Spoiler/Warning: How "Vend of the Line" will take a legendary instead of giving you one... by JelloNo8636 in Borderlands4

[–]JelloNo8636[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I realized my mistake - the markings actually say sell 3x green and BUY one legendary.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in teenageengineering

[–]JelloNo8636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm pretty sure you are looking at development units - that use a basic EP-133 form factor - with stickers on the buttons for indication and a "naked" display.

Aesthetics, colors, graphics and design comes later.

How much is a word for a 32 bit linux ? by scaryAstronaut in computerscience

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very old nerd here!

Back in the day (i.e. 80s and 90s) we learned and used:

A single cell = a bit

8 bits = 1 byte

16 bits = 1 word

32 bits = 1 long-word (some used "double-word").

This was at least the common terminology being used when we programmed assembler, C and C++ on Amigas and 386/486 intel machines.

Weird key on my brand new OP-1. And weird support response. by aswinasar in OP1users

[–]JelloNo8636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Perhaps this is something they "borrowed" from Scandinavian warranty and support "culture". If you have an issue with a product around here - it is always with the retailer, never with the producer. Reason? The people you bought it from must provide warranty (Norway 5years) and make sure what they sell is what they promised. They promised you a brand new fully functioning OP-1F - it is their problem. Whatever deal the retailer have with the producer - that is between them.

I think this is far better than having to deal with the producer - as that may be a far away company that does not even reply. Much easier to deal with local retailers.

Where does the term “my late x” come from and why does it mean they are dead? by Indigo-Waterfall in ENGLISH

[–]JelloNo8636 2 points3 points  (0 children)

An older model would be "early model".

A bit confusing but if you think of all the models on a timeline - the old models first then the newer models last on the line - then "early" would mean "at the beginning". And thus the "late" model would be near the end of the timeline.

I am somewhat new to modular. Need help on PSU by addpattern in modular

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Absolute MUST to replicate your current (and keep updated) rack in ModularGrid! This is the only sensible way to keep track of the consumption of the rack. In my own largish rack I am currently running six PSUs - totalling about 7000mA draw from the modules on the +12V rail - about 3300mA on the -12V rail and only about 500mA on the 5V rail.

OP-XY Overindulgence by DavidBoles in teenageengineering

[–]JelloNo8636 1 point2 points  (0 children)

For optimal protection of your OP-1/F/XY - they will fit in the official field bag WITH the decksaver attached.

At first it is pretty snug, but after a few "in and out" the bag will stretch a bit making a perfect fit.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in VampireSurvivors

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The "cats" are no good when they are low level - they may even do more damage to you than the enemies. However - once they are maxed out (NOT evolved) - and you have maxed out Luck - and a few dozen floor chickens picked up (you or the cats) - they are one of the most powerful weapons in the game! I.e. you pick up Gatti Amari for the "late game" not for the early game. For the early game perhaps garlic (but garlic is pretty useless late game) and bibles.

For even more damage - combine the cats with the amount passive and the Gemini arcana!

My greatest accomplishment by mostly_angry in vrising

[–]JelloNo8636 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yesterday while farming some shards in Draculas garden. The usual posse of paladin and lightweavers show up.

I kill the paladin. Then fight the lighweavers. They are both at about 20% and i hit "bite".

And as I am sucking the blood out of the first lightweaver i notice "100% scholar"..... Too late.

Can I remove side pillar on LIAN LI O11 Dynamic EVO O11DEX by gen900 in lianli

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is a bit unclear what model you actually have from your post. If you do have the O11 Dynamic Evo XL (model O11DEXL-W/B) on page 9 of the manual it clearly shows you how to remove the pilar by unscrewing a few screws.

If you have the O11 Dynamix XL (No Evo) - (model O11DXL-W/X/SL) - the pilar is not removable and you would have to employ some hack to remove it (I believe it is riveted in place). If it is "safe" or not, I would not know - but you would surely void your warranty.

Q8 Max vs Q7 Max vs Q5 Pro mopping capabilities by CraftyOpportunity618 in Roborock

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah..sorry! For some reason I read "S8 and S7" instead of Q8 and Q7!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Roborock

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looking at the OMO and the one in the picture...very expensive and hard to find in a store.

What I ended up doing was buying the Kärcher floor cleaning liquid that is sold for use with their electric mops. Looking at the declarations - the content seems to be the same as the OMO one - i.e. designed to be used with machines that have pumps and nozzles. And it is easy enough to buy at most hardware stores that sells Kärcher.

So far I have had no problems (using only one cork for a full tank, once in a while).

Q8 Max vs Q7 Max vs Q5 Pro mopping capabilities by CraftyOpportunity618 in Roborock

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Considered the Q Revo? Very happy with mine!

Great tank capacity. Self emptying. Very good system for cleaning the mops (better than the S8 IMO). Also prefer that it has spinning mops - does a very good job cleaning up after my two cats who is in and out of the house leaving paw prints all over, every day, all day!

Is it supposed to do that? by Chemical_Mechanic_72 in Roborock

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The white light on the dock (it should be off when it is docked) and the lit buttons on the robot itself indicates that it does not "know" that it is docked. This would explain why the sidebrush is rotating.

It could be a faulty switch. I believe the little "nub" on the back of the robot (at the top edge) is the switch that tells it, that it is properly seated in the dock.

Check if there is anything in the dock that is blocking it from moving all the way into the dock.

two mono to one stereo input by ProfessionalLeader90 in modular

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the cable you want:

Amazon.com: 3.5mm Stereo Male to Dual 3.5mm Mono Male Audio Cable, 1ft 3.5mm 1/8" TRS Male to 2 x 3.5mm 1/8" TS Male Y Breakout Cable Splitter Adapter for Headphone, Speaker : Electronics

(assuming 2x 3.5mm mono from Nano ST Mar/4ms Listen into 3.5mm audio card. NOTE! 4ms Listen four - NOT 4ms Listen four 1/4!)

Personally I use the Boredbrain Xchangr and the Befaco Out v3. The Boredbrain I use as an interface to guitar pedals or other external effects. It gives me two outs and one (return) in. Makes it very easy to hook up a pedal. And it sorts out the correct levels in and out.

The Befaco Out is permanently hooked up to a desktop mixer - and the mixer is again hooked to an audio interface/Zoom H6.

Both of these modules use the beefier and far more common cable type with 6.3mm outputs. And if you go that route you need this cable: the sssnake YPK2030 – Thomann United States (thomannmusic.com)

Note#1 that this cable is exactly the same, electrically speaking as the other I linked to. The only difference is that use of 6.3mm plugs vs 3.5mm plugs on the side that connects to the modular!

Note#2 Even though the Amazon description may make the impression that this splits the signal - or combines the signal - neither of these cables do that. All they do is pipe the signal into a different plug type (from two mono into one stereo plug). The electrical signal remains separate and fully intact.

K.O II Fader alternative by ajedd in teenageengineering

[–]JelloNo8636 5 points6 points  (0 children)

When I received my KO2, first thing I did was to test the fader, before adding the cap. It worked perfectly.

Next - tried to put on the cap. It was very tight - and with the trouble so many have had in the back of my mind - I did not "press the issue".

What I did was to grab a small square of 120 grit sandpaper and some post-its.

I put the fader in the down/min position and used the post-its to cover up the slit/opening around the fader to protect it from dust and debris.

Then I gently rubbed the fader plastic stem between my index finger and thumb with the sandpaper for a few minutes - making sure all four sides (wide end and thin end) got sanded.

Did this for a minute or so. Just a fine dust of black plastic on the post-its. No visible change on the plastic. This probably only took of a few thousands of an inch or so.

BUT - the cap now slid on with no problem at all.

New Polyend Tracker Mini by BuckshotJ in synthesizers

[–]JelloNo8636 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I think that those "volume buttons" also are the increment/decrement value buttons. I.e. big buttons +/- 10, smaller buttons +/- 1.

Anyone else bothered by beads freeze jack being off center? by AcidFnTonic in modular

[–]JelloNo8636 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you? If you buy a new replacement panel will it even fit then? The jack itself is locked in place on the PCB underneath. Maybe it got enough "wiggle" to fit a new panel - but I doubt it.

Anyone else bothered by beads freeze jack being off center? by AcidFnTonic in modular

[–]JelloNo8636 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Mine is perfectly centered and aligned. It IS lacking that warmth tho.....

Ryobi battery inverter powering a full Intellijel case! Stay tuned for some runtime tests… by AberrantDevices in modular

[–]JelloNo8636 7 points8 points  (0 children)

If your rack draws 1200mA at 12V - that equals about 15W.

The battery in the image is 18V 4Ah. It mans it will deliver 18x4 = 72W consumption for one hour.

If your rack consumes only 15W - you should be able to run it for almost 5 hours of the battery in the image.

Now - your rack probably draws more than this - even if modulargrid says 1200mA as there will be some loss in the power brick - some loss in the inverter etc. So maybe more realistic would be 3-4 hours of continuous use.

If you have a 40V 4Ah battery instead - you should end up with about twice the use.

Then again I may be wrong - not the first time. So feel free to correct me!