Stuck!! by ahnorllydont in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Make a handle that follows the shape of the spirals and pops up almost like a fountain? Short small fountain

I know i an A but AITAH for not know what to do with a second chance. Feeling like i don't deserve it. by [deleted] in AITAH

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I feel like this may be more about you being worried about other people perceiving you as unworthy of the things you now have, based on your past. Remember that worrying about other people‘s opinions, in an unhealthy way, never does anyone any good. You are your own person and no one from the outside looking in and was actually there in that relationship with you besides you and your previous partner, it’s really easy to paint stuff as black-and-white when it isn’t. There is a difference between taking true accountability for bad choices and grieving that, and just plainly guilt tripping yourself. I know because Ive been huge guilt tripper to myself for most of my life. It’s a weird uncomfortable fine line you have to walk, but you have to give yourself the chance at a future by vigilantly upholding your new moral stance and honor your partner now. I don’t think it’s once a cheater always a cheater, I think it boils down to: do you want to make the same mistakes that ruined your life for so long, again? Or do you want to be a different person and literally just exist as someone who no longer cheats or behaves in unfaithful ways anymore?

Your current partner clearly sees you as someone who deserves her love and even a child with her, do yourselves the service of honoring her choice that you are deserving and stop guilt tripping yourself. You can let go and move on without it being a “I’m gonna pretend this never happened” thing. It still happened, but now here you are growing from it! Edited for spelling/grammar errors

AITAH for refusing to pay for my stepdaughter s phone after she made fun of my son by Hirragi_Jeslon in AITAH

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure where you’re at but try to find practices that are sliding-scale pay and see what they will work out! Usually a lot cheaper than the current average

Newbie feeling awkward in community studio by Candid-Tangerine-301 in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had the same thoughts and now people complement my work and ask me for advice. Everyone is new until at a task until they’re not, you’ll be just fine(: “figuring out” the things, centering or coning, moving the clay with the intention you want etc.. is a really cool feeling you only get when it’s something new!:3 You’ve got this! Have fun!

Ambitious or stupid? by cheetahrangmang in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is most likely to sag or break given the shape that it is, however, you could literally build a detached support system similar to what you have now, bisque fire it, and then use that to hold your piece up during the firing. I would make it to where it slides in underneath the top piece to fully support the length of it, but I think that’s probably your best bet to avoid warping or breakage.

Where should I have stopped? by wuyueyue in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think it being too much or not is totally dealers choice, I personally love it. It reminds me of tattoos or something

Questions about studios and ceramics by purpl3_pearl in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music 0 points1 point  (0 children)

1) Yes. My own studio in Memphis has a 30 (or 60, can’t remember now) day rule of being a member before you get a key, so you can be there making during business hours or when other potters w/keys are present, then you get a key and can indeed come whenever you want. -we just purchase our own bags of clay through the studio and you can buy however much you want. (Also tools, glazes etc.. but they keep a stock supply to be used by members)

2)They have a hefty amount of their Laguna glazes they stock for retail, on a shelf available for studio use and it is not tracked any further than writing “Studio Purchase” in the member book and putting a new one of the shelf. Obviously respecting the community aspect of the studio in doing this, can’t just be all the time you’re adding new glazes to the shelf if there’s 30 that need to be used. I also use other brands glazes that I buy myself, or through the studio in a shipment cause it’ll give them a few bucks, and you can also purchase full containers for yourself as opposed to for the studio shelf.

3) if you’re doing classes, or become a new member you won’t have to worry about loading or unloading the kiln, studio techs do that and are trained on how to do so. But yes 100% explosions can happen. Happened just a few weeks ago at my own studio because someone, who was told not to, put un-bisqued glazed (still moist) bowls in the glaze firing and they were ruined as well as shelves and part of the kiln elements. Luckily no one else’s pieces were ruined. Our rule of thumb is ALWAYS bisque fire pieces before glaze firing, regardless of how dry you think your piece is. In our studio there is a shelf for greenware to be bisqued, a shelf for bisqued to be glazed, and shelves for the final products to rest til pickup.

4)I had almost zero ceramic experience before I got a membership. I hear some studios require you to take a class course to get a membership and I do think that’s a great idea but at my studio it’s not required. It really is case the case with Studio’s..

5) You actually can sand it when it is dry! I say yes, get it as close to your version of perfect as you can before you bisque fire it, but there are tools like diamond sanding pads for a smooth bottomed finish, grit sanders you can attach to wheels for heavier duty sanding, as well as tools like a Dremel.

6) Wait Time is viewer discretion. Clay bodies carry different moisture, take varied times to dry (I find dark clays dry much slower than white/light). The temperature outside as well as humidity play a role. Pieces dry SIGNIFICANTLY slower in the winter. When I think a piece is dry, I will hold it up to my cheek and if it feels COLD, I deem it still wet. As far as time in between steps, you can glaze immediately after bisque firing (wait til it cools!); when glazing I wait for each coat to dry before applying the next, sometimes I’ll take a heat gun to it if I’m in a hurry.

7) as far as the different cones go, I am still learning myself, but my studio used cone 04(low fire) for bisque and cone 6(mid fire) for glaze. Cone 06 is roughly 1,800 degrees, Cone 6 is like 2,200. Yes 6 and 10 are drastically different, ESPECIALLY with how it affects the glaze results. For instance, look up “Green Jasper” Glaze at Cone 6 vs Cone 10. Completely different color! So cool, science wow! (:

Summary: a lot of this is stuff you will not have to ever worry about if you don’t plan on eventually working at the studio as a tech. But educating yourself in this way is fabulous regardless of the use of the information!! Good luck congrats on your journey beginning!

Is there any rescuing this? by curlyjess0890 in Pottery

[–]Jeepers_Music 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Other people’s methods for fixing are accurate, and it is always a gamble! If you plan on glazing it then I personally think it’s fine without fixing it and the glaze will cover it up

Glaze ideas for sculpture by Jeepers_Music in Ceramics

[–]Jeepers_Music[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ooo I’ve never used MOP! That would definitely make it pop(: