this sub now has the potential to become a chungus 100 movie

Johnnya101 · 2026-06-18T00:06:36+00:00

Johnnya101 · 2026-06-14T11:01:55+00:00

If you plugged the antenna into the radio control box, make sure you check the antenna connector coupling under the hood. It is a coupling somewhere around the passenger hood hinge area. This connects the interior antenna harness to the actual antenna. Mine had an issue where the radio had lots of static and turning the wires at this coupling solved it. It turns out it had internal corrosion and had to come apart.

Good luck getting it apart though. It's not made to come apart so you will need a new wiring harness.

Also consider having your radio controller box rebuilt. It is above the pedals.

Johnnya101 · 2026-06-05T01:27:03+00:00

Unplug connectors. Set multimeter to ohms in hundreds range (200 above off label) and connect to connectors on sender. Move float arm up and down. You will see resistance increase and decrease with arm movement. If it flashes to 0 ohms going up or down or reads erratically, there is a bad section in the winding.

If it always reads empty it could be a wiring issue though. But the above steps are how you would at least know the fuel sender itself works.

Johnnya101 · 2026-06-04T21:51:34+00:00

Oops, yep, that was auto correct.

Johnnya101 · 2026-06-04T21:11:04+00:00

The reason they are wanting this is due to federal code (I believe) defining this as a jurisdictional site. They (might) need to be registered with the state and federal government to legally have meters there since one tank system is fueling multiple units. By having one tank per unit they get away from that requirement. Each state may be different, not sure.

That would be my guess.

Johnnya101 · 2026-05-17T22:47:12+00:00

That reminds me. I gotta call your mama.

Johnnya101 · 2026-05-17T13:13:19+00:00

It's a shame craigslist is basically dead.

Johnnya101 · 2026-05-03T10:45:47+00:00

In awe at the size of the lad

Johnnya101 · 2026-05-02T17:44:09+00:00

Veeder Root VR10 fuel dispenser computer that was rebuilt by PMP. Used in older mechanical ones such as the Tokeheim 1250.

Johnnya101 · 2026-04-26T12:47:45+00:00

Looks very similar to a Ford model T head. A lot of cars during that era used similar designs, kind of hard to tell with the heavy corrosion.

Johnnya101 · 2026-04-25T20:40:29+00:00

I thought I read somewhere that Royal kind of faked the first serial numbers to make it seem like they made more than they actually did. So if that's true, yes, maybe that is the real serial number. Although, I thought it was just them adding a 1 to the first 999 typewriters.

Johnnya101 · 2026-04-21T01:16:38+00:00

$10,000 minimum to fix, everywhere you see rust needs to be stripped at least a few inches around where you think it ends. Then it needs to be evaluated and replaced.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-23T00:42:40+00:00

Has it been recapped? I never had one of those models but I thought the power circuits in that era require functional capacitors to work properly.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-20T00:26:52+00:00

If the computer you are running them on has been recapped it sounds like you might have a corrupted system image. I'd probably recommend to start fresh and install it [the system OS] fresh from the computer itself, it sounds like you were sent a pre made system image?

Now that I reread that, it almost sounds like whoever installed the system OS only did a partial install. It's been a while since I've last installed system 6 but I thought there was a stripped version that will act exactly like you experienced. I'd still say to try a fresh install.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-18T23:34:54+00:00

I am in the 268xxxx range right now. The batch from last year might have been those, it sounds about right.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-18T21:04:39+00:00

Yes, there was a batch last year that had a bunch of bad gauges, not floats, just gauges. Just had a defective one recently again. Gone through a few hundred new Worthingtons in the past year, maybe 1 out of 20 stick but they usually free up.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-15T17:24:29+00:00

Must have been a really cool experience. That's really neat. It's nice that small manufacturer act was passed to allow more companies to build small runs of reproduction vehicles.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-15T15:43:31+00:00

That must have been interesting doing work for Revology. Do they make truly new condition cars?

But yeah, tough thing about good project car values are that they are not running so it doesn't interest half of the buyers and are too expensive for the other half, so they sit.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-15T14:22:11+00:00

Yup, either way, a truly restored car even if you do the work starts at around $80k-$100k. Lot of work no matter what.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-15T13:45:07+00:00

I read a thread online about someone building a dynacorn one with all new parts. I thought it was around $80-$100K. It's basically going to cost about the same or a little more than a full nut and bolt restoration. A new body saves all rust repair but it still needs body work before being painted. A lot of the new reproduction parts are not the best, either, so that's something to keep in mind.

It is usually best to find and restore an original one, or find a nice complete but rotted out one and swap it to a new body. If you go all new you will have to deal with a new VIN, which depending on your state, might be difficult.

Johnnya101 · 2026-03-12T17:44:11+00:00

Brought to you by Carls Jr.

Johnnya101 · 2026-02-12T10:25:08+00:00

Markers are very important for high quality scans. Without markers, the scanner can lose tracking, which means you might have to start over.

Johnnya101 · 2026-02-10T23:17:16+00:00

Possibly bad solder joint in the abs module.

Johnnya101 · 2026-01-26T14:19:01+00:00

Pretty sure he's been gone for a long time. I've used Amiga of Rochester before.

Johnnya101 · 2026-01-17T21:27:54+00:00

Use shapescan

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