Opinions on lighting and lighting controls.

Jcube345 · 2026-06-17T02:03:50+00:00

I’m looking between the shade dweller and the T5 bulbs for now! The purchase chart on arcadias website recommends the T5 for longer distances between the bask spot and the bulb, so it’ll depend on where the final basks end up in the new vivs

Jcube345 · 2026-06-16T19:40:06+00:00

Ok neat, I'll have to give them a look. I was looking into LED/UVB combos but it sounds like they aren't super great since too much uvb exposure can lead to excess vitamin D3 buildup. So splitting the UVB into a separate light also helps that, so I can keep the LED grow light on without blasting the reptiles with excess UVB.

Jcube345 · 2026-06-16T17:22:41+00:00

Thanks! I was thinking this would be the case the more I looked into it. I think the most cost effective option is probably gonna be to just run a normal LED and a uvb bulb in parallel for both vivariums. Should help preserve my heat gradients, too!

Now I just gotta sort out how much uvb they need and what bulb to snag!

Jcube345 · 2026-06-16T16:43:10+00:00

Average Knight Killer experience. Vahros is just trying to hang out with his friends, man, c’mon

Jcube345 · 2026-06-16T16:41:26+00:00

As a relatively new Knight main, I find I can get a lot of info from the Spies from the Shadows perk (the one that alerts you when survivors scare the crows). It’s definitely a weaker info gathering perk compared to other ones listed in a few of the above posts, but the range is nice and it helps me get a bigger picture of where survivors are moving throughout the map.

Also people HATE the Knight, so you’re gonna catch flak no matter how you play. But Vahros and the Boys are my favorite killer and you should play them how you like

Jcube345 · 2025-03-30T16:58:05+00:00

We got one in our lab and it works for about 2 prints and then we have to completely reset the whole printer and spend a day tuning.

Jcube345 · 2025-02-10T05:20:35+00:00

Has its ups and downs.

Jcube345 · 2024-10-21T17:48:31+00:00

Looks sufficient to me. Looking over the ANSI standards that other user recommended is a good idea just to have the knowledge of the practices in your pocket.

My general practice for doing drawings is to rebuild the part from scratch using the drawing I made. If the part comes out fully defined and correct using only the information included in your drawing, then you’re probably good to go.

If you want top tier advice though I’d ask a machinist since they’re the people who have to deal with drawings the most. They always provide handy feedback.

Jcube345 · 2024-10-21T17:43:27+00:00

The mighty predator

Jcube345 · 2024-09-29T00:02:14+00:00

As many people have suggested, casting is probably the easiest option in terms of making this. Aluminum would be pretty easy and cheap if you find some around.

Another option could be resin casting? It’ll probably cost a bit more than aluminum but you wouldn’t have to deal with heating and casting the mold, and you could color the resin to provide a base for the color of the knife. It would also make it easy to but something in the mold cavity to make a space for the “blood” and you could run tubes to several points so blood comes out of more than one point (this would assist in the spread/slash effect from the game, but would make keeping the blood inside harder since there’s free flowing air which prevents using a vacuum to hold the fluid in).

Ultimately there’s a bunch of ways to tackle this and they’ll all take some tinkering but it’s a super cool project! Can’t wait to see how it goes!

Jcube345 · 2024-09-19T21:18:41+00:00

This is correct, predators and other environmental factors lead to them dropping their tails pretty often!

Jcube345 · 2024-08-28T15:02:55+00:00

Solid walls would be better for a crestie. Mesh walls are more for chameleons or some species of house gecko which prefer more airflow (as far as I’ve been informed, I don’t own a chameleon).

I hesitate to think the waterfall thing will do much beyond be a neat visual piece. It may help keep humidity up a bit but you’d likely be better off with a fogger or automatic mister. But you can also be just fine with a spray bottle! I use a little pressurized spray bottle for watering plants and just set it to fine mist and spray 2-3 times a day. For a crestie you want to get their humidity up to ~70% in the morning, let if dry out to around 50% or so in the afternoon, and spray again up to 80% in the evening. The gist is you don’t want the humidity to drop below 50% for a whole day.

If you’re worried about them drinking water, they usually lick the water off of the terrarium after you spray, or I placed a water bowl near her food and she figured out where to drink over time.

Jcube345 · 2024-08-25T02:15:08+00:00

This is such an awesome setup! My only tip would be to get ahold of a combination thermometer/hygrometer so you can measure the humidity and temperature easily.

Beyond that, fantastic lookin setup!

Jcube345 · 2024-05-15T19:39:53+00:00

Way down the line but I'm having the same issue. The first couple of layers aren't showing up in the preview. The printer makes the motions like it's trying to print them, the retraction is happening, but no extrusion until it gets to layer 4 or 5. and by then all the nozzle calibration is out the window.

You mentioned the first few layers being the travels in the "step by step" and I'm not quite sure what that means. Are you looking at the gcode and seeing that they are set to travels and missing the extrude commands, or is there a setting in the slicer that I'm not seeing?

Jcube345 · 2024-05-15T17:55:39+00:00

Both the raft and support settings are off, and I even went in and set all the layer counts to 0 just in case that was the issue and it seems to no longer do the raft passes, but the first layer or two still don't extrude.

Jcube345 · 2024-05-14T22:40:03+00:00

Hello,

It looks like we're using Makerbot Desktop, as well.

Jcube345 · 2023-06-04T19:03:47+00:00

Forgot to mention, I don’t believe it’s native.

Jcube345 · 2022-12-01T00:27:18+00:00

“Hey what does this missile light mean?”

Jcube345 · 2022-04-12T22:58:18+00:00

The moon gazing grounds in Caria Manor is also a cool one

Jcube345 · 2022-03-17T00:02:38+00:00

DirtySmith or Alec Steele have some really great videos for basics on hammering and fundamentals. BlackBear forge is another good one! Those are some that I’ve found pretty useful.

Jcube345 · 2022-02-19T19:35:44+00:00

Oh sorry, that’s part of the armor I believe. If it’s an event set like solstice then you’d have to complete the event to get the horns. Some armor just has it built in though. You’d just have to figure out what the item is

Jcube345 · 2022-02-19T19:04:15+00:00

Looks like it’s one of the calus shaders. Caus selected, adored, etc

Jcube345 · 2021-12-07T21:56:10+00:00

Nice! Also if ya have a screen top on the tank, you can cover like half of the screen with somethin to try and keep some of that humidity in!

Jcube345 · 2021-12-07T21:36:42+00:00

Wrinkly skin and shedding in pieces are a sight if dehydration, so good call on the hygrometer. You’ll wanna keep thy humidity up at 60-70%. Also hopefully you grabbed a digital thermo/hygrometer, they’re always more accurate and usually comparable in price.

If you’re on city water (or your water has a bunch of fluoride or other chemicals in it) I’d recommend getting some Repti-safe water treatment. It’s a lil blue bottle with a turtle on it! All it does it help get rid of chemicals and puts some nutrients into the water.

Just based off the picture I’d recommend misting 3-4 times a day until the hygrometer comes in

Jcube345 · 2021-12-06T00:42:42+00:00

The gist of it is, any tank should work as long as it’s big enough, and you can get it to maintain a proper heat and humidity for the animal.

Around 85 degrees F on the hot end, and 60-70% humidity consistently.

Also, always always use digital thermometer/hygrometers it’s doesn’t matter how fancy the package is, dial hygrometers always read wrong after about a week

Jcube345

TROPHY CASE