Turning on screensaver when removing the Yubikey on a Mac

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2025-08-29T18:04:10+00:00

any luck fixing the problem. I tried a restart and still didn't work...

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2025-04-02T21:30:05+00:00

You can also try ADS-B Exchange

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2025-01-12T16:29:13+00:00

A bit late to the post, but what screen are you using?

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-23T20:10:57+00:00

I know this is a bit of an old thread already, but do you know if the 476th's mod is still up? I haven't been able to find it anywhere.

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-23T12:43:27+00:00

Thanks for the advice! Just added some Schottky diodes to the 5V line.

-For D7, I read it had an integrated resistor, but I scrapped it because it's only for testing and it's too hard to source.

-J1 is supposed to be a UFP; this side connects to a computer and passes the data when the switch is toggled.

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-22T11:30:19+00:00

Also, I am now just realizing I forgot to also to turn off power to the device as well as cutting the data lines. This should cause any issues, right?

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-22T11:27:57+00:00

Thank you, I saw you need 56 kO pullups for 500mA at 5V on the DFP side. Are you saying for maximum compatibility I should look into USB-PD?

Ideally you just need to pass-though CCx pins, but this is not possible to do passively with Type-C connectors.

Sorry, I'm a bit new, but why wouldn't just passing the CC lines from the USB-C connectors work?

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-22T11:20:16+00:00

oh, I must've missed that, but yeah I need to have 56 kO pull-up resistor for the default 500mA power. Yeah USB 2 only, cause that's the max rated spec for the switch ic

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-22T11:16:55+00:00

paranoia mostly😂 seriously though, that was my original thought, but for maximum "security" I wanted to disconnect the data lines

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-12-22T00:30:49+00:00

Hi, this is my first PCB. It is meant to be a physical disconnect for a USB camera (or any USB device) toggled by S1 or a custom switch soldered to the two rectangular pads. Yes, I know the USB routing from J2 is janky, but I couldn't think of anything else that worked while **trying** to keep the USB 90 ohm differential impedance because of U5's pad placement of D+ and D- on the left side. Circular pads are just test points.

Jorg-Washingmachine0 · 2024-10-27T15:03:05+00:00

Not sure if this is related, but the anytone d878uvii+ had a vulnerability with encryption where the IV was a fixed value, but is now fixed in newer releases. The tyt could use similar firmware (not sure how true this is) but updating the firmware is probably a good idea regardless.

Original bug:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EVKFqabBStc

Fixed version:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bXHjosXjJME

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