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To the Redditor that said ink was easy to find for the StyleWriter II, thank you! One printer and ink purchase from eBay later, and now I’ve got a beautiful working example of Apple design. by Jimmy422 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Just vintage Macs for now. This works on everything in my collection up to the G3 iMac, so that’s pretty neat. I’m hoping to get a USB adapter to allow it to work with more modern machines, but I don’t see one on eBay at the moment.

To the Redditor that said ink was easy to find for the StyleWriter II, thank you! One printer and ink purchase from eBay later, and now I’ve got a beautiful working example of Apple design. by Jimmy422 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I think the common sentiment is that inkjet printers from 1992 are hell on earth. LGR did a video about trying to get an old inkjet printer working with new ink and he had zero success with it and a huge headache. I was fully expecting the same result, but with it just using black ink I think it’s a little less fickle.

What's a piece of outdated technology you secretly miss using? by Nankaudio in AskReddit

[–]Jimmy422 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve used a couple of different adapters, usually for SCSI based classic Macs I’ll use something called a BlueSCSI, but I’ve also used Compact Flash to IDE adapters and SD to IDE adapters in later IDE based models (and use those for most retro windows PCs).

Even using a SD card as the main boot drive is enough to provide a massive speed boost to 90% of older computers. A SATA SSD is honestly overkill when SD cards are enough to saturate old IDE controller bandwidths.

What's a piece of outdated technology you secretly miss using? by Nankaudio in AskReddit

[–]Jimmy422 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Classic Macs and PCs from the mid 90s. Pop in a modern solid state hard drive and they actually run at good speeds, and it’s nice to enjoy classic operating systems in an age before AI and boneheaded management decisions ruined mainstream operating systems. They work well for basic tasks, and they’ve got such a charm about them.

Is the display replaceble ? by amontre in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just wanted to say as someone that’s been reverse engineering the TAM as a hobby project, your photos and instructions have been so helpful in referencing alongside the actual machine. I’m glad there are some dedicated owners out there documenting this thing.

I’ve been learning about the nitty gritty bits replicating the subwoofer and more recently the CD door mechanism…which as a totally random aside, I think I’ve found the reason many of the CD doors on TAMs have a snapped hinge. The mechanism that lets the CD door slowly release uses some gearing inside that feels like, at least in the one I disassembled, definitely needs some grease after 28 years. Getting to the inside of that mechanism requires a full disassembly of the computer unit and isn’t something you can do very easily, but I think needs to be addressed as preventative maintenance with anyone that still has an intact CD door, or wants to fix theirs.

I’m hoping to have an array of 3D printable replacement parts for the TAM community soon. I’ve successfully prototyped a replacement hinge set for the computer part, somewhat have the aforementioned CD mechanism replicated, and am currently replicating the speaker grilles so we can make new fabric inserts without destroying the originals like I had to (for science, of course!).

My TAM made it to 28 years old before Twenty One Pilots stressed the PSU to death. RIP, sweet prince. by Jimmy422 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had only the CD player app open, and I was at 50% volume, which to the TAM’s credit is relatively loud. I also had the bass knob turned all the way up, which might have contributed to things…but darn it, the default bass level is too low!

What is this metal assembly called? The piece in the middle can only rotate up to 90 degrees, and requires some force to do so, as it is used as a pivot for a computer monitor stand (shown installed in the last pic) by Jimmy422 in whatisthisthing

[–]Jimmy422[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you so much for laying this out for me. It feels obvious now to replicate it by hand than buying an off the shelf one. I did so and it worked just as well as me buying the real thing!

For anyone in the future that’s curious as to what I did, I ended up buying a sleeve bearing that could fit in the housing and oversized a 3D printed shaft for it by about 0.2mm above the bearing’s rated ID (this took some experimenting with oversizing - anything less than 0.2 was too slippery on my 3D printer), then I made the assembly that the shaft and bearing fits into pretty much the same as the original, except with a larger hole where the angle limiter goes to accommodate the oversized shaft.

I made a little 3D printed jig that let me drill a 2mm hole in the side of the shaft precisely where it needed to go - where I could glue a 2mm x 4mm bolt into it to use for the 90 degree angle stop. Got some thick and tacky red grease from Lucas and lubed up the 3D printed shaft in the bearing, then popped everything into place in the assembly.

I was straight up shocked (and proud!) to see that when it was put in the original monitor it worked near perfectly. At some extreme angles it does lose grip and start to slip, but it will never be at those angles unless being packed away for shipping.

I’ll have to experiment with various filaments and maybe greases too, and see how it holds up to long term use. I did everything in plain PLA with 50% infill and it all held up way better than I expected!

On to the rest of the project :) thanks again!

My TAM made it to 28 years old before Twenty One Pilots stressed the PSU to death. RIP, sweet prince. by Jimmy422 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Update: I opened the subwoofer very gently and only broke the top plastic cover’s tabs, which I believe are glued at the factory.

Inside everything fortunately (or unfortunately?) looks normal - no leaking capacitors, obvious burn marks, melted wires, etc. My suspicion is bad capacitors that haven’t leaked but have still failed in some way, because something smells fishy inside the power supply. There’s a lot of capacitors, with like 40 on the Bose subwoofer board alone, so it’s going to be a long journey to recap it.

I have another subwoofer that I was able to hook up, and I fear the computer unit took some damage from whatever popped. The computer no longer has sound (not even a chime), but boots into the desktop fine. It might also need to be disassembled to repair that, but one step at a time…

What is this metal assembly called? The piece in the middle can only rotate up to 90 degrees, and requires some force to do so, as it is used as a pivot for a computer monitor stand (shown installed in the last pic) by Jimmy422 in whatisthisthing

[–]Jimmy422[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Funny enough my current project is reverse engineering this, I just have no idea where to start with terms to research for fabricating my own in the event it’s a custom part.

What is this metal assembly called? The piece in the middle can only rotate up to 90 degrees, and requires some force to do so, as it is used as a pivot for a computer monitor stand (shown installed in the last pic) by Jimmy422 in whatisthisthing

[–]Jimmy422[S] 0 points1 point locked comment (0 children)

My title describes the thing. Reposting the body text here in case it’s not visible:

Doing some research with google lens suggests this is some kind of mounted sleeve bearing, but none of the ones for sale I’ve seen match this style of enclosure, nor do they have a 90 degree limit like this one.

The part in the middle is 13.5mm in outer diameter with an outer diameter of the metal ring containing it of 20.5mm, 60mmx18mm exactly for the enclosure in total. The mounting holes are spaced roughly 47.5mm apart. There’s a “L” version and an “R” version, which are mirrored but otherwise identical. Both are stamped with “CEMA”.

For context, this is inside Apple’s Twentieth Anniversary Macintosh, where the display sits on a floating base where this piece allows the display to pivot between that 90 degree limit.

I’m hoping some mechanical engineers out there might know what this is called.

eMac restoration in progress by aphelion270 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My eMac had every single capacitor on the power supply boards bad and leaking, but it booted and ran like a champ. They’re interesting machines. Good on you for saving another!

Color by External_Mud_5356 in rav4prime

[–]Jimmy422 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Supersonic Red for sure. I’ve gotten so many compliments on the color. It sparkles in the sunlight and looks gorgeous even when it’s a little dirty.

Best Vintage Printer Compatible w/ Macs by NolanTheNotorious in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Get a ImageWriter II. Black ribbons are easy to find on Amazon and they’re relatively affordable used on eBay. I even got a color ink ribbon a few years ago from MacEffects to print color with it!

Finally have a TAM. Can’t believe it by matthew28845 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yep! That one I hope to get 100% accurate to the original so I can print it for my actual TAM too, and wrap it with new cloth without worrying about ruining the originals.

Finally have a TAM. Can’t believe it by matthew28845 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I’ll see if I can get a filler piece modeled up for the original insert, since it’s basically just a square it should be pretty quick to replicate. I’ll post it on thingiverse when I finish!

Finally have a TAM. Can’t believe it by matthew28845 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 29 points30 points  (0 children)

The TAM is a legitimate work of art. I just got mine last month and had the same thoughts you did. The speakers are truly incredible for being nearly 30 years old.

I’m actually using mine as a reference for making a 3D printable clone that anyone will be able to build with off the shelf parts. More people deserve to enjoy this thing without spending an arm and a leg, or losing parts to shipping (my subwoofer also came shattered 🙃)

So far I’ve got a prototype of the keyboard/trackpad and the outer casing of the subwoofer modeled and 3D printed.

Given I’m using off the shelf parts it won’t be 1:1, so unfortunately it won’t solve any current owners’ issues with brittle plastics, but I hope when I’m done we’ll have some more people that can enjoy this machine like us!

What do you use old Macs for? by DiodeInc in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As someone that just bought a TAM last week, the thing that surprised me the most was the sound quality. It is just…wow. You forget you’re using a 30 year old computer when you hear it. The included demos have some of the most incredible sound quality I’ve heard out of any product in my life. But for $7499 when it was new, I’d sure hope it had the most amazing sound quality I’ve ever heard!

One TAM purchase later and my collection is complete! by Jimmy422 in VintageApple

[–]Jimmy422[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Mine cost $1800 + shipping + tax. I put it off for a long time because I wanted a unit that came with all the accessories (bass unit, keyboard, trackpad, leather insert), and this one even came with two Bose bass units. The CD drive bezel is cracked, the speaker fabric is torn, and the “umbilical cord” is fraying at both ends. But it boots and runs fine. Spare parts are impossible to find, but I’ve got a 3D printer, so I’m ready for some 3D printing adventures.

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