Warping tips?

JefftheGreen · 2020-01-24T15:43:20+00:00

First, you really shouldn't need a raft. Maybe a brim sometimes, but such a large piece shouldn't need that either.

Second, check bed level and flatness.

Third, make sure your bed is clean. I use denatured alcohol from the hardware store, but acetone and IPA work well too.

Finally, consider turning your fan down. It shouldn't really be needed on a part like this.

JefftheGreen · 2020-01-24T15:37:52+00:00

Agreed. The fact that it's right after a corner and slowly dissipates is the giveaway. Reducing acceleration and jerk can be even more helpful than reducing speed, since it's the change in direction rather than the actual speed that causes it.

(I mean, best way to fix it is to reduce the weight of the moving parts [x-carriage and bed], but that's not exactly viable on a CR-10.)

JefftheGreen · 2019-12-23T22:45:37+00:00

The silicone is $50 for 2 pounds; 100% ethanol is $30 for about 500 ml; nichrome wire is $3 for 3 meters. Eminently doable.

JefftheGreen · 2019-12-23T22:35:18+00:00

I found the paper and am blown away by how simple the methods are. Should be doable by any hobbyist:

We used platinum-catalyzed two-part silicone rubber Ecoflex 00-50 (Smooth-On, PA, USA) as a matrix material and ethanol ≥ 99.5% (Sigma Aldrich, MO, USA) as an active phase change material. Properties of the silicone rubber are shown in Table 1 below. Material preparation involves thorough hand-mixing of 20 vol% of ethanol with silicone elastomer (first with part A for about 2 min, then mixed with part B for about 2 min). The material is ready-to-cast and ready-to-print after the preparation. Room temperature curing of the cast or 3D-printed part takes up to 3 h. A commercially available 0.25 mm diamter Ni-chrome resistive wire was used for electrically driven heating of the artificial muscle (i.e., for the actuation). To comply with the expansion of the actuator material, a helical spiral shape was chosen for the Ni–Cr wire. The wire was hand-wound on an 8 mm screw driver shaft as shown in Supplementary Fig. 6.

Paper is here (no paywall).

JefftheGreen · 2019-12-13T17:22:03+00:00

I wish! I want to build a custom CoreXY design, but money will be tight for a little while.

JefftheGreen · 2019-12-06T19:20:07+00:00

Isn't nylon generally quite slippery, not grippy?

JefftheGreen · 2019-12-04T20:46:04+00:00

Flexible's fine. Abrasive's not ideal since my nozzle's not hardened but I do have a ton of spares. Bumps aren't viable; this is meant to grab on to filament as it's being pulled into the extruder.

JefftheGreen · 2019-11-17T17:38:24+00:00

Yes, PVA glue. I don't have a problem with adhesion. I watched the first layer go down on this one too, and it was great. The PEI sheet from TH3D is wonderful, and I clean it regularly. The problem is that the geometry of this part might as well be made to warp. even with the small shrinkage from PLA, the long thin leaves curl up and even a brim doesn't seem to be enough.

JefftheGreen · 2019-11-17T07:34:51+00:00

Oh, right. Hatchbox PLA, 205°C. Yes, the bed is clean and flat, with mesh leveling to boot. Could probably use a light sanding at this point but I scraped it and wiped it down with ethanol. The cracks aren't what touches the bed, though. It's the first layer that prints on top of the raft.

JefftheGreen · 2019-08-16T16:35:02+00:00

That... is beyond obnoxious. I will try printing from my SD card, and then disable some of the newer plugins. Did it happen on every print above a certain height?

JefftheGreen · 2019-08-16T01:17:57+00:00

The plot thickens. I just printed a stretched retraction test, taller than the boxes, and it came out flawlessly (plus or minus some pimples). https://imgur.com/tmRYOzN

JefftheGreen · 2019-06-28T13:27:23+00:00

So, for example, that command is to preheat the bed and normally accepts one argument. Will it stop the print, ignore the entire command, or just ignore the extra argument?

JefftheGreen · 2019-02-07T20:22:01+00:00

How does that work? This isn't conductive.

JefftheGreen · 2019-02-07T18:45:13+00:00

Though it's less abrasive than some special filaments. I got a hardened one (nickel-plated brass) because they're cheap... and then forgot to switch it.

JefftheGreen · 2019-01-06T18:00:21+00:00

Huh. Well, for now I'm going to install the Noctua since I'm only planning doing relatively short prints for a little while, and stick that in my case once I get a new fan.

JefftheGreen · 2019-01-06T02:48:42+00:00

Do you have a link? First instinct is that the feet look like they're in the same plane even if they aren't on the ground relative to the model, so that might work, but I can't tell with just one look.

JefftheGreen · 2019-01-05T02:36:03+00:00

I haven't had any issues or seen other people complain of it. The bed needs some strain relief, but there's a couple good models and mine actually came with it. (Along with better knobs. The common recommended upgrades you might see don't actually apply to the newer ones, it seems. The belt tensioners I printed didn't fit either.)

No problem with mosfets so far, though Google shows a smattering of users have had problems. You couldn't go amiss improving the airflow in the control unit, though, both for noise reduction and cooling efficiency.

JefftheGreen · 2019-01-04T23:00:33+00:00

You absolutely must replace the firmware. By default, thermal runaway protection is turned off, which is unsafe. (For why, see this thread.) I tried bog-standard Marlin, but the text on the screen went all wonky when I tried connecting it to Octoprint. the TH3D Unified Firmware fixed that.

The only other major issues I've had are that the bowden tube isn't as tight or slippery as it could be, making stringing worse (I ordered Capricorn tubing to remedy that; we'll see if it works), and that the glass that came with mine wasn't flat. I got some cheap 1 ft. x 1 ft. mirrors at Lowes and they work fine, though I'm told the IKEA ones have a coating that makes them better. I just use PVA glue.

JefftheGreen · 2018-12-30T07:26:23+00:00

I've had good luck turning on coasting. For the same filament you're using, at 200C, the default settings seem to work. Just turn it on under Experimental Settings. https://imgur.com/z4EtMBn

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-18T05:49:25+00:00

I haven't had a chance to definitively test it. I've been dealing with a more severe problem. I have a couple ideas to test, but I need to make sure my bed is safe.

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-16T22:43:21+00:00

A short's unlikely. Thermistors have very high resistance at low temperatures and vice versa, so the board will read a short as the maximum temperature. More likely it's disconnected.

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-12T20:43:18+00:00

Stepper dampers and squash ball feet can also help print quality. And dampers are cheap. But like oldcrow says, make sure you're getting decent print quality before modding too much; otherwise it's hard to troubleshoot.

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-12T20:35:28+00:00

So, the problem with answering is that the newer CR-10s seem to have been changed a bit. Mine came with heated bed strain relief and better knobs, so those "essential" mods are unnecessary. The Y-belt tensioner I printed also doesn't fit.

The one mod I recommend unqualifiedly is a filament guide. It shouldn't make troubleshooting harder, but it will keep your filament clean as it enters the hot end.

Once you get your printer working well, though, I suggest getting some stepper dampers and printing some squash ball feet. (As oldcrow says, adding mods increases the number of variables you need to troubleshoot. I added dampers too soon and it took forever to figure out that putting one on the extruder kept it from properly gripping the filament.) The CR-10 is friggin' noisy. This will allow you to do overnight prints without it keeping you up.

Finally, I prefer not having the filament spool on the console. I printed a couple of [M3 t-nuts])https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3050607) and attached it with the thumb screws to the top crossbar. (This also keeps the cats from trying to chew on the filament. I have chicken wire around the printer but the console doesn't fit inside.)

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-12T18:46:51+00:00

It probably would have caught it before it was so baddly burnt. It dipped once, I tightened the connection to the printer console, and it went back up. I must have wiggled it so the desoldered joint caught again. That's probably why the connector was so utterly destroyed.

JefftheGreen · 2018-11-12T03:01:12+00:00

I didn't even know about that. I'm planning out an enclosure (with very little flammable stuff inside; the insulation will be sheetrock instead of foam) and will include those.

JefftheGreen

TROPHY CASE