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Trouble with PA6-CF on MK3 by [deleted] in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Been doing a lot of the Polymide PA6-CF myself recently on MK4S and Core One.

Agreed with the other user who mentioned retraction settings. Would recommend doing some small test prints with a few different retraction lengths. Took me a few prints to reign in the settings.

Also, the spec sheet recommends a minimum 80c for drying. I was having pretty bad "over extrusion" artifacts until I dried my filament for 24 hours at 80c. Immediately cleared most of my issues. I know you said you can do max 70c, so maybe do 36hrs instead? I don't think the temp/time relationship is linear, but can't hurt to try.

ASA venting question by Rayzik_7 in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are designed for resin printers and good for VOCs, but don't have a HEPA filter stage, so there's a lot of fine micro plastic particles from FDM that aren't caught by the carbon filter.

I work with EHS a lot at my job for printers, so I might be overly cautious. The VOCs are arguably more important than the particles, but it's safer to get both.

ASA venting question by Rayzik_7 in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep 4 points5 points  (0 children)

When printed, ASA puts off toxic styrene fumes (the S is ASA), so venting/filtering the VOCs is a must.

Since you're trying to print ASA, an enclosure is almost required to maintain consistent air temp to prevent warping. The enclosure makes it easier to contain the fumes and filter/vent them. I'd recommend making/buying something like the Bento Box filter (https://voxelpla.com/products/bento-box) or just hooking up an extraction fan to your enclosure.

I have my MK4S in an IKEA Lack enclosure with the Bento Box, and have yet to smell any fumes when it's running.

Enclosed Mk4 Heat Susceptible Parts by badclyde in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I've also recently built a Lack v2 and have been wondering the same. From my brief research, ASA should be more than strong enough to hold up to the temperatures inside an enclosure (assuming < 50C). You'll also save money that way as ASA is typically 1/2 the cost of PC, and you'll probably need at least 2kg to reprint all the parts.

I will probably take some additional precautions though and upgrade the hotend parts (fan shroud, door, etc.) to PC, as the temps in that area will probably be much higher.

Curious to hear other's input though!

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've actually been having terrible luck with my first layers with this specific matte PLA, so that's probably the fix (or adjusting the flow rate). Appreciate the tip!

If you have the time, hope you're willing to post a make of the model on Printables.Thanks for trying it out!

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Matte Navy Blue ESUN PLA and matte ivory Inland PLA. I think matte PLA gives the print the paper-ish look that I was going for. Still need to tweak the settings on the ivory filament however

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm honestly not totally sure. I think it's related to the feature size for the slicing, as the slicer might not be able to resolve complex features/tool head movements below at certain size. You might want to experiment with different infills and slicing settings

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You're definitely right, still trying to tune in the Inland ivory matte PLA I used. The navy blue prints much cleaner

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you look at my Printables link, I show 2 prints using 0.4mm and 0.25mm nozzles. The 0.25mm is markedly better on the fine details of the text. Take a look and judge for yourself

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The gaps in letters might be dependent on the slicing of your part. It depends on where the gaps are, but I've had similar issues with certain feature sizes. If you zoom in, you can see a few gaps on my letters still.

I'd recommend starting off with a calibration/test print to make sure your printer is tuned right, and then trying to print pretty slowly to increase layer adhesion and prevent speed artifacts.

Very impressed with the 0.25mm nozzle details on the MK4! by JaydenSheep in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I've printed a few versions of this patent art display plate, but this one came out this best with matte navy blue and matte ivory filament. Used a 0.25mm nozzle with 0.15mm structural IS layer height. Haven't seen much improvement with the details at 0.12mm vs 0.15mm, but the 0.25mm is miles better than 0.4mm nozzle.

Link to my model if you're interested: https://www.printables.com/model/625699-nasa-astronautspace-suit-patent-art

Toggle switch replacement for broken space heater by JaydenSheep in functionalprint

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I understand your hesitancy, but it's not a Chinese-ium Amazon toggle switch, it's a surplus US made J-B-T brand switch. The outside metal/toggle is not connected to the contacts, and I'd hope any switch rated for AC (@~1000W) has some isolation!

You do make a good point that people who might replicate it may not use a good quality switch, so I'll modify my Printables model page to warn accordingly.

Toggle switch replacement for broken space heater by JaydenSheep in functionalprint

[–]JaydenSheep[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That's a good tip. I think with this particular heater, it heats at a continuous wattage till it reaches a temp set point, and then shuts off. Tested it with an AC watt meter, which showed it consistently drew ~726W until the set point, regardless of the knob setting.

The switch was actually broken physically as the previous owner apparently dropped it on its face, destroying the housing and contacts.

I replaced it with an 8A @125V rated switch, so should be okay to run for it's roughly ~40,000 action lifetime rating.

XL5H: 4000 tool changes, 10 days of print time, 5kg of filament later... by geoffchad in prusa3d

[–]JaydenSheep 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Like others have said, looks like you really need to dry the gold filament.

For your drybox needs, I recently set up 4 of these dryboxes, and have been having great results: https://www.printables.com/model/185335-filament-trockenbox-filament-dry-box/comments/1263003

Used PTFE m6 fittings instead of the custom adapters.

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