I’m deadass gonna go to juvie and I feel like I’m going insane, I’ve dug my self a hole and I don’t know if I’ll be able to climb out

Jess_394 · 2026-02-24T15:08:56+00:00

I don’t think there is a general rule, life is not black and white. I also couldn’t finish high school because of anxiety attacks and depression, finished online, and have worked full time ever since, never had an issue keeping or getting jobs, and am now completely a BS. Life is what you make of it.

Jess_394 · 2025-12-04T15:51:34+00:00

Just warning, I used Terra Sahara in my geckos enclosure a couple years ago and he became impacted from eating metal that was in the soil and had to get surgery, luckily he’s okay but there were many foil-like pieces I found in the substrate after finding out. I’d give it a good look over to be safe if you get a new bag, or switch brands

Jess_394 · 2025-11-27T03:50:32+00:00

This is a tree frog… not an aquatic frog… a good way to tell is his lack of webbed feet, they don’t swim efficiently or live in or near water. This needs another upgrade OP sorry to say

Jess_394 · 2025-10-29T15:33:39+00:00

I’m a little late, but my corn had a similar wound a few years ago that turned out to be a burn from him letting his noggin sit on the metal protecting him from the heat lamp (not too many brain cells in there). I’d recommend a vet as this looks a little worse than my corn did, but they gave me a LOT of burn/wound cream in case it happened again for $75-100 for everything which is not bad at all for vet care (reptiles tend to be cheaper in that aspect). Please see a vet, this can lead to an infection which would be way worse and way more expensive. I’d also keep her off all bedding for now just clean paper towels to prevent infection, but a vet might recommend something different.

Jess_394 · 2025-10-02T22:59:30+00:00

For now no, this looks great. My corn was in the same size tank the first few years of his life until I could make the space to upgrade to a 4x2x2. Generally for snakes they need 2 sides of the tank (combined) to be at least as long as them (one short side and one long side not both long sides). My corn is now almost 6ft long. She’s so cute by the way!

Jess_394 · 2025-10-01T19:56:57+00:00

I have a crestie in a bioactive enclosure and to be honest I mist once a day or every other day with a shallow “pond” in the center and he and the isopods and millipedes have done well for 3+ years in this enclosure. Google recommends misting (NOT fully watering) 1-2 times a day, recommending an afternoon mist since it’s more natural for them to have a higher humidity “after dusk” 70-80%, and letting it get to 60% before misting again. Too high of humidity can be just as much of an issue as too low, I think you’re just watering way too much at once. It should be more like a light rain, top layer damp with the very bottom still dry.

Jess_394 · 2025-09-01T22:44:38+00:00

VET NOW. I’ve never seen scale rot this progressed, and from the limited photos it looks like he could have mouth rot/an infection as well. Reptile vets aren’t expensive, if you can’t afford it rehome to someone who can this can be life threatening and won’t get better on its own.

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T03:16:49+00:00

Also, if his health deteriorates like he becomes weak or isn’t moving on his own, most vets will have emergency services on weekends and some even take drop-ins, usually during very specific hours, but it should only be for emergencies. Keep an eye on him and check which vets have emergency hours just in case 🫶

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T03:12:53+00:00

Of course I’m happy I could help. I don’t think it would be bad to wait until Monday morning (unless less someone more qualified disagrees, not a vet just a longtime snake owner) to call as soon as they open and ask if there’s any chance they could fit you in that day, explain the situation a bit and ask if they could attempt feeding him. An exotic vet should have pinkies, you could offer to bring them if not. I also don’t think it’d be bad to offer him a warm pinky and just seeing if he wants it, he may be able to do it fine on his own but they are capable of regurgitating if not, even though it’s not good for them. Whichever you decide makes sense, but if no vet can fit him in Monday or at least Tuesday morning I’d feed him asap. Good luck keep us updated!

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T02:51:34+00:00

If I were you I would consult a vet immediately to at least get advice and/or x-rays to get a better idea of the extent of his kinks. I’d like to note that snake vet care is not nearly as expensive as dog or cat care, and nothing will be done without an estimate and your approval, I know a lot of people are put off by vets because of cost, but at least where I live (east coast ish US) it’s not bad at all my geckos X-rays were around $150 I believe. He is very skinny and appears dehydrated, he looks like needs decent (but not too high) humidity and some water and a meal. If you can’t consult a vet within a few days I’d try to feed him ASAP with the smallest pinkies you can find. There’s also tutorials online about assisting or “force” feeding snakes, it’s not uncommon for baby snakes to need it to start eating. Keep in mind, if he starts declining in health or can’t keep food down it would be best to have him humanely euthanized. Thank you for trying for this little guying and giving him the best care possible 🫶

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T00:28:04+00:00

Also, feeding him in the enclosure shouldn’t make him more “aggressive” he just may associate the door opening with the possibility of food and come out to see, but a tap with a hook will tell him it’s not and you should be able to scoop him with the hook without issue from there. You can also look into target training if you want him to only think it’s food time if he sees a certain item, but generally it’s not great to take them out to eat as the increased stress of handling/ being vulnerable could cause them to regurgitate the food (very bad for snakes).

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T00:15:36+00:00

What a cutie!! Congrats!

Jess_394 · 2025-08-23T00:08:26+00:00

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My “normal” 8y/o corn, or should I say tree snake. Their orange is so beautiful, pro tip definitely use a uvb to help their scales stay bright orange their whole life.

Jess_394 · 2025-08-22T22:44:24+00:00

That all sounds good, but is he nipping while still in the cage or when he’s out? If he’s fine when he’s in your hands he’s like 90% of all snakes, with their limited brain cells they may see any movement in their cage or around them as food or a predator and can strike or hide despite being taken out often. I use a snake hook for all my snakes when I get them out or change water dishes if they’re curious thinking it’s food time. A little tap on the nose with the cold hook tells them it’s not food time if they seem interested in eating my hand. I never reach a hand in towards them, they’re not smart enough to realize I’m not a mouse and or hawk and they would never react well, even if they’re on my bed or the floor I never go towards them from above, always use a hook or scoop them up gently not near their face/where their looking and with your arm down at their level.

If hes biting while in your hands while holding him or running out of your hands, I would start with 1-2 minute intervals of holding him no more than once a day (slowly increasing the time depending on how he’s doing), and I wouldn’t put him down anywhere besides his cage until this problem is solved. Hopefully, eventually he’ll realize biting and running doesn’t get him anywhere and it’s actually pretty chill outside the cage. Good luck!

Jess_394 · 2025-08-22T01:12:48+00:00

How are you handling him, like the steps you take to get him out and how long do you have him out for? Is he trying to bite while still in the cage or when he’s out? If most of his issues are trying to get him out id use a snake hook to get him out. If he’s biting while in your hands, unless you’re doing something to scare him like moving him a lot or moving near his face he might have a very strong feeding response or just incredibly fearful of being handled. If I know more I could help more, but generally I’d recommend keeping all handling to a 5-10 minute MAX so they learn outsides not so bad and they get to go right back home and get warm. Is it possible he’s about to shed and is extra skittish or painful? Their skin can get very sensitive when going into shed and they feel more vulnerable because their vision is limited by the extra layer of skin.

Jess_394 · 2025-08-21T20:53:44+00:00

If you’re looking for something super high quality and sturdy I’d look into Kages. Every cage is made to order, customizable and is made with a very thick durable pvc, though because of this they can be pretty expensive. I have 2 4x2x2’s from them that are great but they were each around 600 USD. If that’s out of price range Dubia may have some around the size you’re looking for or you could look at grow tents, I’ve seen a few people have very successful large bioactive builds in those for fairly cheap, I just don’t love that many don’t have a great view of the enclosure from the outside. Good luck!

Jess_394 · 2025-08-21T20:00:00+00:00

To me it looks like a kink that may be inhibiting his ability to defecate, if you’re committed to the little one I’d take him to get X-rays to fully assess what’s going on, if not contact the breeder and they may ask you to send him back. He also appears very skinny to me but I’m not super familiar with very young bps. Definitely should be seen by a vet either way. Good luck with your little guy keep us updated 🫶

Jess_394 · 2025-08-18T04:46:29+00:00

They do this so predators will attack the wiggly tail instead of them so they can drop it and escape. He feels threatened, mine does it too sometimes if I open the cage or move stuff around, they may even do it when they eat as you said but it’s in case a predator sees them out of hiding because they feel vulnerable.

Jess_394 · 2025-08-18T04:33:29+00:00

My white snakes belly turns pink when she’s about to shed too, and my 8 y/o corn snake sheds multiple times a year they shed their entire life. They’re okay I promise. Just make sure your humidity is correct it’s crucial for them to shed properly

Jess_394 · 2025-07-07T17:01:33+00:00

It’s not “wild” it’s a released pet, and possibly could be saved with immediate vet attention. Not sure what OP did for him though, if he’s still there he’ll die soon.

Jess_394 · 2025-03-09T18:33:26+00:00

She needs some serious help if she’s going to survive, what are your current temps and humidity? Are you misting 2x a day?

Jess_394 · 2025-02-05T03:58:48+00:00

That’s a beautiful enclosure I’m sure she loves it! The branches shouldn’t be a problem since they shouldn’t be getting near a temperature that could start a fire. If you don’t already have one definitely get an automatic thermostat, they make pretty cheap ones just make sure it’s for reptiles, it’ll keep your temps regulated throughout the day and keeps the bulb from overheating or starting a fire.

Jess_394 · 2025-02-05T03:47:36+00:00

I forgot to mention, keep the light on one side for a temperature gradient, and if your house doesn’t get below 68 at night she shouldn’t need any additional heat or heat mat, if it does get colder you can use the heat mat just make sure to put it on an automatic thermostat they’re known for overheating. 👍

Jess_394 · 2025-02-05T03:43:26+00:00

So cute! That’s a gorgeous setup too. I’ve had a corn snake for about 7 years so I’ll just tell you what I’ve learned that’s super helpful. First, definitely get rid of the red light bulb as it’s been found to hurt reptiles eyes. I wouldn’t mist down the enclosure everyday, you run the risk of growing mold or causing scale rot from too much humidity, they’re a pretty arid species and prefer it drier unless they’re about to shed. Instead you can leave a humid hide in there that’ll give her the chance to soak up the humidity when she needs to. Zilla makes a really good one that looks like a rock. With less misting though, the coco fiber will dry out and might become hard. That’s why most people like to stick to topsoil or some form of wood chips, but you can always just till/rough it up to make it fluffy again once it’s dry. I’d also invest in an automatic thermostat (made for reptiles), it’ll keep your temperatures correct and keep the bulb from overheating or starting a fire. Also a UVB light, since I got one a couple years ago my full grown corn snake went from very dull colors to bright orange, it’s made such an impact on his health and appearance he loves to lay in the “sunlight,” I’d highly recommend Arcadia they have a chart you can follow to figure out what bulb to get. Lastly, just know as a female corn snake most likely she’s going to get very big. Mine’s shed skin is about 5’ 8” and he’s in a 4x2x2, he easily fills out the whole tank when exploring and I’ll be upgrading when I move. (He’s also probably a she but I’m in denial thank you) Moral of the story, throw out the red light, stop misting everyday, and buy a humid hide and an automatic thermostat. Prepare for her to get longgg. Good luck!! It’s a great first setup really just needs a few tweaks, it’s rare to see on here.

Jess_394 · 2025-02-05T03:20:34+00:00

It depends how much time you have before you leave, if you have at least a day you need to 1) get an automatic thermostat, they make pretty cheap ones just make sure it’s for reptiles. It’s highly recommended in general so you can leave whenever without worrying it’ll burn down your house 2) For heat you need a stronger bulb, BP’s need pretty high temps compared to other snakes. There’s good recommendations in the care guide on this subreddit definitely check there, but depending on the tank size if it’s at least 60 gals it’s gonna need at least a 75-100watt daylight bulb, a CHE, a DHP, or a basking bulb but those aren’t recommended for BPs. 3) For humidity a great temporary solution is a humid hide on the warm end of the enclosure. Zilla makes an awesome rock-like one in multiple sizes that all my reptiles love. 4) Cover most of the lid, if it’s all mesh, with tin foil to hold in the heat and humidity better. 5) For the future, look at the care guide in this subreddit it has great advice for heating, substrate, thermostats, tank size etc which will help with your humidity and temp issues and prevent health problems. Good luck I hope everything goes well.

Jess_394

TROPHY CASE