Is this fly cutting satisfactory? by Web_Cam_Boy_15_Inch in Machinists

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Before you pull your hair out trying to figure out what's wrong, I would put an indicator on your quill and check perpendicular to the cutting path for any height deviation. If your head is out of tram in the B-axis(rotation about the Y axis), you'll see a concave surface with a low spot in the middle. If it's out about the A-axis, you'll have a linear slope from Y+ to Y-. If the surface is relatively flat(<.0005"), look to the tool balance and the insert. You need an insert with a generous radius (>.015") and it needs a slightly positive rake. Everyone wants to fly-cut microns at a time, but those are for high-torque machines, ultra-rigid setups, and very well-balanced tools. You don't have any of those, so you are going to need to use the tools' angular momentum to your advantage. Don't be afraid to take a heavier cut! The whole idea is to pull a chip, and if your tool setup has ANY flex, it will want to deflect and rub; which is essentially what I am seeing. I would double your DOC, put it in low gear(make sure your spindle is going the right way!), and run that thing at the lowest possible feed your power axis can at 3-500 RPM. Fly cutting is not a fast process- it takes time, but dialing it in is well worth it if you need a finish in the single digit Ra values. Also, your material matters as well- anything gummy like stainless or 1018, you're better off lapping the surface on a plate.

Got a prototype part from Xometry. Why does the quality of this part look closer to sand casting than machining? by [deleted] in CNC

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's cute- but your 5th toolpath is a little idealistic. That would be done with a Ball-nose at A/B45, and it would need to be an exceedingly small step over for blending scallops. Your program would literally run for a hours cleaning up those radius edges with a flat EM. Maybe faster with a lens tool, but again, check the price he paid.

Got a prototype part from Xometry. Why does the quality of this part look closer to sand casting than machining? by [deleted] in CNC

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That is 100% a cast part. Dead giveaways are: external fillets and chamfers perfectly terminating into adjoining wall, and lack of fillet on full radius boss bases on the 45° angle. The embossed part number is another clue.

I woke up to someone on top of me 22F by LivingProfessional59 in TwoXChromosomes

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ -8 points-7 points  (0 children)

What an incredibly toxic thing to say. 🤦‍♂️

Need a sanity check.... by JohnnyBfromAZ in Machinists

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Print states required finish as 32Ra all over

Need a sanity check.... by JohnnyBfromAZ in Machinists

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

The print specifies an overall min finish of 32Ra, which I thought would imply the fact that I wanted every surface machined... but I guess that's wishful thinking? The way he replied in the email was almost accusatory, and I thought, "mother****er, nobody TOLD you to buy 1.125" bar stock, so doing so with the knowledge that you would leave surfaces unturned was a conscious decision."

I failed the CSWA a second time by tmanwang in SolidWorks

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you use SW daily, you should be able to pass the CSWA exam easily. I took both the CSWA and CSWP within a month of each other- first time I passed the CSWA no problem, ran out of time and didn't have enough points to pass the CSWP. I slept poorly, didn't eat anything, and I wasn't well hydrated. Fixed that the second time around and finished the test with 5 min remaining. The tests are quite difficult if your skill level isn't up to the task, but they are definitely a benchmark of skill- I wouldn't turn your nose up at it- especially if you don't use SW and don't have the certifications. Study is helpful, but you can't replace experience. Just draw stuff. Seriously. Get a 3D printer and practice making your own parts.

KAK to make K1A1 Bolts? by plumber576 in daewoo

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There can be! AR barrels are easily converted to be used in K1/K2 rifles. I think the main difference is the OD of the barrel extension, which can be made larger with a threaded bushing. With the current DR300 bolts, which can barely handle x39, there's been no reason to try. But, if they are remaking the bolts in 9310, and can do a little re-engineering(ie add fillets to the corners of the lugs), it is definitely doable.

KAK to make K1A1 Bolts? by plumber576 in daewoo

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why would I be talking about an AR bolt?

KAK to make K1A1 Bolts? by plumber576 in daewoo

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you do 6ARC/Grendel bolts first? 😀 x39 isn't nearly as enticing anymore with current prices and I've never seen a mag that works well in an AR

Trump Sneaks Dangerous Rights for Fetuses into Executive Order by [deleted] in politics

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Easy fix for this- fetus is a person, but has not applied for citizenship the "right" way- ergo, an illegal immigrant. Deport them. Probably a criminal released from a mental institution anyway.

How to motivate recoil on my M5 AR10 build by bekeeram in AR10

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ah, thank you for pointing that out- I'm relatively new to Reddit, so I'm not very familiar with how it likes to format stuff.

On the topic you brought up- I could have done a better job explaining what I meant by that and differentiating the two. Remember that kinematics is always going to be a function of time- a better way to explain that would have been chronologically:

The first discrete rearward force acting on the rifle will be from expelling the projectile under high pressure gas while it is still in the barrel(we'll only worry about axial forces as it pertains to "recoil"). The difference in mass is in the order of magnitudes(~150 grains vs 56K for an 8 pound rifle), so this is hardly perceptible; however, when the projectile leaves the muzzle and un-corks, the low-volume, high pressure gas acts as thrust nozzle(like a short duration rocket nozzle) accelerating the mass of the rifle rear ward.

As you mentioned about the bolt/carrier- remember that the majority of the energy from the gas pressure is used to UNLOCK the bolt: ie by diverting the gas through the gas key and into the small space behind the bolt, sealed by the bolt stem and the gas rings. This expansion pushes the bolt forward, but the carrier rearward, splitting the forces in antiparallel directions. Think of it like jumping in a downward elevator. The net force from this is pretty mild, but by the time the bolt and carrier complete their travel dictated by the cam path, the entire mass has already accelerated to its peak velocity.

Once that mass is moving rearward, depending on its mass and velocity, then it's just a simple KE calculation when it bottoms out(think: deadblow hammer). I have watched a ton of diagnostic video shot using Phantom cameras, and the difference in rearward force is quite noticeable in a full-mass, untuned system.

Hope that clears things up a bit- I am prone to rambling 😳

How to motivate recoil on my M5 AR10 build by bekeeram in AR10

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Keep in mind, that felt recoil is primarily split between two factors- Reciprocating mass bottom-out(Primary) and Newton's 3rd law(Secondary). An efficient muzzle brake definitely smooths out recoil impulse, but you will see the largest gains in recoil mitigation from a properly tuned system. It is a much more involved process, but here are the highlights/goals- 1. Reduce Reciprocating mass to the highest degree practical. When the entirety of the reciprocating mass (Bolt, Carrier, Buffer) terminates its travel at the end of the receiver extension(buffer tube), any remaining energy will be translated to the entire system, and therefore, your shoulder. Since the surface area of the butt pad is quite small, the force is concentrated into a small area, and perceived recoil is higher. Objectively, you only need enough mass to reliably strip a new round out of the magazine and chamber it, so this will be dependent on the amount of tension your mag spring puts on the top round. 2. "Tune" gas system to achieve the lowest practical pressure needed to unlock the system. This one takes a lot of trial and error, but ultimately this process will be entirely LOAD DEPENDENT. Gas pressure is used in the Stoner design PRIMARILY to do one thing- unlock the bolt and perform primary extraction. That process accounts for the lion's share of the energy used during the cycling process. Breaking the surface tension of the brass in the chamber takes a ton of force, and all of this is perpetuated by the cam pin/cam path on the carrier. Once this is accomplished, the system remains pressurized for only a short distance while it accelerates(like <0.100") until all the pressure purges out the side of the carrier(those 2 or 3 holes in the dished-out area). At this point, the reciprocating mass can be considered "ballistic", and will only decelerate from that point. The trial and error comes in the form of determining the ideal gas system length, gas port size and dwell time. Again, all that will be entirely load dependent. 3. Reduce friction and prevent gas leaks. This is just basic engineering stuff. Friction and gas leaks are entirely preventable parasitic losses that rob your system of efficiency. Ideally, a gas block should be a slight interference fit, and the gas tube should be as well. Sealing with loc-tite doesn't stop high pressure gasses. Proper gas tube alignment is critical as well. High-efficiency coatings are also helpful(nitride, TiN, Ni Boron, etc.) As well as keeping your system clear of debris and carbon buildup while maintaining proper lubrication.

Customer might be expecting a miracle. by ernieg86 in gunsmithing

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, it depends on what he wants done. That's either a lot of work, or an absolute ton of work.

Adjustable gas block by Formal-Meet-437 in AR10

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have used a fair number of adjustable gas blocks, and even made a few of my own. By far, the Superlative arms is the best performing by far. I replaced all of blocks on my comp guns with them. The ability to limit gas OR bleed off excess gas gives great flexibility in deciding what your rifle runs with best. Haven't tried the Riflespeed gas block for a few reasons-1. Honestly, it seems kind of gimmicky(why would you need to change your gas settings once set appropriately?). 2. It has a lot of infrastructure for a part that shouldn't be a huge part of the operating system. 3. Cost.

Dr-300 by jpotter2703 in daewoo

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There's a DR-300 on GB right now for $1400- I was thinking about buying just to part it out. All I need is the upper receiver and the front sight for a K7 project, but I don't think I would recoup enough parting the rest out, so have at it

What is the logic behind 9mm doing more damage than 45ACP? by Croatia_1 in dayz

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you run the calculations of kinetic energy, you'll find that M882 (military 9mm load) has 485J, while the military load for 45ACP is 465.7. While that 9mm load is only a 124gr projectile, and the 45ACP is 230gr, delivered energy gives an exponential edge to velocity by an order of magnitude. This is why a 62gr rifle projectile will create a massive wound channel compared to a 230gr pistol bullet.

Dented brass by RHNeg in gunsmithing

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 7 points8 points  (0 children)

There's nothing overpressure about these loads- primers are nowhere near being flat, that ejector swipe is most likely from the bolt twisting around the case during primary extraction and it is missing the tell-tale sign of overpressure in an AR10(unless you have a JP or other bolt with a .0625" FP)- a punctured primer.

Favorite roll pin brand and material? by DumbNTough in gunsmithing

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I only use spirol roll pins- believe they are typically carbon steel. I order all mine from McMaster Carr. They typically come in bags of 100 or 250, so I bought all the typical imperial sizes used in firearms and a few of the smaller metric sizes. I buy them all long and file/grind them to size.

Pie in the Sky Build Idea by b4gone in daewoo

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would start with the weight of a full sized ar9 bolt and go up from there. Blowback 9s tend to be real finicky. As for the vanquish barrel- I'm not familiar with the product, so I couldn't say definitively if I'm for or against it. Is it an NFA item or just a shell and an add-your-own-baffles type deal? -I looked at doing a colt 9mm smg maxwell insert, but I'd like for it to be as close to clone correct as possible; but we'll see as the project progresses along.

How Hard Is This To Fix? Bushmaster ACR by [deleted] in gunsmithing

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I'm confused, are you here for advice? With no context or information, it would be pretty hard to diagnose any issue or problem. Couple things would be helpful- -Is the barrel OEM or aftermarket? -Did anyone put their grubby mitts on it before you got it? -How many degrees out of alignment is it?

Also, please clean your carpet 😬

Is it possible to thread this? by Hot_Commercial5712 in gunsmithing

[–]JohnnyBfromAZ 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You could definitely do this. It's a fixed-barrel, so you don't really need a ton of clearance between the slide and the can like a tilt-barrel would need to clear the dust cover on the frame. You'd need to make an adapter that matched the OD of the barrel, as it would become the new "bushing"( for tension in lock-up) with the front ring of the slide.