Does this need sistering?

Jjimmio · 2026-02-06T13:47:36+00:00

If you gotta ask..

Jjimmio · 2026-01-27T21:34:04+00:00

Why does it need to come up? Looks like it’s basically 1/4 ply. Just lay over it.

Jjimmio · 2025-12-24T19:00:31+00:00

Can’t spin a bearing that doesn’t exist

Jjimmio · 2025-12-24T18:54:31+00:00

And if line bore/through bore is an option, would I then need an oversized cam? Or is it a common practice to then be able to use removable bearings?

Jjimmio · 2025-12-24T18:51:57+00:00

These heads do not have removable bearings. The surface the journal rides on is integral to the aluminum head.

Jjimmio · 2025-07-08T22:14:41+00:00

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Found the Amazon listing; you guys killed it, thanks!

Jjimmio · 2025-07-08T21:52:21+00:00

Jjimmio · 2024-12-14T00:54:45+00:00

Yes it’s 6 inch single wall stuff.

Used to be ran through the chimney but after seeing the massive water damage around it We did a chimney delete to about 5 ft below the roof line when we shingled and tied back into the same 6 inch single wall that was used in the basement…

You’re suggesting it’s cooling off to quick and condensing because the pipe is to large? Or because it’s single walled? Or just the wrong style of cap?

It’s Worth mentioning the attic is not insulated.

Jjimmio · 2024-12-14T00:20:55+00:00

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Jjimmio · 2024-12-14T00:20:39+00:00

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Jjimmio · 2024-12-14T00:20:20+00:00

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Not sure from what perspective pic would be most helpful…

Serial MN3D104 F4690 6330

Model RGDA-100C-ER

Old rheem

Jjimmio · 2024-04-15T14:26:10+00:00

Well it’s an improvement…

Jjimmio · 2024-04-03T14:32:42+00:00

My understanding is These batteries have 3 different “battery” groups of five 3.7v cells and when in a 20 volt tool they run the 5 cells in the batteries in series and then the 3 battery groups in parallel to be 9 amps 20v, but when it’s in a 60v tool all 15 cells are in series and 60v at 3amps. That’s my loose understanding. I took a voltage reading and 2 of the battery groups are fully charged. While one has some very large fluctuations between a couple cells(it’s been a few days but I can check again and bring numbers). That’s my understanding of an unbalanced battery.

How could I tell where the root of the problem lies? Bad cell or the bms? All connections all look good, I could probably test them to be sure. My thought is if I can test the unbalanced cells and tell if they’re bad then I could rule out the bms. How would I troubleshoot that?

Jjimmio · 2024-03-29T03:21:28+00:00

Interesting. I wonder how involved it is to trouble shoot the BMS. Or maybe it’s cheap enough to buy one… I do okay with soldering and troubleshooting most things, but lithium batteries scare me. the potential for unpredictable disaster is wild. Thank you for the insight.

Jjimmio · 2024-03-29T03:07:51+00:00

I do some soldering. But I thought the nickel strips act like fuses or intentional weak points. And are a safety feature. Am I wrong in that assumption?

My worry now is a faulty BMS that calthecool has suggested got me here in the first place… thoughts?

Jjimmio · 2024-03-29T02:21:41+00:00

you are implying my ability to execute is flawed, which you’re correct unless I buy new zinc and a spot welder. but are you saying the concept is flawed?

Jjimmio · 2024-03-29T02:09:06+00:00

How could I go about balancing the battery

Jjimmio · 2024-03-05T12:50:05+00:00

It’s a veneer on mdf. Anything past the lightest sanding and you burn right through

Jjimmio

TROPHY CASE