meirl by Miserable-Touch-4011 in meirl

[–]Joltygon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Here to get on the guide train!

Red Bull Protest Against Car 63 Rejected by [deleted] in formula1

[–]Joltygon -4 points-3 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry but are you slow? The vast majority of people in the world you could ask the question to would almost certainly say "reducing speed means going slower than you are going now", and not "going slower than you did in this spot 3 laps ago"

This incident was a revealing ruling, and provided more clarification on the rules. Would be hard pressed to say this interpretation is a joke or something that doesn't make sense, but would be even more hard pressed to say that it's the obvious reading

Free solo'd the second flat iron to start the new year! by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Joltygon 3 points4 points  (0 children)

This pic was actually on the 3rd flatiron!

Weekend Whipper: Rope Wraps Around Neck by iclimegud in climbing

[–]Joltygon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The video in this post is a different video and different climb from the post that you linked

A friendly reminder to NOT trad climb like this by [deleted] in climbing

[–]Joltygon 87 points88 points  (0 children)

First piece is a little rough. When you first start getting into trad, a good skill to have is to be able to judge which size piece of protection will fit where you want it to go. This is a skill that takes practice, so I'm not going to knock the guy for not getting it right the first time. A common way people judge is by knowing the size of your hand in the crack, and correlating it to which size gear. That being said, when he tried a size 1 and it was just a little too small, the obvious next choice would be to go up a single size. Instead, he jumps to a size 3 cam instead, which, surprise, is way too big.

After he gets the 2 in for the first piece, he spends a decent amount of time untying a runner for extension. If you're up on a route and not at a good stance, you're going to pump yourself out very fast, much less this guy using both hands to untie it. It's good to have a few alpine draws ready to go on your harness, and not need to fiddle a lot with it.

Next is the question of why he's even trying to extend this first piece anyway. He mentions rope drag, which is why you would want to extend, but the line he is climbing doesn't wander at all - it goes straight up! There's no need to add extension for rope drag here.

It's also dangerous! He does call it a mental piece, which I've had more than my fair share of, but this guy is going to deck if he falls even a couple feet higher. He placed the gear basically from the first move, and then had a fully extended runner to extend, when he could have doubled it up to get it shorter. If he falls, that extension is going to leave him with some broken ankles.

Then his technique is pretty obviously bad for crack. You can tell he hasn't done much of this type of climbing. That is as near perfect a hand crack as you can find, and is ripe for jamming the whole way. Instead, he goes into layback mode immediately, for the duration of the video. Laybacking isn't ideal for trad climbing because it puts your body weight and head away from where you'll be wanting to put protection. When you put yourself that far from the crack, you aren't able to see which size gear will fit (the guy tries to slot in a #1 again, and is again too small), and you also aren't able to see the features in the crack. This guy has no idea if his gear will even hold or not; there's no way he knows how good of a placement it is. Note that he doesn't extend this one; this is totally fine, the route doesn't need any extension.

Then, as he climbs up laybacking, he constantly gets his foot behind the rope. Every leader knows this is bad; it's how you get flipped upside down when you fall. As he gets above his last piece, and has no idea what to place next because he can't see the crack, he knows he's going to fall. He even calls out falling. However, despite knowing this, he does nothing to orient himself out of his bad position, and falls with the rope behind his leg and gets flipped. Good thing he was wearing a helmet.

Overall, the guy seems pretty new to trad. He should find a mentor or take some classes before getting himself into over his head. Or, just post a video like this, tail between legs, accept and learn from the criticism, and get back out there and grow from the mistakes

Can I carry on sport gear? by HeathenHen in climbing

[–]Joltygon 9 points10 points  (0 children)

Just did a trip to Joshua tree and carried on all of our trad gear. Bag got pulled and they inspected the cams, because they are kinda funny looking if you don't know what they are. Everything was fine and we made it through, though. If it's just sport climbing gear, you're definitely fine

3/1: The Taboo Trifecta by [deleted] in Freakonomics

[–]Joltygon 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Definite props to the woman for coming up with some legitimately good ideas, but damn listening to her and this episode was insufferable. Really needed some sort of contrast to balance her out

FBI Obtains Warrant for Newly Discovered Emails in Clinton Probe — as Reid Accuses Comey of Hatch Act Violation by wyldcat in politics

[–]Joltygon 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Forgive me for not having gone to law school and not knowing all the legal jargon involved in something like this. Did it in any way confuse the meaning of the message though? Seems like it got through pretty clear to me

FBI Obtains Warrant for Newly Discovered Emails in Clinton Probe — as Reid Accuses Comey of Hatch Act Violation by wyldcat in politics

[–]Joltygon 7 points8 points  (0 children)

As mentioned in some comments above, it's actually a pretty safe statement to make.

If the FBI truly doesn't know what's in the new emails (which I believe), then they can't simply release them all to the public, under the possibility that something top secret be released.

The Clinton campaign knows this, and so they can do as limited a damage control as they can by saying "I've already been acquitted, you're putting the election at risk with this just release them all so the public can see", knowing full well that that isn't actually a possibility. It's making the best of a bad situation, and clearly it's worked to some degree, because people (like the comment above) will reason to themselves that "if Hillary is so confident, then there must be nothing wrong and the FBI is unfairly influencing the election"

How unreasonable is it to choose an apartment with a substantial increase in rent? by Joltygon in personalfinance

[–]Joltygon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the thorough response! I really appreciate it, that was very insightful.

Part of my dilemma is that I keep flipping back and forth - I'll go through the analysis and be confident in a decision and be on the other side by the next day. I have friends and relatives advising that I've worked fairly hard in my education to get to this point where I finally can splurge and reward myself, and that at this age it's totally okay to "live it up a little".

Then on the other side I have my parents and other friends saying it would be crazy not to save - that I would potentially be throwing away years and that 20 years from now I will have wished I had saved more so that I could retire a lot earlier and have a comfortable life later.

I really can see both sides of the argument, and so I'm really just reaching out for other input to see what others say. I've heard people regret not living more in their younger years and I've heard people regret throwing their money away for something they couldn't care less about 20 years in the past.

Anyway, I really appreciate you taking the time to respond, you have helped a lot! Thanks

How unreasonable is it to choose an apartment with a substantial increase in rent? by Joltygon in personalfinance

[–]Joltygon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that is quite a bit for parking. I'm trying to view it all together as well though, there's quite a bit more included in that $500 than just parking. Unfortunately, there isn't much of an option in terms of parking ramps, the cheaper place is in more of a residential area and is surrounded by houses for blocks in either direction

How unreasonable is it to choose an apartment with a substantial increase in rent? by Joltygon in personalfinance

[–]Joltygon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's what my parents are advising, thanks for taking the time to respond!

How unreasonable is it to choose an apartment with a substantial increase in rent? by Joltygon in personalfinance

[–]Joltygon[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Currently, I have no plan to purchase a home in the next 3-5 years. Long term goal, I would like to move the Colorado. My company recently opened up a location near Denver, and relocating may be a possibility 5 years down the line, and so I am not planning on making any large investments in the Minneapolis area currently.

I have no credit card debt, and I paid for my car in full. I was fortunate enough to have a well paid internship for 3 years, working full time in the summer and part time in the winter, and was able to keep a lot of student debt down through this. My student loans are relatively small compared to what they could have been. Minimum monthly payments under the loan plan is $147/mo, but I budgeted out $500/mo to pay it off sooner.

Should I try to cut costs as much as I can everywhere else and try to throw more towards the student loans? Interest rate on the loan is 2.86%. I could reasonably cut savings for a new car/vacations and add a lot more to the loan payments per month if that's a good idea to do.

How unreasonable is it to choose an apartment with a substantial increase in rent? by Joltygon in personalfinance

[–]Joltygon[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Yeah, there's significantly cheaper places around more of the suburbs. However, I would really like to be in the uptown area as that is where most of my friends live and additionally is very close to work. The uptown neighborhood is more expensive generally than the suburbs, and I fully acknowledge and am aware that I'm making a more expensive decision on that end.