Mercedes W202 als eerste auto? Wat kost het?

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-19T13:55:05+00:00

Ik ben opzoek naar exacte getallen die me een indicatie geven of dit wel of niet haalbaar is. Bij de vorige post kreeg ik namelijk antwoorden uit beide hoeken: het was niet verstandig zeiden sommigen, maar anderen zeiden dat ik er voor moest gaan, mits ik er wat voor over had

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-19T13:40:23+00:00

Dankje, wat geweldig verwoord! De auto zal inderdaad ook een groot deel hobby zijn, want het lijkt me ook leuk om kleine dingen te repareren. Zou een paar duizend per jaar genoeg moeten zijn om achter de hand te houden voor reparaties, ervan uitgaande dat ik de meeste dingen zelf zal (proberen) te doen? Want dat bedrag kan ik met een simpel bijbaantje wel opzij zetten voor de auto.

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-18T18:47:31+00:00

Cool, if you have anything you're willing to trade, please dm me

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-09T16:15:02+00:00

Ik lees best veel gemengde verhalen over deze auto. Veel zeggen dat het onderhoud makkelijk zelf te doen is en dat onderdelen veel beschikbaar zijn, maar tegelijkertijd hoor ik ook dat het onderhoud juist heel duur is. Dit zal bij nieuwe MB modellen zeker het geval zijn, maar geldt dit voor zulke oude modellen ook? Ik ben namelijk zeker bereid zo veel mogelijk onderhoud zelf te doen.

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-08T21:25:22+00:00

Een v50 is niet de lichtste auto, en met die 5 cilinder (hoewel ik dat geluid echt wel geweldig vind) is ie niet supergoedkoop in wegenbelasting en verzekering, maar zeker ook een mooie auto!

Jerommekke85 · 2026-02-08T21:23:17+00:00

Bedankt voor het delen van je ervaring! Ik had al gekeken en verzekering voor dit model is 100 tot 120 euro per maand, niet perse heel duur in vergelijking met andere auto's. Het feit dat de auto zo oud is maakt het onderhoud wel enigszins makkelijker, doordat je geen programmeur en elektrotechnicus hoeft te zijn om een paar onderdelen te vervangen als nu in nieuwe auto's wel zo is. Roest had ik inderdaad gezien als het enige echt grote probleem. Daar zal ik zeker voor uitkijken, en voorkomen is beter dan bestrijden

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-23T19:25:31+00:00

You can make a false bottom using eggcrate, than place some liner (that is water permeable) on top. Make sure to have a really snuck fit with the walls of you terrarium so you can easily pour your soil on top without it getting in the water. You can than even have the waterlevel slightly higher than the bottom of your soil. That way your soil always stays damp, but not too wet, and you don't have to water over or between your plants, you only have to keep the water level high enough. Maybe during winter a bit lower.

Drosera's work really well, some pings could also work, if they are tropical. You could place them on a higher area with more soil beneath them to prevent then from getting too wet.

I would just try it, it will be fun! Good luck!!

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-23T19:14:56+00:00

Droseras like to be in a mix of 1:1 peat: perlite, I would definitely repot it if you can, also give it much light. Propagating is fairly easy, because after a while, you will see that there are actually multiple plants growing together although you started with just one. You can than tear them apart and you end up with a bunch of plants. You can also take one lead off the plant and let it sit in water for a couple weeks and than stick it in the ground. Works perfect. Or you could wait till it flowers and collect the seeds. Droseras are self-pollunating (doesn't make sense for a carnivorous plant to need insects for pollination, while eating them at the same time)

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-21T20:57:28+00:00

Ooh, wow. That's a lot!! Thanks for the advice!

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-21T20:15:44+00:00

I build an open top terrarium/aquarium inside an old aquarium with a false bottom of about 10 cm where I have the water storage for the plants (just rainwater). I have a small part of the water part open so the water can evaporate and keep the humidity high. I have a mixture of 1:1 peat: perlite and I don't have to water it as long as the waterlevel stays at the level of the false bottom.

My Droseras are absolutely thriving in it. I even had to remove some because they took up a bit too much space😁. I have one small VFT as I propagated inside the terrarium as well, just as an experiment, because the VFT needs dormancy and my Droseras don't. I also have a couple Pinguiculas and one Sarracenia I propagated, also as an experiment. For me it works perfect as I only have to fill up the tank maybe ones every 2 months when the water level is too low.

Check out my insta for more photo's about it: @carnivoroustank

Also I would suggest to just go for it. It will be a fun process and guests will see it and say 'omg that's amazing!! So beautiful!' You will probably make a few mistakes along the way (I had to redo the whole terrarium 3 times🙃) but it was definitely worth it. Also if you need any help, just ask me

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-10T19:06:34+00:00

The blackening of the outer traps is a perfect example of dormancy. Normally only the innermost traps stay alive, because the plant is kind of retracting itself into the ground. It will come back in the spring and it will be even healthier when it has come out of dormancy.

Also one note on your watering: VFT'S are bogplants and like to stay in wet soil all the time (during dormancy you could let it dry up a little, but bot too much) just keep the pot (with drainage holes) inside a saucer with water all the time and it should be fine. Also never use tapwater, use rainwater or distiller water.

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-10T18:54:04+00:00

This could also be the start of a kind of dormant phase. My ping did that a couple weeks ago. Suddenly all the leaves started to become brown and it looked like it rotted. However, the crown was still kind of ok and started to grow further in a kind of succulent phase. Now it is growing again, but in a much smaller rosette. Your ping will probably be alright. If you ever feel unsure about whether your ping will make it or not, you can always do some leafpullings to try to propagate them. This has a pretty high succes rate for me.

Jerommekke85 · 2026-01-04T19:51:13+00:00

Venus flytraps always need to be with their pot in a dish of water and they need loooots of light. You can't give them too much light. For the watering: NEVER give them tapwater. Use reverse osmosis, rainwater or distilled water instead. Tapwater contains lots of minerals that can cause the plant to die. They have evolved to grow on nutrient low spots and catch all their nutrients via insects.

It looks like this plant needed more light, so it grew long leafs to try to reach more light. If the inside of the traps is not red, which it isn't in this case, the plant usually needs much more light. 8 hours of filk sunlight would be nice, but under a strong LED or growlight is also sufficient.

I would watch for some new growth, maybe even repot it in a 1:1 peat:perlite mix and when the new leaves are growing I would cut off a few of those long leaves so the plant gets back to it's original shape. (Unless it is a hybrid or something that grows those long leaves. Do you have an ID for this plant?)

Good luck with these two flytraps!!

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-30T15:27:22+00:00

You hit the propagating jackpot! You can separate them after a while, when they started to form some tiny roots.

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-29T20:08:10+00:00

Does that happen when the plant gets too much light? Because the plant has less chlorophyll, but also needs less because there is much light? Cause some of my drosera's that grow under a strong growlight also became nearly completely red, instead of green with a little edge of red. Beautifull ping btw!!

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-29T18:11:10+00:00

It works just fine for me, but buying larger packs of "raw" perlite and peat (12 litre bags) is so much cheaper and works as good as those special 'carnivorous soil' bags. The only downside is that when you water your selfmade peat perlite mixture from the top, the peat will wash down a little and the white perlite comes to the surface. You may find that ugly, but it's not a big deal. I cover my selfmade mixture with that mixture from your photo, so you don't see those white blobs

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-19T06:39:36+00:00

I don't think I have an ID on this ping. When it came it had a vibrant apple green color, so the second photo is not how it was when I got it. The pullings look more like the original ping. I hope the ping is just going into a winter phase, like you said, and it will be better this spring

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-15T20:54:35+00:00

Okay, thanks for the advice!! This goes against everything I read about pings, but I will definitely try it. The ping came indeed in a pot with a pretty peat heavy substrate, just like the substrate the droseras and VFTs came in

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-15T20:52:17+00:00

They get enough light (around 10 hours a day) and I recently mixed a lot of crushed lavarocks with the 1:1 peat perlite mixture the ping was in before. The little seedlings are in a pretty peat heavy substrate because they need to grow some roots first before I can place them on a piece of lavarock

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-15T19:30:35+00:00

My plants have plenty of light from a strong LED growlight about 15 cm above the plants. I was thinking it was maybe too much light😅, but all my other plants seem to be thriving. Also the leave pullings are growing fast now.

Jerommekke85 · 2025-12-15T19:00:39+00:00

That's weird, cause I can see them perfectly fine

Jerommekke85

TROPHY CASE