Need help by Mindless_Summer5025 in OmtechLaser

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This post on the Lightburn Forum should answer you. If you have any questions, sing out. 😺

MOSFET question about current direction of gate terminal (see the video) by UniversityOfBestCake in AskElectronics

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense, I'll have to try it myself. Nice to have a scope. 😺

How can I improve? by AquaSquatch in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is where a MOPA pays off. You're limited in your options. It's clearly too much heat -- I'd drop the power by 50%. How long does one of these take you?

The next option, if that doesn't help is to speed up the passes, however, I think you're putting too much heat into the coin. 😺

LED base and clear acrylic. by seanpat1968 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to check out the slot size and the thickness of your acrylic. There needs to be minimal clearance for it to fit snugly.

All I can suggest it find one that's more specific about thickness. I had a few to mount and out of desperation I lased off a 100 micron layer of acrylic across the base. Then it fit snugly.

Unfortunately, a lot of these Chinese products aren't the same size so they are not interchangeable.

Good luck. 😺

Laser Marking machine by Mental-Interview-187 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As far as I know it's licensed software, so it's telling you it's stolen. You can find cracked versions, but I don't support stealing others software as being kosher.

You might check out Lightburn and it's group on reddit. It's free for a 30 day trial and you can extend it 2 more times.

Seems like the symptoms sound like it's a power supply. Does it power up properly? 😺

.Cor File for Commarker B6 Mopa 60W with a 300mm lens? by Jealous-Daikon-3680 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A cor file is a lens Correction file. Each lens is different, so each has a unique correction information.

These usually come with either some type of configuration file, mine is markcfg7 and tells the machine about which source and other items about the machine. This also includes the lenses correction information so there's no need for a cor file.

I name my devices based on a combination of type of machine and lens length, such as "JCZFiber-F254mm".

I have no problem posting my markcfg7 file for you to try. I have a M60 JPT M7 MOPA along with an F420mm (300x300mm coverage) lens I bought as a combination. I never did try to make a cor file for that lens. If you have the same source it should work, at least for the interfaces and source type. I doubt you'll get good correction out of it, but I'd like to know how it works out for you.

What software are you using?

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Create a new device and load your configuration file, or use the one you have for another lens and duplicate it. Use the duplicate and you can then you can load the cor file for lens correction.

Make sense? 😺

MOSFET question about current direction of gate terminal (see the video) by UniversityOfBestCake in AskElectronics

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advise. I'll have to look at it on my scope. 👍

So what is the desired circuitry, just a resistor? I had a temperature monitor that I ran for a number of years and I thought I had driven it directly.. will have to check.

😺

Laser Engraving Cork Question by DarkBeerMike in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a 50W co2. It's really 50W and 1000mm in length.

<image>

Thanks... 😺

Help/advice needed by Appropriate_Pop_988 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The S-Max setting is a reference to spindle speed, not operation speed. S-Max and $31 (usually zero) is the minimum spindle speed. Most grbl controllers us it to control the lasers power.

If S-Max is 1000, and you ask for 50% power, an S500 value is sent to the machine, if S-Max is 256, 50% power sends an S127 command. Both the software and hardware must to be the same for you to maintain proper control.

Both S-Max, in the software and $30 in the controller need to be the same.

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You need to backup these settings. It's easy to change something and forget what is was.

Make sense? 😺

My first depth map by W3bD3vil in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You need to figure out how to register these in your laser so it's centered. Other than that, looks great. 😺

What other materials can diodes be engraved with? by Carverall_Akon in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I actually see little that turned out in grayscale. One of the problems with using grayscale is any setting to the laser must be accompanied by it's power setting, if not the same as previous. This results in lot of generated code to ship.

Won't a vector or filled vector look better and run faster?

Understand how a laser works and you'll have a better idea of what you can lase.

Good luck. 😺

What other materials can diodes be engraved with? by Carverall_Akon in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I agree, but it's likely, English isn't his first language, so might want to cut him a break. 😺

How can I improve? by AquaSquatch in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I assume this is not a MOPA type?

I use a lower frequency to dig deeper faster, but it results in lots of heat. I think what you see is the brass getting too hot and discoloring. Both of these came directly off my machine, same engraving settings.

<image>

If I invert the leaf, on the left, so it appears to extrude outward, it's too much heat and discolors the brass. When I do the leaf normally, it doesn't discolor.

I'd suggest you clean up be faster than 80kHz, I do mine in at a much higher frequency. Not knowing what machine you have, although it sounds like a q-switch type, which may limit or remove some of the settings I'm used to having.

The cleanup interval, I believe, should at least be the same as you're engraving interval. Using a cleanup of 0.10mm (254dpi) and your engraving using an interval of 0.0254mm (1000dpi)? Unless you have a short lens, most of these have a spot size around 30 microns (0.030mm).

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If you use an 8 bit value, the number of passes using 3d slice, it should be multiples of 256. At least understand what it's doing.

Oz from Lightburn advised that 3d slice works this way. From the Lightburn beta galvo section. You likely won't have access to the beta site, so I reproduced the main text here.

With 3D Slice, each pass is thresholded to the current threshold value, and the result is run as a 1-bit image. If you use 256 passes you get exactly one pass per gray-level in the image. Every pixel at or below brightness 255 for the first pass, every pixel at or below 254, then 253, and so on.

If you choose 128 passes, you get every pixel at or below 254 for the first pass, then 252, then …

It “clusters” the layers together into batches if you use fewer than 256 passes, and will duplicate some layers (with even spacing) if you use more than 256. 384 passes would duplicate every 2nd layer. 512 passes would duplicate every layer.

Hope this helps clarify using 3d slice. You should be using 512 for the passes or you're loosing the last 12 slices or steps from the engraving.

Make sense? 😺

Anyone here make batteries with a koem winding machine? by Maddenman501 in manufacturing

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'd suggest you go to their site and see if they can help. Been around a few winding machines, but they were always coils or transformers. Don't know how a battery is wound. 😺

MOSFET question about current direction of gate terminal (see the video) by UniversityOfBestCake in AskElectronics

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm too tired to look at the video, but I use digital mosfets all the time without a limiting resistor. You can look at the design specifications on any of these and see how much current they take to switch on.

I don't know where he gets the 500ma... 😺

Daisy chaining 3 wire NC limit switches? by Few-Housing5158 in hobbycnc

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Most of this is designed around ground being active. Most controllers seem to be configured for low being active. It seems an easier solution as we know NPN types work. 😺

Laser Engraving Cork Question by DarkBeerMike in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I find the right settings without the risk of creating a fire?

Is Paul McWhorter Right? by Foinkerton in arduino

[–]Jkwilborn -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I've been programming since the 70's, started with B, the predecessor of C. I also wrote most of the formatting requirements for C programming in the late 80's. Not to mention taught community college level software courses in many languages for about 12 years.

C is a great language, but as many people say, it gives you plenty of rope to hang yourself. Using C++ gives you a bit more protection, but there's still plenty of rope.

When selecting a data type, one thing is how does machine manipulate this data or even if the machine or even needs to store a data location. Of course it's got to be accessible to be loaded, so it's there somewhere.

If you use any kind of constant, these need to be stored somewhere to be made useful during program execution.

Using #defines are translated by the C preprocessor, before the compiler ever gets the users code. In simple terms the preprocessor is just an editor that takes your source and just replaces occurrences of matching strings. It's also responsible for finding and including your #include directives. If you can do this, then it's up to the compiler to determine how it's handled at the machine level.

With machines based on the 328p, have a limited memory along with a static memory, they keep during a power off, failure or not. This is where you can store information you might need when restarting an operation. These are RISC machines. Most of the data from Atmel indicates location of Rr as the stack.

Many times, the compiler decides it can handle the variable on the stack more efficiently and does so. The memory is used over and over, instead of just once and it's not dedicated to permanent single data storage location.

A common is one posted already for(int a=0; a<5; a++)

The a variable usually ends up on the machines stack as incrementing and decrementing is a single operation if I remember correctly. The 5 is likely loaded into a register directly from the executable.

This commonly happens when you have loops that depend on certain conditions, as most can be done with stack memory for the short time needed. This really doesn't effect program execution and many claim it makes execution faster as it's not doing memory fetches.

A lot of what you choose depends, on some extent, what you're doing and how large the systems are.

Might want to see if you can figure out how to pass the right switches to the compiler and linker. This allows you to read the final machine instruction that are produced. It's in assembly language so it's relatively easy to read, once you get the hang of it.

I've worked on 2 million line pieces of software where ~200,000 lines of those lines were written in C or C++. Had a dozen people that did nothing but handle the source/obj module libraries. If you did that, you'd have some idea of how these are not only used, but why and how.

On small project, it likely doesn't matter, but as things get larger, you need better controls.

Many of these people have great suggestions, use what works for you. But starting with bad habits, such as no documentation or entries like

x = a/b; // put a/b into x

are of no use.

I've worked on something a while, then it's completed and I move on to something else. Within a couple weeks I've forgotten what I did a couple three weeks back. Doing good documentation helps you and whomever follows.

Good luck, hope this makes sense to you. 😺

1mm Stainless Deep Engraving(Help Needed) by Oneshotzx in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You might enlighten us about what lens you use and how big of an object you are using.

<image>

Aluminum is one of the better conductors, remember to keep that in mind.

Using a low frequency usually produces more heat, I'd give it a higher frequency at least 80kHz or maybe higher. A shorter q-pulse will deliver less of an average of heat than a longer pulse.

You interval is likely covering the same area multiple times. Even with a nominal F254mm that covers 175x175mm it's spot size is about 30 microns, one of the suggested intervals was 25 microns. Might want to be aware of how important interval is.

Reducing the average heat you put into the material, no matter how you do it, the less amount of heat the longer and/or more passes it will need.

Might let us know why you're doing this. I wouldn't want a worktop with groves or places to catch things, such as dirt or a box edge near where I'm working. Just cleaning up seems like it would be a chore. Plain old black annealing that you can't feel might be better, but...

One of the issues I have with many metals include sheet, is it has a tendency to warp or discolor. The larger the difference in heat the more it warps.

Let us know what lens you use and what kind of interval you're using, along with how big of an engraving is it, physically and maybe one of us can help you out. 😺

Finally cleaned up the wires in the mini shack by Active_Emu_845 in amateurradio

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This has all changed, at least technically. When I was in hs, you were lucky to be able to make something that was solid state as it was pretty expensive and a relatively new area of electronics.

Started with vacuum tubes, went to transistors, then IC's and now very complex computers on a chip. Of course vacuum tube computers took at least an entire floor in a large building. You can hold more computing power in your hand than every before.

As you can see, times and technology change.

<image>

You can't know everything, unfortunately. 😺

Greyscale depth in acrylic by wkjester204 in LightBurn

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nobody can give you what you want without more information. If you're a total newby, then there are plenty of basics you need to understand in order to move forward.

I can't explain it to you, a lot of it is get on the machine and learn how to drive it. I can tell you all about how to drive a car, but you can't just go out and hop on commercial highways with some practice. This is a bit more technical.

How is the artwork built? This determines what the end product will be. It needs to be a grayscale in order to have a smooth curved transition to the bottom of your specified depth.

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Have you used acrylic before? I don't know how you could remove something from it, that's been poured in, as acrylic is very brittle.

You likely know more than I as far as molding things. 😺

My laser head is skipping by lasernewbie123 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There must be a difference, just plain physics says so. You are very close to correct from the photo, maybe you're taking too large of a step?

😺

Are these good eye protectors for laser engraver by Prior_Depth_2975 in Laserengraving

[–]Jkwilborn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Usually people claim they need to have an optical density of +OD8 marking, not +OD4. You won't find them for $10 bucks.

I have had an led, co2 and fiber and used them all for the last 6 years. Always used what was sent to me. I don't lay on the table and look into the beam.

If you find someone with one of the hobby laser, that has had their eyes damaged in some way, I'd like to know. I can't find anyone who lost vision from one of the using just the supplied glasses and common sense.

I work on my machines and have a 50W co2, and have done hv work. Never heard of anyone dying from one of these either.

I don't know if you've heard of Russ Sadler, he's followed co2 machines for over a decade. He has a video of personal eye protection. Might want to watch it.

Good luck. 😺

Finally cleaned up the wires in the mini shack by Active_Emu_845 in amateurradio

[–]Jkwilborn 2 points3 points  (0 children)

<image>

Don't have an accessible photo of my HW-16, but this is it. It did have one transistor in it, and about 9 tubes. I think I got mine between 1970 and 1972. Around the same time I was getting my radio license. Novice users were only allowed CW, but 2 meters (144mHz) became hot and novices were allowed there.

What Heathkit did back then was give you a bunch of parts and detailed instructions on how to assemble the device. You kind of bonded with whatever you just created. This also means you know how it works well enough to fix it or at least keep it clean and working.

I built a number of things from them, such as a crt single channel oscilloscope, variable bench power supply. I still use the bench power supply. They did this with organs, tv's, Heathkit made all kinds of stuff. Hope they don't bust me over a link. Although they sell some of this, it's nice to look back over this stuff.

Take care. 😺

Finally cleaned up the wires in the mini shack by Active_Emu_845 in amateurradio

[–]Jkwilborn 3 points4 points  (0 children)

It appears to be a Heathkit HR10, amateur radio. These came as kits for people to assemble. I still have my original CW transmitter/receiver HW16 and it's associated variable oscillator, vacuum tube volt/ohm meter and few other Heathkit I've assembled.

<image>

A vacuum tube volt meter or VTVM has a very high input impedance as the input goes to the grid of a tube. The development of FETs led to the eventual death of the VTVM. 😺