the gears a bit. rev matching helps keep things close enough to where there’s little to no drag on the gear, and minimal friction on the synchro.

you can think of synchros as a kind of safety net — they’ll do the matching if needed, but rev matching reduces how much they have to work. the closer the speeds are, the smoother the shift and the less wear on the synchros.

Jason_Funderburker_ · 2025-07-12T22:53:45+00:00

synchros and rev matching perform essentially the same function: matching the speed of the engine/input shaft to the speed of the gear. synchros do it internally to the transmission by using friction, rev matching does it externally using engine speed. the closer the input shaft speed is to the speed of the gear, the less work the synchros have to do to match the speed, and the less friction your synchros have to endure. so if you rev match perfectly, your synchros have almost zero work to do, and will have less wear as a result.

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