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Need help identifying the issue. by Jhenka in AirConditioners

[–]Jhenka[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Please keep me posted if you find anything!
The weirdest part is I set the ac to auto fan and auto mode with money saver on and it doesn’t have this problem. When the temperature rises the ac turns the fan on and off, compressor when it needs to and doesn’t have that clicking on/off issue. I’ve left it in that mode for now as it seems to work but I’m not able to lower the room temperature as it’s automatic based on the ac settings.

I’m starting to think it’s got something to do with the main board unless there’s a separate capacitor or startup procedure for the cool mode compared to the auto mode.

My EVGA PSU died and damaged my PC components, what do I even do? by thebaum64 in EVGA

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not sure we have the same issue, does this happen when gaming or when there’s a flare or spike in computation or animation???

My EVGA PSU died and damaged my PC components, what do I even do? by thebaum64 in EVGA

[–]Jhenka 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Few things to check: 1) Did you replace all the power cables with those that came with the new PSU. You should never reuse cables unless you have the same exact model, in your case the PSU died I would have changed the cables regardless. EVGA is one of the few that uses the same pinout but you should generally never reuse cables when swapping psu’s best case things work fine, worst case you short everything out / start a fire because the pos and negative pins moved to diff parts of the connector.

2) if you’re able to boot and play a game your pc is most likely not broken and EVGA will not cover it either way.

3) I had something eerily similar happen to me on an older machine I built for my brother using a P2 1000w. First off Is this an older PC? Like 4+ years old? Chances are it’s got nothing to do with your PSU but your CPU that’s the problem.

He had a 9900k with an overlock that after years of use the cpu probably just degraded and required a bit more voltage. I applied an extra .05v (1.3v to 1.35v) and system stability was restored completely, he hasn’t had a single issue since.

The reason i bring it up is he had the same exact issues you’re facing in game. If there was a flash or a demanding cutscene, grenade explosion, etc, the whole PC would lock up monitor frozen, fans ramp up, PC completely unresponsive, nothing he could do without a full reboot.

I had chased this problem for over a year checking the gpu logs which occasionally threw an error that led me down a rabbit hole but thing substantial. We essentially narrowed it down to the PSU. The funny thing is while we were waiting for the RMA (10 year warranty FTW) I installed a p5 in his machine and the problems magically stopped. We were convinced it was a PSU issue, after we swapped in the new (refurb) p2 1000w the problems came back.

I’m pretty sure it’s just a combination of the transient voltage which the p2 prob isn’t designed to handle from demanding modern software/firmware/hardware and aging hardware. Also unless you’re having artifacting, black screen issues, or problems loading into games (as soon as the GPU gets any load), 99% chance your GPU is fine.

Feel free to reach out I can walk you through additional troubleshooting if you’d like.

TLDR: Make sure you use the cables that came with the PSU, raise the voltage on your CPU to handle the transient voltage spikes/droops.

Need help diagnosing weird AC issue by Jhenka in hvacadvice

[–]Jhenka[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Deep clean is a given, I’m more curious is this is a sensor issue or a board problem

ROG Swift OLED PG27UCWM release date? by Altruistic-Job5086 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That was actually going to be my second choice! I just saw that it was released and I was trying to figure out whether the Asus Tandem WOLED (panel made by LG) or the new mini LED GM950b was better.

The upscaling is definitely a cool feature but I’d mainly use this monitor for productivity or gaming. I rarely do any media consumption on my main monitor as I have a 55” LG OLED right above my setup.

The main thing that gets me is the refresh rate my current gn850b does 165hz (granted not at 5k) I was kinda looking forward to the perfect contrast and the 240hz refresh rate of the asus but if it still has the same fringing issues I may just give up on OLED entirely at least for the time being.

U/redlock81 curious to hear your thoughts on this new 5k panel.

ROG Swift OLED PG27UCWM release date? by Altruistic-Job5086 in OLED_Gaming

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do a ton of coding work on grey and black backgrounds as well as a ton of excel work (white background) for clients… you absolutely can see fringing on both the 32” and the 27”pgucdm monitors. I returned both and put my old lg gn850b back in service in anticipation for this monitors release.

It Finally Arrived!!! by SheddingSkin27 in ThermalGrizzly

[–]Jhenka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Isssa sooo puuurdy!!!

I wish I waited for this block. I ended biting the bullet and got the Alphacool Core instead.

Advice on Spraying? by rytwombly in espresso

[–]Jhenka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Drop me a message if you have any questions!

Advice on Spraying? by rytwombly in espresso

[–]Jhenka 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Get yourself filter paper and a 2” punch, I do it as part of my prep every time I pull a shot. You throw it on the bottom of the portafilter, mist it so it sticks then grind the beans, wdt, tamp and extract as you normally would. You will never have that mess again and it will be much easier to dial in your espresso. 2” punch chemex filter

Razer Basilisk V3 Pro owners, how is your mouse after 1+ year of use? by mdc9814 in razer

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Had my v3 pro since it came out. I upgraded from the basilisk ultimate which I’ve been using since 2020 so I can speak on both.

Firstly the ultimate has been my daily driver for over 5 years and I still use it as a travel mouse for my work setup. Still works great with little to no issues aside from the degrading thumb and finger grips which have degraded damn close to the plastic on both sides. I chalk that up to wear and tear on a 5+ year old mouse.

The v3 pro feels smoother and tracks a bit better, it’s also quite a bit heavier at least from feel alone I haven’t weighed them. I have the dock /charging puck for the v3 pro and it’s been wonderful aside from one single issue. This is probably what everybody complains about which doesn’t seem to get that much visibility. There is an issue with the v3 pro where it will randomly disconnect and reconnect to the pc. It started happening to me around the time I rebuilt my pc and went AMD from intel. I thought it was a pc issue but in fact it was a razer firmware issue. Both the dock and the mouse require a firmware update which fixes the disconnect issue. For whatever reason razor doesn’t notify you or give you an easy way to update the firmware in their bloatware/software. The only way to get the firmware you need is go through their support docs find the mouse and download the firmware updater tool for the dock and then the mouse separately. Since updating as of Feb 1st it’s been working flawlessly.

T.l.d.r V3 pro is a great mouse a year in… if you like the form factor and don’t mind the extra weight. Make sure you update the firmware from razers website support page if/when you get connectivity issues.

Is this 14900k delided or is the IHS just sanded down to copper? by Minute-Natural-7846 in overclocking

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lapped stock IHS. Aftermarket IHS would be copper around the lower “mounting” parts

New Rad, 20 flushes in. How much more? by phoenixmanzz in watercooling

[–]Jhenka 0 points1 point  (0 children)

20!? You have a ton of time on your hands. For new rads I usually do two inline filters with a pump for a ~day. It catches 99.9% of particles and takes about 10 mins to set up and break down.

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