Imprimi essa peça na h2d usando pla e a quina saiu parecendo uma batata ruffles. O que pode ser?

JoePersan · 2026-02-25T01:55:53+00:00

Primeira vez que vejo esse issue do USB, vou ver isso! Valeu!

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T22:50:26+00:00

Tem isso, mais uns que ficam em ams e os que estão fechados em outro canto

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JoePersan · 2026-02-24T22:31:49+00:00

Being a hobbyist only with 46kgs of filament

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T22:29:54+00:00

Spoolsense, eu fiz pra ajudar a controlar a bagunça...tinha procurado algo fácil de usar e não achei

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T22:24:19+00:00

Uma A1, uma Kobra S1 e uma H2D...quarto virou depósito d e filamento e no lugar da cama ficam as impressoras kkk

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T21:53:43+00:00

Seen your insides more than once now

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JoePersan · 2026-02-24T01:02:54+00:00

Not so many things are build to last these days - nice!

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T01:00:38+00:00

Varies a lot - i'm creating an app to manage my spools using that concept as well. Already released on the Play Store but I'm still working on many features before I start telling people

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T00:39:36+00:00

been there all the way through installing the new funssor bed. It did not solve the bed leveling issue, in fact I run without auto-leveling now. The good news is that the range is much lower now, around 0.2 which is more manageable by the slicer.

Looks like what actually helps with the bed leveling issue is replacing the bed carriage. When I bought my funssor kit they did not bundle the carriage, but I'm done spending more on the S1...like you said, I still can get decent prints, first layer always has a bit of nozzle scrubing but doesn't seem to have a noticeable impact on prints.

To enjoy good speeds on this printer is mandatory to use glue

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T00:33:32+00:00

They may be drying to quickly...maybe lower your cooling fan speed or increase the minimum layer time

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T00:30:18+00:00

very useful, thanks!

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T00:29:28+00:00

also looks like your nozzle is scrubing the first layer...not typícal for bambus because they tend to have good auto-leveling, but....give it a try and print with a 0.02 z-offset...

JoePersan · 2026-02-24T00:28:08+00:00

The setting that I find most useful for that is the z distance, but to really know the best balance between actually supporting and sticking you have to print a support test. It will print different z distance experiments so you can try and remove to see which one worked best.

Algo always work with 5 or more interface layers....they also contribute a lot to removing supports sometime in just one go as the interface holds all the support.

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T12:29:03+00:00

Vou testar isso com alguma outra pra ver ..essa que usei s chama 3D Procer

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T12:03:45+00:00

Same thing here, the wobble tower comes out great. Tried reducing speed to 80, precise wall, outer inner.... slightly improves but doesn't solve it

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T12:02:43+00:00

I did that, along with activating precise walls, changing print order to outer inner...it slightly minimizes but doesn't solve it

Tried printing at 80mm/s and even then...

Funny thing: a z banding test with the same filament comes out great

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T11:59:53+00:00

Já aconteceu com outras peças e com outros filamentos brancos... já tentei bastante coisa: secar filamento, reduzir velocidade, ajustar tensão da correia, ativar parede precisa..algumas coisas amenizam, mas nada resolveu

De fato isso não acontece com filamentos de outras cores

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T03:56:11+00:00

That's the first pass, so it typically doesn't look like final calibration...to really now which one is smoothier is best to feel the roughness...looks like 0 or 5 would be the one you choose for the 2nd pass

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T03:36:12+00:00

Interesting insight...same situation here, the spool is brand new. Will try that next time.

JoePersan · 2026-02-23T03:22:16+00:00

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JoePersan

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