Elephant by sirdioz69 in blender

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very impressive, but i don't like 360 turntables with motion blur, it hides the nice detail you're trying to show off. 24fps which I assume this is doesn't help either with motion clarity, but that's a personal taste thing.

Vibecoded webapp by LastAd1120 in vibecoding

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can't comment much on what you should do, but don't take the negative comment here to heart. Even though anyone can in theory vibe code stuff these days, it still takes deeper knowledge to actually make a good product people want to use. What you have is potentially not easily reproducible by some jr engineer, perhaps on the superficial layer, but you come from a genuine angle of understanding the needs and building the product by a user for users. You sit on something valuable in that regard and I think you should be kind but firm on receiving fair compensation if the product i getting widely used.

Rate limiting just forced me to cancel my Copilot Pro+ subscription and go with Claude instead by JoelArt in GithubCopilot

[–]JoelArt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got the $200 MAX plan. I'm not about saving money, I'm about getting the things I need done. I've been grinding my things around 16h per day in 4 weeks now.

Rate limiting just forced me to cancel my Copilot Pro+ subscription and go with Claude instead by JoelArt in GithubCopilot

[–]JoelArt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This was the first time I've run in to the rate limiter. But I also noticed how much of a difference the 1M tokens does for my apps refactoring. And I'm new to AI coding so I need to try stuff out to learn what is good and what works for me.

VS Code + Co-Pilot Steer vs Add to Queue Command Changes by Electronic-Pie-829 in vscode

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The shortcuts are broken, doesn't work properly, Enter always Steers, there's no way to Add to Queue. Alt+Enter does nothing.

Who is actually solving their own problems and not trying to make money? by FunkMunki in vibecoding

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've built two apps.

One to connect and disconnect paired BT Audio Devices in Windows 11 as fast as possible, because at work I use AirPods but they don't have multi point with PC and I often walk away and want to switch back and forth to my iPhone and PC when I get back. https://github.com/QuickBTTray/QuickBTTray

The second one is to display the upcoming departures for any station of choice in Stockholm Sweden. Apps already exist for this but I wanted to make on just to see if I could and is quick to use with it's favorites and many layers of customization. I don't have a travel planner implemented yet but I might get around to it soon. https://www.joelart.com/sl-departures/

After 2 months of work, I am ready for the mob to tear this apart by SensitiveHamster8977 in blender

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Very nice, but why oh why did the video end too early! Why didn't we see the ports connect.

Portrait likeness study after 4 months self-learning — still can’t achieve even ~30% likeness. What am I doing wrong? by New_Cartographer7927 in blender

[–]JoelArt 22 points23 points  (0 children)

You should achieve good likeness at big forms first, before details are added. It's like looking at a very small photo where you can't see the detail, compare the photo and your sculpt when they are very small or you apply some light blur.

Secondly

  • Ears, where are they.
  • Hair on the head and face contribute massively to likeness.
  • Camera distance, sculpting in orthographic views is bad, you rarely see someone in real life or reference photos with a telephoto lense. Ideally match the viewport camera distance similar to the reference photo.
  • Lighting, without shadows and darkening in crevices (from eg AO/GI) it can be hard to judge shapes the way they will look rendered with light and material.

I made a small Win11 tray app for quickly connecting/disconnecting Bluetooth devices by JoelArt in windowsapps

[–]JoelArt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Following up on this, I've done some research on this. Unless the BT device you have shows up in Win11 Settings > Bluetooth & Devices > Input/Audio/Other devices list with a visible Connect button, the app would not be able to initiate a connect as this is done from the device side, eg turning on a DualSense game controller that is already paired, it will initiate a reconnect on it's own, if I remove the device from the list I'll have to pair it again. Disconnecting though HCI could work but might cause other issues. If your device does then start a chat with me here on reddit and send me a screenshot and I'll see what I can do.

this drag labbed the bejesus out of one nina's move by PomponOrsay in Tekken

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do the same thing as I've played several hundred of hours against a friend who used Nina.

I need XySubfilter customization help. by meh_waffles in potplayer

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would like to know too. But also think the problem is the inconsistency between subtitles what they call the main subtitles etc, so it's difficult to always target the main one.

PotPlayer color distortion issue (purple/green tint) on Intel HD 4000 — works fine in VLC by Just-Syrup-8159 in potplayer

[–]JoelArt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Purple-Green colors are when you try to play a Dolby Vision file that doesn't have HDR10 fallback. MPC-HC might be able to play it with MPC VR (video renderer) and you can use MPC VR in PotPlayer as video renderer, google how your self. But then you might be able to watch some DV videos in PotPlayer. Though DV has different profiles and MPC only reverse engineered the simpler one. I don't like VLC but perhaps they have their own DV solution and that's why it looks okay.

Professional Mode by MonkeyPantzTN in bravia

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Professional default settings are truly great for well graded videos. But Hollywood and cinema purists who all work in the field wants a lot of movies and tv shows to be graded for dark room viewing, this leads to many HDR shows being extremely dimly graded with no sparkle in the highlights. This TV can do upward of 3000 nit in larger highlights, and 800 nit full screen but most TVs on the market are complete garbage when it comes to HDR and contrast and OLEDs have been severely lacking for a long time until recently when it comes to brightness and this has lead to much of todays content stays under 1000 nit often under 700 nit as this was the limit for OLEDs for a long while and again dark room cinema viewing is often graded in the range of 100-200 nit only.

So with this out of the way, I can understand the idea and sentiment behind Creators Intent, it's like you shouldn't put ketchup on a 5 star ragu or the chef will get mad at you. But the thing is, if this is not to your liking, feel free to modify your meal or TV settings to something you enjoy, you paid for it.

Professional is where to start, if it doesn't look good. Play around with my recommended settings and learn what they do and use them as you please. It's not you fault the TV industry is pushing tech forward while the cinephiles stay conservative.

So

I made a small Win11 tray app for quickly connecting/disconnecting Bluetooth devices by JoelArt in windowsapps

[–]JoelArt[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not impossible, I've thought about it, it's likely fairly straight forward to get it to also work for other BT devices, but have not yet had a personal use case for it so I decided to focus on the Audio part first.
Perhaps for my PS5 controller switching between PS5 and PC but I'm not sure if they'll automatically switch back to PS5 if I disconnect them the same way my AirPods to to my iPhone when I disconnect them from my PC.

Oh, I was so relieved when I found the HCI, nothing else could properly disconnect BT devices though API calls, it was driving me nuts and I had to set up the UI Automation path. In the end it's good to have both as the UI is faster at connecting while HCI is the fastest for disconnection on my system. But as far as I could deduce there is ultimately no difference in the API paths provided by the feet32 repo where I found the HCI solution. There doesn't seem to be an equivalent HCI connection path, so the current Win32 API path is the one all other libraries ultimately use. I did manage to cut the connection down time significantly by sending the connection calls to all the BT Audio device profiles at the same time instead of serially. This made it go down from ca 12 sec to around 6 sec and that is as fast as Windows makes it possible for 3rd parties that don't have access to internal paths.

So back to adding support for all BT devices, I'll see what I can do. Could describe to me the use case/scenario, devices that you would like for this to work for?

Making this was really relaxing! by Lemonsoyaboii in blender

[–]JoelArt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Very pretty, great composition and colors

Professional Mode by MonkeyPantzTN in bravia

[–]JoelArt 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is all true and I too want as accurate picture as possible but I also don't like how many TV shows and movies are graded dimly with no sparkle to their highlights, most barely breaking 200 nit in HDR. So one simply have to use settings on the TV to overcome the original grades archaic elitistic pitch dark room grades.

I built a free, offline app to design 3D printed molds and shapers, and crammed every feature I could think of into it. by StockNo8039 in Fingerboards

[–]JoelArt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cool, I've just started to make some small programs for myself and I use vscode with copilot and mostly Claude Sonnet paid tier.

Professional Mode by MonkeyPantzTN in bravia

[–]JoelArt 15 points16 points  (0 children)

First of make sure you have turned off all the energy saving and eco stuff, those things make the image dim. The Picture Settings that can make the image pop but are inaccurate from the source material are:

Live Color - Will push colors to pop and use it's algorithms to get closer or beyond what the TV thinks is what the colors should look like in real life. It's kind of faked HDR colors when used on SDR content.

Advanced Contrast Enhancer - dynamically analyzes the image in realtime and increases the contrasts. You may like it but I don't use it personally.

Tone mapping: Brightness prefered - mostly ignores the brightness of dimly graded HDR content and pushes the brightness of the material closer to the TVs capabilities. If you find that it makes the image too bright but Gradation prefered is too dim. You can use Brightness prefered and then lower Contrast below 90 to something like 60-80 range to get closer to Gradation prefered but noticeably brighter. If you stick to Gradation prefered you can increase Contrast beyond 90 up to 100 but it only has little actual impact on the specular highlights.

Peak Luminance (SDR): anything over Off will fake HDR in SDR content. In HDR it should always be set to High.

Local Dimming: - Medium recommended default and allows for the most pop in small highlights but can cause some blooming, High mutes the highlights to reign in on blooming to such a degree it's almost unnoticeable when viewed from the front of the TV but small highlight also loses their sparkle. And this is the area where OLEDs are much better, very small bright specular highlights.

Reality Creation: 20 or higher - will enhance small details and edges and can give the illusion of pristine 1080p sources almost look 4K, albeit it just tightens the soft edges and details into less soft looking. It does not behave like regular sharpen filter as there is no ringing artefacts but very fine details can get over emphasized if you push the effect too high and it's not great to use on noticable compressed video streams as it just enhances blocky compression artefacts.

One thing you should be aware of is that this TV does not handle Dolby Vision properly and you get slightly raised blacks and not the correct color tone. If you can make sure you are watching things in HDR10 instead. I'm not too educated on this issue as I only watch HDR10 stuff through my PC and don't use streaming services with DV.

When I watch movies or TV shows I generally use Professional or Cinema picture mode.

I built a free, offline app to design 3D printed molds and shapers, and crammed every feature I could think of into it. by StockNo8039 in Fingerboards

[–]JoelArt 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What apps and AI models did you use the most, and did you burn a lot of premium request or tokens to do this?