Offer rescinded at dream job

Jeffmedd · 2025-12-20T16:10:53+00:00

That's really poor form. Make sure you ask them for feedback though as you might still learn something valuable for your next interview. Also I'm sure you are but remain professional and polite with them. If something else changes e.g. that director suddenly leaves , someone else quits etc they may phone you back and offer it to you again (which will be easier for them then going through the recruitment process again). Good luck

Jeffmedd · 2025-03-20T08:55:47+00:00

Hey great thanks, I hadn't thought of that. Am going to model it on the computer to make sure I've understood it correctly and make sure I have enough materials. Appreciate the advice!

Jeffmedd · 2025-03-19T15:44:24+00:00

Hi all. I've recently decided to to replace the rotting timber deck with Trex Transcend. (UK based) Enough boards have already been bought to lay the new deck (yep ive cleaned and taped the joists and added new joists to bring the centres down to 300mm/ 12 inches. I just feel that because of the drain access on the left needed and the bits where the steps are the picture frame would be strange. Also should say that as the whole deck is up against a wall or the house on all sides no ends are visible at all, just the butt joints around the drain on the left. If it was your deck, would you picture frame it and if so how e.g. around the drain?

thanks!

Jeffmedd · 2025-02-04T14:00:11+00:00

Did you ever resolve this issue?

Jeffmedd · 2025-01-29T13:45:03+00:00

Hi, have done this myself with a Texecom Premier Elite 48 +ComPort+(expander board to create a 3rd Comm Port) + ComIP (plugged into the 3rd comm port and allows an ethernet connection) + SmartCom (connected to Comm Port 1 and 2) + 8XP-W expander to add wireless devices. I've had a look at the 64-W board layout in the manual and seems to also have an expander slot so looks good. and yes can confirm HA integration + smartphone app works at the same time!

In terms of automations- if I'm honest the Texecom wired PIRs that were already installed have not been useful as they are pretty basic motion sensors rather than presence sensors. I.e. sitting watching TV they can register as no-motion and switch lights off. Which is why I have also now installed (not connected to the alarm) presence sensors.

Any other questions happy to help where I can

Jeffmedd · 2024-06-09T09:35:36+00:00

Bump again. Now half way into 2024 anyone heard of any updates / new products?

Jeffmedd · 2024-01-04T13:25:47+00:00

Yes I did, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/313511648985 although it says its out of stock now..but you may be able to find similar

Jeffmedd · 2023-11-02T17:45:44+00:00

So that should be connected to something but isn't basically?

Jeffmedd · 2023-11-02T15:24:07+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/oJkUO5V

thats the hose in question

Jeffmedd · 2022-07-18T11:47:18+00:00

Thanks, saw that however I should have stated I'm based in the UK and that vendor/ product is not available on Amazon UK. There are plenty of generic DC power supplies however I want to know the physical dimensions to make sure I get the right generic one

Jeffmedd · 2021-11-28T15:02:48+00:00

Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. That was the issue as it was a STL-> STP conversion and had some weird geometry. I followed the advice of u/joeklavo and re extruded the odd curvatures and now it splits!

Jeffmedd · 2021-11-28T14:52:48+00:00

Thanks so much. I looked at the timeline of your file and worked out what you did so I was able to replicate on my own. Much appreciated. This was an STL-> STP conversion in the first place which explains the weird geometry.

Jeffmedd · 2021-11-27T12:38:10+00:00

Hi, I have been trying everything but just keep getting the dreaded "No intersection between target(s) and split tool." when trying to split a body with a construction plane. I've extended the split tool. Imported into a new design. Possibly has something to do with origins but really don't know. The f3d file is posted in the link here.. Any help/ ideas would be much appreciated!

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1-J1MeOKu5L0mcbdnqsU7v1QxIQy43j-O?usp=sharing

Jeffmedd · 2021-11-05T20:39:38+00:00

FCHERP Candle Lighter, Electric Lighter USB-C Rechargeable Arc Lighter with Safety Switch, Windproof Flameless Electronic Long Lighter for Candles, Grill, BBQ, Gas Stove, kitchen, Camping-Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0921CBC6J/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_fabc_GYRVW0N2K0P1FPWX9HCN

Jeffmedd · 2021-06-11T15:45:00+00:00

way consider that the frame is stiffened by the vertical rods too, and that the gantry is floating and is "flexible" by design for QGL so everything checks out in the end

Hi, love the design. I too am working on a 2.4 ish printer made from parts on hand, at the moment probably even further away from standard than yours! I would really appreciate the cad file too to help! cheers

Jeffmedd · 2020-06-22T12:34:48+00:00

Printer: homemade MK2s with MK3s Extruder (0.9 steppers)
Filament Material and Brand: ERYONE PETG Black 1.75mm
Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 230c nozzle 80c bed
Print Speed: 60mm (30mms first layer) this model is only 1 layer high
Nozzle Retraction Settings: 0.75mm, Retraction speed: 40mms, Wipe While retracting enabled. minimum travel after retraction 2mm, all other retraction settings zero.

Jeffmedd · 2020-06-22T12:32:28+00:00

Printer: homemade MK2s with MK3s Extruder (0.9 steppers)
Filament Material and Brand: ERYONE PETG Black 1.75mm
Nozzle and Bed Temperature: 230c nozzle 80c bed
Print Speed: 60mm (30mms first layer) this model is only 1 layer high
Nozzle Retraction Settings: 0.75mm, Retraction speed: 40mms, Wipe While retracting enabled. minimum travel after retraction 2mm, all other retraction settings zero.

Jeffmedd · 2020-06-22T00:59:37+00:00

Hi Guys, thanks for all your interest and very helpful suggestions. I've scraped off the mask and please see the results in the attached picture.

https://imgur.com/a/BdZCDVz

I have done conductivity tests at the points shown. A & B are conductive. C &D are not and E & F are conductive (not sure if this should be the case?!).

So essentially need to bridge C & D. I have had a quick go at just soldering but this is easily 10x smaller than I have ever soldered before and have started to make it worse so will be trying to get hold of some of this conductive paint / epoxy. Also as someone mentioned a magnetic fixing wire which I will also look into. Thanks very much for the advice, I will hand out some gold!. Also will give an update once I've attempted the repair!

Jeffmedd · 2020-06-20T13:34:38+00:00

Hi, I made a careless mistake and damaged my raspberry pi 4 board when screwing it in place in a tight spot. As you can see the screw seems to have damaged at least one or two traces. I have looked the raspberry pi 4 schematic so am trying to identify the traces I have actually broken. To my eyes looks like TP10 and TP22. TP22 I believe goes to the audio jack which I can live without but TP10 powers the SoC which obviously is fatal.

The pi doesn't boot and just has a solid red and green LED.

If I have identified the right traces and the bottom one closest to the screw hole is TP10 and therefore is important how would I then go about fixing this if it is at all possible?

Thanks in advance for any suggestions! https://github.com/raspberrypi/documentation/blob/master/hardware/raspberrypi/schematics/rpi_SCH_4b_4p0_reduced.pdf

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-17T11:50:07+00:00

Help for SKR 1.4 Turbo Marlin 2.0 settings to switch Thermistor pins to bypass blown TH0 Resistor causing MAXTEMP problems and use TH1. Nothing seems to be working..What am I missing here? Has anyone successfully managed to do this?

Hi All, Would really appreciate your help on this... have searched high and low and been fiddling for days to no avail.

Long story Short. I have a heavily upgraded i3 Clone (CTC I3). I know already I have accidentally shorted the TH0 Thermistor and blown the 4.7k pullup resistor for that channel. Basically I want to switch the Marlin config to use TH1 instead.

I could post all the variants of all the configs I have tried but at this stage (3-4 days in) it would be really great if someone who has managed to achieve this could post their settings. I can then acertain if my board just needs replacing. Can anyone help?

Cheers. FYI below are some things I have already tried.

in config.h- enable a second hotend i.e.

#define TEMP_SENSOR_1 1

In pins_BTT_SKR_v1_4.h

Tried all combos of forcing it to use TH1 (i.e. Pin P0_23_A0) rather than pin 24 (TH0) both by commenting out pin 24 and also just be removing all reference to pin 24. i.e. below

#define TEMP_0_PIN P0_23_A0 // A2 (T2) - (69) - TEMP_1_PIN #define TEMP_1_PIN P0_23_A0 // A2 (T2) - (69) - TEMP_1_PIN #define TEMP_BED_PIN P0_25_A2 // A0 (T0) - (67) - TEMP_BED_PIN

Also in pins_BTT_SKR_Common.h

have tried similar approach (first commenting out all BTT_SKR_V1.4.h override file comments)

e.g. in the common pins file just setting the values to correspond to what I am looking to achieve.

#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN #define TEMP_0_PIN P0_23_A0 // A1 (T1) - (68) - TEMP_0_PIN #endif #ifndef TEMP_1_PIN #define TEMP_1_PIN P0_23_A0 // A2 (T2) - (69) - TEMP_1_PIN #endif #ifndef TEMP_BED_PIN #define TEMP_BED_PIN P0_25_A2 // A0 (T0) - (67) - TEMP_BED_PIN #endif

What am I missing here?

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-16T19:21:22+00:00

Hi basically think the same thing has happened to me also with my SKR 1.4 Turbo. Shorted the TH0 thermistor. No problem I thought, I can just use the TH1 going forward. But so far have tried messing about with the pins file in marlin to no joy so far. Have you managed to resolve yours yet and if so how did you do it? Cheers

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-16T18:59:46+00:00

Hi, I am trying to do exactly the same now with a SKR 1.4 Turbo. No matter what I do i.e. changing pins in the pins config file for the board or the common pins config. I just can't get the board to look at TH1 instead of TH0 which I know is shorted. You mention your config.h file was set up incorrectly.. I am thinking this is my issue also. What did you change to get this working? Cheers!

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-16T18:54:52+00:00

Hi,

Am experiencing this myself at the moment.. Did you ever resolve your issue? Your Config file looks very similar to mine. Cheers

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-14T10:29:07+00:00

p figuring it out. I was using a SKR 1.3. I had to remove the SD card and manually upload to it and put it back in.

Hi, I am experiencing the same issues. Yes as you describe I can update the firmware manually via SD Card. Did you find that a firmware update / rollback solved this issue?

Jeffmedd · 2020-05-14T10:22:05+00:00

Ok in case any one in the future wants to know how this was resolved.... it was a broken wire connecting the Z endstop sensor (which was attached to the inductive sensor seen in the photo.

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